DIY Painting Tips

[jamanta]

hey ducpainter, thanks for all the tips.

i know this has been asked before and i got lost with all the other replies and posts... i want to paint my belt covers black (semi-gloss). i know i have to clean it nicely with something like dish detergent and scuff it with 400+ grit sandpaper, wash it again and dry it.

what would you recommend in terms of paint? bbq paint? hi-temp engine paint? i don't know how hot those covers get but i would suspect something under 150 degrees F.

would you recommend priming it with plastic primer or something like duplicolor primer? i have painted a fender with plastic primer and plastic paint and it came out perfect but there's no heat on the fender will primer hold ok with the heat?

my other question is about the wheels. my wheels are white and i want them black. which route would you recommend? i know that powdercoating would be ideal, but i would like something more affordable as i would have to remove the tires and valves off the wheel, have it powdercoated and then have a shop re-assamble the wheel, valves have it balanced, etc since i don't have those kind of tools. i can get the wheels off and on the bike easy but have notools to remove the tires and valves from the wheel.

do you think that painting with duplicolor wheel paint and primer would work fine? how resistant are those paints? and lastly, when the time to change the tire comes, will the tire removal machine damage the paint around the lips?

thanks so much!

[ducpainter]

hey ducpainter, thanks for all the tips.

i know this has been asked before and i got lost with all the other replies and posts... i want to paint my belt covers black (semi-gloss). i know i have to clean it nicely with something like dish detergent and scuff it with 400+ grit sandpaper, wash it again and dry it.

what would you recommend in terms of paint? bbq paint? hi-temp engine paint? i don't know how hot those covers get but i would suspect something under 150 degrees F.

would you recommend priming it with plastic primer or something like duplicolor primer? i have painted a fender with plastic primer and plastic paint and it came out perfect but there's no heat on the fender will primer hold ok with the heat?

my other question is about the wheels. my wheels are white and i want them black. which route would you recommend? i know that powdercoating would be ideal, but i would like something more affordable as i would have to remove the tires and valves off the wheel, have it powdercoated and then have a shop re-assamble the wheel, valves have it balanced, etc since i don't have those kind of tools. i can get the wheels off and on the bike easy but have notools to remove the tires and valves from the wheel.

do you think that painting with duplicolor wheel paint and primer would work fine? how resistant are those paints? and lastly, when the time to change the tire comes, will the tire removal machine damage the paint around the lips?

thanks so much!

Clean...scotchbrite...clean...

and use krylon fusion.
It will stick

You can put any krylon color/gloss level over it if it's not the look you want.

I wouldn't do the wheels with the tire mounted...

it's a PITA.

I'm not familiar with Duplicolor wheel paint and the prep they recommend.

I can't answer your question other than saying I wouldn't  do it that way.

[Gimpy]

More questions.  What would you use a high build primer for?  Would you recommend it?  Assuming I'm am going to use PPG paint of some kind, would I need a PPG finishing primer/sealer over any kind of high build coats?
Thanks very much in advance

[ducpainter]

More questions.  What would you use a high build primer for?  Would you recommend it?  Assuming I'm am going to use PPG paint of some kind, would I need a PPG finishing primer/sealer over any kind of high build coats?
Thanks very much in advance

I use a high build primer for surfacing over filler or filling feathered edges from chips etc.

The paint manufacturers will tell you to use a system. There was a time when the different companies made such different products that you couldn't be sure one would work with another.

Now, they seem to be more compatible. I don't necessarily use PPG sealers under PPG color, and I don't use PPG clear. I do always use one manufacturers additives like hardener. You can't use say PPG clear and DuPont hardener in it. That would be a recipe for disaster.

Whatever brand you use, use a sealer. It will give better adhesion, and allow you to use less paint to cover.

[Gimpy]

Cool that helps a lot.  I prefer your common sense answers rather than the very definite, non-explained answers I get at my local paint store.  Even if it does mean I have to buy another can of sealer.  

I don't suppose you would care to call the one year shelf life of unopened cans of primer/paint, a myth would you? I have a can of finish primer, which I assume is the same as a sealer primer, that has been kickin' around on my shelf for over 2 years.  I haven't added the catalyst, so common sense says it might be good, but I'm no chemist.  Painting one bike a year hasn't exactly stacked on the levels of experience.  Have you ever tried using something so old? 

Just trying to save a buddy of mine money and use stuff I already have laying around.  I'm sure its no good, but it can't hurt to ask.   

Thanks again (in advance...again)

[ducpainter]

In the paint stores defense, they can't tell you anything but manufacturer recs due to liability.

It really depends on the storage conditions.

If it hasn't been subjected to freezing temps I'd probably try it on a test panel to make sure it didn't 'seed'..(tiny dust like specks that develop on the surface after drying).

If it seems OK and you're on a budget go for it.

I'd be hesitant myself just because I'd have to redo the job if something went wrong and it wouldn't be good for my reputation,

This might be one of those circumstances where cheap is expensive and expensive is cheap...if you get my meaning.

[eesnas]

My friend, hope you can field an easy one here, my big issue is I ran out of paint on my final coat of some high temp stuff...

I am painting pipes and headers, so far coming out solid, I will be baking them to cure after final coat. Instructions on the paint say apply 3 coats 10 minutes apart, the first two coats thin then the third wet, and make sure to do the last within one hour of the first, additional coats after that should allow aforementioned coats 7 days to cure. So I was on my 3rd coat and ran out of paint I tried to buy more in the morning but everywhere was out of stock and I have heard good things about the VHT Flameproof brand so I did not want to switch, when I ran out of paint all the stores were closed so I am stuck waiting a week either way, no biggie.

