DIY Painting Tips

[ducpainter]

Thanks.  I  didn't plan to sand through the original paint, just 600 or 800 wet sanding on the whole thing.  It's in fairly good shape.  Should I still use a primer or just go straight to the color coat?

Scott

I'd go straight to color.

You won't have any trouble covering with that color, and the primer you can buy in rattle cans isn't going to offer any advantage.

I'd stick with 600. The 800 is a bit too fine for adhesion of an enamel.

DP, I understand your reasoning as a pro for not using rattle cans, for us amateurs we'd usually have to buy a minimum one quart plus catalyst/hardener of "real" paint for a small job like one fender and the $$ can add up real fast.  Then we end up with a whole shelf full of partly used paint cans that we'll never use.  I have pictures.

I understand. I have a whole cabinet full of paint that matched one bike. Plus if you saw the price of a pint of PPG red paint today you'd have a coronary.

[scott_araujo]

Wow!  This job gets easier with every question!  DP, if I concentrate really hard will the fender just turn black without me even painting it?

Scott

[ducpainter]

Wow!  This job gets easier with every question!  DP, if I concentrate really hard will the fender just turn black without me even painting it?

Scott

No.

[scott_araujo]

Spoil-sport

[804monster]

DP, I understand your reasoning as a pro for not using rattle cans, for us amateurs we'd usually have to buy a minimum one quart plus catalyst/hardener of "real" paint for a small job like one fender and the $$ can add up real fast. 

I hope other people realize this and will stop complaining about the price quoted when they take it to a professional.

[Big Troubled Bear]

+1 on that piece of information

[scott_araujo]

The short story: DupliColor Truck, Van, & SUV universal black T090 plus Krylon flat clear (not satin) is about a 95% match for stock Ducati Dark black paint.

I couldn't find GM 7179 in stock anywhere.  Being lazy and impatient I bought some DupliColor Truck, Van and SUV 'Universal Black', T090.  This was listed on TOB as another close match.  It was way too shiny which also made it way too sparkly so I tired some Krylon satin clear.  That was still too shiny.  The Krylon flat clear was perfect.

Once the clear went on and dried the match was really pretty close.  The black is a little darker, it's a little more sparkly, and just a little more gold at certain angles.  I was going to try to take some pictures but honestly it's so close I don't think you'd be able to see it.  Overall I was really impressed and pleasantly surprised once I bolted it on and wheeled it into the sun.  If the finish holds up I don't think anyone would ever notice, maybe not even if I pointed it out.

DP,  thanks for the tips.  I feel almost foolish for not doing this sooner.  I had nightmares of adhesion promoter and bad color matches.  600 grit sand and lots of thin coats made it an afternoon project.

Scott

[Tsugaro]

Howdy.

Been stalking this and "that other" forum for a few weeks now, mainly looking for a bike.

I purchased a '98 M900 last week, and freaking love it!



Anyway, to the paint topic.

The only downside is some acid damage to the frame and engine cover on the one side of the bike:



Looking for some possible options. (Sorry about the IZ_ picture)

[ducpainter]

Howdy.

Been stalking this and "that other" forum for a few weeks now, mainly looking for a bike.

I purchased a '98 M900 last week, and freaking love it!



Anyway, to the paint topic.

The only downside is some acid damage to the frame and engine cover on the one side of the bike:



Looking for some possible options. (Sorry about the IZ_ picture)

I've never had any luck matching the Ducati engine paint or that frame color. Color-rite used to offer a formula for the gold frames, but it isn't listed anymore .

I'd paint the side covers low gloss black and paint/powder the frame when things needed to come apart.

[Tsugaro]

I wasn't sure if you had any tips for doing some quick touch up on it.

I may just leave it as is until I really want to repaint the engine. When I am ready to do that; I would like to do a black-out on it. As matte finish as I can get without too much trouble.

I do have access to a spraying setup of my grandfather's (he restores old farm tractors), but I have no idea what he uses.

Not horribly worried about the frame for the moment. But I would eventually like to make that black sometime also.

[red baron]

I've never had any luck matching the Ducati engine paint or that frame color. Color-rite used to offer a formula for the gold frames, but it isn't listed anymore .

I'd paint the side covers low gloss black and paint/powder the frame when things needed to come apart.

if'n ya got any left make me a sample and the lab can match it.

[Mash]

Nate,

I've got plans to do a little carbon fiber skinning of a few parts, and I need some advice on clear coat.  Assuming I can get a nice smooth finish in the epoxy, what type of clear coat should I use for a glossy finish? I'm at the mercy of whatever comes in a spray can.  Enamel? Lacquer?  Poly?

[ducpainter]

Nate,

I've got plans to do a little carbon fiber skinning of a few parts, and I need some advice on clear coat.  Assuming I can get a nice smooth finish in the epoxy, what type of clear coat should I use for a glossy finish? I'm at the mercy of whatever comes in a spray can.  Enamel? Lacquer?  Poly?

If you're talking about a gas tank, I'd actually choose lacquer. Gas won't soften it quite as badly as enamel. It will stain it. You will have to buff it to get the shine, and you'll have to keep it waxed.

Poly? If you mean polyurethane the stuff I use that's called polyurethane is great. I have no experience with polyurethane in a rattle can.

If there is no gas tank involved it doesn't really matter.

[mojo]

RM makes a urethane 2k clearcoat in their Aero Max line.  I think it's a little under $40 a can, but it's a high quality, hardened clear.

[Mash]

If you're talking about a gas tank, I'd actually choose lacquer. Gas won't soften it quite as badly as enamel. It will stain it. You will have to buff it to get the shine, and you'll have to keep it waxed.

Poly? If you mean polyurethane the stuff I use that's called polyurethane is great. I have no experience with polyurethane in a rattle can.

If there is no gas tank involved it doesn't really matter.

I'm not doing a gas tank, just some little things like heel guards, heat shields, etc.  I could just get some carbon parts, but I want to cover the metal pieces I have to keep the strength and rigidity.  I know I won't be getting any weight savings, but I'm not really concerned about that.  I just want a unique look. 

yeah, polyurethane is what I was referring to.  I've used it on wood projects, but never on the bike.  I think I'll go with the lacquer, build up a few thin coats and buff it out.  Thanks, Nate.

Dan