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Author Topic: DIY Painting Tips  (Read 412627 times)
ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #435 on: April 21, 2010, 02:10:47 AM »

I dug this up because there have been a bunch of threads around the board about using epoxy paint on various items.

Epoxy is great stuff, and I use it on all bare metal and often as a base for surfacers.

It sprays well, sticks to the surface like crazy,and also 'most' anything you put over it sticks to it.

Epoxy is not the best choice as a topcoat that is exposed to the elements however.

It is the reason carbon fiber looks like junk after a year or so if not cleared with a UV protective clear...

so if you want your hard work to hold up in the elements...

pick a different product as a topcoat.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2010, 02:19:23 AM by ducpainter » Logged

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« Reply #436 on: April 21, 2010, 04:53:16 AM »

I dug this up because there have been a bunch of threads around the board about using epoxy paint on various items.

Epoxy is great stuff, and I use it on all bare metal and often as a base for surfacers.

It sprays well, sticks to the surface like crazy,and also 'most' anything you put over it sticks to it.

Epoxy is not the best choice as a topcoat that is exposed to the elements however.

It is the reason carbon fiber looks like junk after a year or so if not cleared with a UV protective clear...

so if you want your hard work to hold up in the elements...

pick a different product as a topcoat.


Speaking of carbon fiber, what do you think the best way to paint my carbon fiber belt covers is? what should I use? I'd like to paint it flat black, or as flat as it can be with a clear coat.
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ducpainter
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« Reply #437 on: April 22, 2010, 02:40:59 AM »


Speaking of carbon fiber, what do you think the best way to paint my carbon fiber belt covers is? what should I use? I'd like to paint it flat black, or as flat as it can be with a clear coat.
Do you have access to professional spray equipment?
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« Reply #438 on: April 22, 2010, 07:01:23 AM »

Yea but it would cost me. I'll arrange it if needed though
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« Reply #439 on: April 22, 2010, 03:19:33 PM »

Quote
Epoxy is great stuff, and I use it on all bare metal and often as a base for surfacers.

It sprays well, sticks to the surface like crazy,and also 'most' anything you put over it sticks to it.
Also, it provides some of the best corrosion protection you can buy.
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ducpainter
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« Reply #440 on: April 22, 2010, 05:15:58 PM »

Also, it provides some of the best corrosion protection you can buy.
You betcha. waytogo Grin
Yea but it would cost me. I'll arrange it if needed though
If you want what I would consider a 'good' job...

Sand with 400...

prime with an epoxy and then wet on wet spray with a urethane topcoat.

You can modify the gloss as necessary with whatever manufacturers product you're using
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« Reply #441 on: April 23, 2010, 07:15:26 AM »

Ducpainter,
First of all, thanks for allowing us to peek into your well of experience and expertise. 

Based on 30 pages of Q&A, I think I've formulated how to address my issue but I thought I'd ask since I don't think my situation has been directly represented. 

I'm giving a 2007 Silver S2R1000 a second lease on life after falling victim of being parted out by the previous owner.  The previous owner peeled off all the fuel tank stripes leaving sharp clear coat edges and exposing "virgin" basecoat paint where the stripes used to be.  Otherwise the tank is in great condition with only superficial storage scuffs in the clear coat. 

What is the best way to bring the tank back to stock finish?  I'm assuming these steps:
- Degrease/clean
- Fair clearcoat edges and sand clearcoat
- Clean and Tack
- Apply Factory black strip
- Clear entire tank

Can you provide any advice if this is the proper steps and what paper grit and clearcoat type to use (catalyzed urethane?)?

Thanks.
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ducpainter
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« Reply #442 on: April 23, 2010, 01:35:48 PM »

Ducpainter,
First of all, thanks for allowing us to peek into your well of experience and expertise. 

Based on 30 pages of Q&A, I think I've formulated how to address my issue but I thought I'd ask since I don't think my situation has been directly represented. 