So my basic question, I ran out of paint on the 3rd coat but I am going to wait 7 days as the instructions recommend and then apply that last coat to the parts I ran out on, will that give me the same durability and finish as doing all at the same time? Should I scuff them a bit with 600 next week before I spray again? Obviously I am not going to strip and start from scratch but the plan is to finish up that last coat next week and then just do a 4th light coat to even them all off, then after 3 hours the instructions say I can start baking. My goal was to do everything "by the book" and I was meticulous about all my steps except for having enough paint, now I just want to make sure I don't ruin my efforts by making a mistake... Please let me know if there are any things I should know or if there are any glaring flaws in my plan, thanks!


Edit: also wondering if I should use this clear over the flat black to increase durability, I think this is a 'flat clear': http://www.cacustomcoatings.com/vhtclflsfi.html

[ducpainter]

My friend, hope you can field an easy one here, my big issue is I ran out of paint on my final coat of some high temp stuff...

I am painting pipes and headers, so far coming out solid, I will be baking them to cure after final coat. Instructions on the paint say apply 3 coats 10 minutes apart, the first two coats thin then the third wet, and make sure to do the last within one hour of the first, additional coats after that should allow aforementioned coats 7 days to cure. So I was on my 3rd coat and ran out of paint I tried to buy more in the morning but everywhere was out of stock and I have heard good things about the VHT Flameproof brand so I did not want to switch, when I ran out of paint all the stores were closed so I am stuck waiting a week either way, no biggie.

So my basic question, I ran out of paint on the 3rd coat but I am going to wait 7 days as the instructions recommend and then apply that last coat to the parts I ran out on, will that give me the same durability and finish as doing all at the same time? Should I scuff them a bit with 600 next week before I spray again? Obviously I am not going to strip and start from scratch but the plan is to finish up that last coat next week and then just do a 4th light coat to even them all off, then after 3 hours the instructions say I can start baking. My goal was to do everything "by the book" and I was meticulous about all my steps except for having enough paint, now I just want to make sure I don't ruin my efforts by making a mistake... Please let me know if there are any things I should know or if there are any glaring flaws in my plan, thanks!


Edit: also wondering if I should use this clear over the flat black to increase durability, I think this is a 'flat clear': http://www.cacustomcoatings.com/vhtclflsfi.html

You must wait the seven days before recoating. It will lift otherwise.

You must scuff the applied paint. I would use 400 dry or a red scotch brite. The paint may be gummy as it requires heat to fully harden.

I would apply the final coat as a full wet coat. Light coats will have texture. I wouldn't bother with the clear, but if you use that as your final wet coat it shouldn't do any harm.

[eesnas]

You must wait the seven days before recoating. It will lift otherwise.

You must scuff the applied paint. I would use 400 dry or a red scotch brite. The paint may be gummy as it requires heat to fully harden.

I would apply the final coat as a full wet coat. Light coats will have texture. I wouldn't bother with the clear, but if you use that as your final wet coat it shouldn't do any harm.

Thanks for the advice... Just a start to my day here, I have more of the black paint but I did not buy any clear. The gummy thing is no joke, these look beautiful but I can scratch it with a fingernail and my fingers leave prints on them, even after the 7 days. I am adding more coats today but I wanted to test out what was there. I went to the store to buy the clear but they didn't have it, I think my new strategy is going to be paint the last coats then cook these tonight, if the paint still seems soft after cooking I will do a coat of the clear in 7 days. Hopefully the clear isn't needed though, we'll see...

[eesnas]

Ok... the pipes are cooking, so far so good. Seems like the instructions say for additional coats wait 7 days, which I did, but then it seems   they can be cooked after 3 hours or "ready to handle" drying time... It's a bit confusing because the 'can be handled' and 'recoat' dry times are drastically different.  hoping this works out!!!

[ducpainter]

Re-coat and bake times are different.

You did it right.

[eesnas]

Hey so it came out pretty good, I might do a little touching up in a few weeks but overall I am fine with it... thanks for the help.

I only really looked at it in the dark though so my opinion may change later 

As a side note, wow those headers were a pain to get straight and back on correctly, from now on I am just going to ride it.

[WTSDS]

Awhile back I did my oil cooler with pot belly kettle paint, sloshed and brushed on, one coat. Came up well, and as expected, no hassles with heat. It's not tough, but a touch-up only takes seconds, the stuff is solvent based, dries almost instantly and blends in to the old invisibly.

Tried it on a belt cover, looked awful.

Bought a tin of black semi-gloss enamel, plain and simple interior house paint. One coat brushed on. The clutch and belt covers look really great, and are an excellent match for the overall colour scheme of the 2000 Dark. No effect from heat after several rides.

For the technical the covers were degreased, scrubbed and Scotchbrighted in detergent suds, dried and painted by brush, air dried. No primer, no sealer, no undercoat.
   


Next will be the swingarm and the muffler carriers, but I'm not so sure whether or not to do the whole motor. The alternator cover is crying out to be blackened and the sump too, then the crankcase wont look right...........

 I realize enamel house paint won't cut the mustard on the heads or barrels so hi-temp would be required but where do ya stop ! !

Anyone got links to pics of totally blackerated Monstas ?

[JasonV]

Hey Ducpainter, thanks for the tips.

For the heatguard parts, what kind of flat black paint should I use?  Would normal spray paint due the trick?  Should I lightly sand the parts first?

[ducpainter]

Hey Ducpainter, thanks for the tips.

For the heatguard parts, what kind of flat black paint should I use?  Would normal spray paint due the trick?  Should I lightly sand the parts first?

I use catalyzed urethane for those. I would guess that regular rattle can stuff would work. Use recommended prep procedures for sanding. Usually 400 dry/600 wet. With rattle can enamels you can usually go a little coarser...320 dry/400 wet.