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Author Topic: Adjusting Suspension  (Read 3096 times)
caffeinejunkee
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'07 M695--sold; red '96 900SS CR; '04 Busa--sold


« Reply #15 on: September 21, 2009, 05:29:45 PM »

It looks like about a 30lb weight difference. The way you describe it, it definitely seems much "softer" for you than it was for me.

It looks like you're on the right track by starting with working with what you have as far as equipment. I know that John had a 695 before his s2r1k and is up around your size. Maybe he'll chime in. 

Just out of curiosity, what's the bike you are using for comparison?
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junior varsity
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GT1k, 99 M900(V), 98 M900(W), 00 M900S, 02 748E/R


« Reply #16 on: September 21, 2009, 05:45:54 PM »

You need to set the sag. This really should be mandatory for dealers to include for free before letting a person leave with a new bike, because its really that important. If adjusting the preload can't get you in the appropriate sag range, then its time to respring. People that mess with the valve adjustments to compensate for too weak springs are simply robbing Peter to pay Paul.

If your bike is "squishy" or feels a bit like it wallows in the turns, its because your bike is essentially 'sinking' in the suspension more than it should. You are outside the 'optimum' working range for your suspenders. (that could be taken out of context).

to give you some idea of the difference that can be had, prior to messing with the suspension on my bike (i'm a large mammal), there were turns back home that gave me an adrenaline rush at the posted speed limit. After adjustment, I'd still ride at the adrenaline rush pace, but look down to find I was going much faster, but my sense of speed was no different. Confidence inspiring, really.

The fork 'change' is far too expensive to recommend. Well, buying 'new' forks, that is. Buying second hand sbk forks isn't too bad. The shock and fork both should be adjusted to make sure that when you are on the bike, it will be in the optimum range to absorb bumps and gaps, and respond to braking/throttle.

I have done the RaceTech valve and spring to my front end. Works "well"

I have an Ohlins 68mm Damper mounted under my lower triple laterally using a billet mount from Motowheels. Works 'very well' (though Stuart hates the location and thinks if I brake like a maniac that it could push into the fender... though its never touched, so he's decided he is just being a risk-adverse mechanic) I would like to replace it with a damper with a longer stroke, since the stroke of this damper doesn't quite cover stop-to-stop.

I have a Penske 8983 with remote reservoir. It works fantastically. I opted for a couple plus features, like a torrington bearing, adjustible preload collars, etc as well when I got it so that adjusting the preload would be easier. It was this or the Ohlins and I called around and talked to several shops. Those that sold only Ohlins told me everything else was crap. Those that sold multiple brands talked about pluses and minuses of each. I went with Traxxion Dynamics who sold both Ohlins and Penske and recommended the Penske (for me).

So I put some money into the suspension, but not a ton really. The biggest difference came from the correct spring #'s, preload adjustments to set the sag, and lastly: making sure all the important bolts were torqued to the correct number (motor mount bolts, suspension arc, etc) - since my bike has a few years and a few miles on it.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2009, 05:47:57 PM by ato memphis » Logged

fastwin
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« Reply #17 on: September 21, 2009, 05:56:29 PM »

Good informative reply. waytogo Do all my Ohlins stuff through Dan Kyle. Great guy and a God of suspension info. Whoever you find that leads you to the light of suspension heaven is well worth the trip and money. I have thrown a s#@t load of money at engine crap, exhausts, etc. on my bikes and honestly none of it has ever equaled $$ spent on good tires and suspension. Ever. Any person who knows anything will back that up. waytogo
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Smokeater
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« Reply #18 on: September 21, 2009, 06:38:45 PM »

Again thank you for all of the replies.  The bike I used for comparison was a yamaha FZ1.  I'm not knocking the bike at all, I just wanted to find the optimum set up for me. 
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Samsonite
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« Reply #19 on: September 21, 2009, 06:56:19 PM »

thats like comparing a Honda Civic to a BMW M3.......

The FZ1 shares many parts with the R1.... It also comes with a fully adjustable suspension and a very rigid frame and swingarm

The 695 (like the Civic) is a fun, sporty, economical motocycle....  The FZ1 is a monster.....  (different than a "Monster")

I don't know what year the FZ1 was, so I just picked a review from 2006

"The stiffer chassis bolts to an inverted fork with an uncommon damping adjustment system that's been used in the racing world. One fork leg controls the rebound damping and the other controls compression damping. Yamaha says if it works on Valentino Rossi's M1 MotoGP bike, it'll work on your FZ1, too, and who am I to argue? It does have the benefit of keeping adjustments simple.

The other change Yamaha made to inject some more sport into the FZ1 is the new engine, taken straight from the YZF-R1 sportbike with only a few modifications. Changes to the R1 engine were limited mostly to different cam profiles and valve timing to increase low- and mid-range power, and a heavier crankshaft."


« Last Edit: September 21, 2009, 07:05:06 PM by Samsonite » Logged

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caffeinejunkee
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'07 M695--sold; red '96 900SS CR; '04 Busa--sold


« Reply #20 on: September 26, 2009, 08:54:04 AM »

I had a talk with Randy and looks like I'll be heading up to Motopia friday.

How'd it go?
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