I'm giving a 2007 Silver S2R1000 a second lease on life after falling victim of being parted out by the previous owner.  The previous owner peeled off all the fuel tank stripes leaving sharp clear coat edges and exposing "virgin" basecoat paint where the stripes used to be.  Otherwise the tank is in great condition with only superficial storage scuffs in the clear coat. 

What is the best way to bring the tank back to stock finish?  I'm assuming these steps:
- Degrease/clean
- Fair clearcoat edges and sand clearcoat
- Clean and Tack
- Apply Factory black strip
- Clear entire tank

Can you provide any advice if this is the proper steps and what paper grit and clearcoat type to use (catalyzed urethane?)?

Thanks.

You're close...

Unfortunately I've never had any luck feathering back the clear without damaging the base coat...particularly a metallic.

The fastest and easiest way is to bite the bullet and plan on spot priming and painting the area.

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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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« Reply #443 on: April 27, 2010, 08:13:51 AM »

DP, I plan on Powder coating several parts on my bike. Many of them are anodized aluminium. What do I need to do to the parts for prep? Is it as simple as washing the parts? Do I have to chemicly remove the anodizing first? I will strip all of the painted parts.  I have never used powder before. Is it similar to spraying paint? Thank you.
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ducpainter
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« Reply #444 on: April 27, 2010, 01:19:21 PM »

DP, I plan on Powder coating several parts on my bike. Many of them are anodized aluminium. What do I need to do to the parts for prep? Is it as simple as washing the parts? Do I have to chemicly remove the anodizing first? I will strip all of the painted parts.  I have never used powder before. Is it similar to spraying paint? Thank you.
I have to be honest. I'm not a powder coater.

If I was painting an anodized part I would sand/scotchbrite, epoxy prime, and urethane topcoat. That is an accepted process for Mil/Aerospace. Those processes address the issue of corrosion. Powder processes don't as there is no primer or coating other than the topcoat.

If powder will stick to anodizing I'd do the same thing, but I don't know if it will.
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 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
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« Reply #445 on: April 27, 2010, 02:43:23 PM »

Thank you.
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« Reply #446 on: April 27, 2010, 03:55:57 PM »

hey DP,

got my bike finished, sorry no pics yet, heavens have opened the rainy season big time here; so, in accordance to riding in the rain, I washed my bike with Coral Blue or something like that motorcycle washing liquid[bottle cracked so I refilled another] and suddenly all flat black parts[front fender, side covers, rear fender and beer tray] are glossy...Cleaned the tank with a 100% towel of mine, no water no soap, still flat black...
what happened?
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ducpainter
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« Reply #447 on: April 28, 2010, 01:09:02 AM »

hey DP,

got my bike finished, sorry no pics yet, heavens have opened the rainy season big time here; so, in accordance to riding in the rain, I washed my bike with Coral Blue or something like that motorcycle washing liquid[bottle cracked so I refilled another] and suddenly all flat black parts[front fender, side covers, rear fender and beer tray] are glossy...Cleaned the tank with a 100% towel of mine, no water no soap, still flat black...
what happened?
The blue coral had wax in it. Most commercial wash products do.

Get some wax and grease remover from the shop and wipe the parts down. If they're fresh wait a while.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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« Reply #448 on: April 28, 2010, 02:09:40 PM »

The blue coral had wax in it. Most commercial wash products do.

Get some wax and grease remover from the shop and wipe the parts down. If they're fresh wait a while.

Like Formula 89? Or less strong?
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Carlos
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Ducati is the pretty girl that can't walk in heels without stumbling. I still love her.
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #449 on: April 28, 2010, 02:19:31 PM »

Like Formula 89? Or less strong?
Don't know that product.

I'm thinking like PPG DX330 or DuPont 3939 or DuPont Prep-Sol.

Your parts have been painted for a while. None of those products should hurt it if used according to instructions.

If the parts are less than 30 days old wait.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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