Battery question YTZ7S

[pennyrobber]

If you used crimp connectors, you might no be getting good contact with the wire inside. The best thing would be to use non-crimp ends and solder them on. I haven't had any issues with starting (fuel injected 992cc) and in fact, the bike starts after kicking over just once.

[RB]

My buddy has Burndy crimp and connectors, if that doesn't work i will solder those puppies

Thanks

[Monsterlover]

I have the same battery on a 900ss (ie) and have not yet upgraded the cables.

I have the same starting symptoms you do.

Cranks slow then stops.

Let off the starter and try again.

It usually will start, but I always wonder if im going to end up with a drained battery first.

[junior varsity]

you guys need some:

[Monsterlover]

[RB]

Update:
Complete 6-gauge wire upgrade(both positive and negative) crimped using Burndy ends.
Bike starts more consistently now, fires up quick....but here's the catch....
If the bike doesn't start on the first crank, i have had to press the starter again, and sometimes it seems like the compression stroke is too much for it to kick past, so pop it in gear and roll forward to move the crank.....boom, she starts.
At this point i am really on the fence as to whether this was such a hot idea to shave 3lbs. On the plus side i have upgraded the wiring sooner then getting my new harness done.
Oh, almost forgot, when she is warm starting is the same as factory battery.

[pennyrobber]

As an aside, I have been putting her on the tender at night. The battery gets to float mode pretty quickly but will almost always take a bit of charge.

Sorry to hear about the continuing issues though.

[RB]

Update.....
Returning the battery, going back to the stocker YT12B-BS, due to the problem that she doesn't start reliably, even after upgrading the wires as suggested.

RB

[Monsterlover]

I think I may do the same.  I don't think this tiny thing has enough umph to make for reliable starting.

[battlecry]

Been using the YTZ7S on my M800S since 11/04.  Finally changed it this year with another 7S.  My first one is still working but I was afraid it would finally die on me.  Changed out the ground and hot cabling to the starter and solenoid with 4 gauge marine cabling and installed a headlight gizmo like this fellow:

http://home.comcast.net/~mmullen38/headlightgizmo.html

Battery lives with a Yuasa battery tender. 

Failed to start me once, in a cold rain, when my power commander USB crapped out on me.  Disconnected the PC from the injectors (PITA to do in the field) and by that time everything had cooled down enough the residual charge in the battery got it started and limped home.

Sorry to hear of your problems.  Maybe it really is marginal on the bigger engines. 

[RB]

i was actually unplugging my headlight when she would fail to start, because i thought every little bit would help, but no go.
thanks for everyone's help on this matter.
RB

[DarkMonster620]

Will the ground/positive wires be a good upgrade on a 2005 M620?

[RB]

Will the ground/positive wires be a good upgrade on a 2005 M620?

Yes, but i can't say why(not educted enough in that department) but i read lots of threads here that said the positive wire to the starter and solenoid would benefit from a larger gauge. The ground side i upgraded also.

[bing]

I have had a YTZ-7S on my 2000 900IE for about three years now.  Never failed to start and even in cold weather works well.  I think a lot of the starting issues can be down to other things including earthing and from memory there were some people re-wiring their starter motors.  The little battery has 130CCA and the YB16 has 160CCA so there isn't a big difference.  The YTZ-7S is THE dollar per pound weigh mod!