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Author Topic: reroute starboard oil cooler line  (Read 12686 times)
Mojo S2R
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« Reply #30 on: January 25, 2009, 02:41:44 PM »

Anybody who's swapped out that hose with the Hypermotard hose - could you possibly provide the Part # and curious as to the price too.  Thanks.
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patorojo
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« Reply #31 on: March 31, 2009, 08:31:39 PM »

One last thread revival.  I finally got around to rerouting the starter cable and oil temp sender.  In short, finding the all the parts and pieces was the biggest PITA.  Finally found cable and terminals for the starter cable at a marine supply and the the oil temp sender cable, connector, heat shrink and cable sleeve at about 5 different stores.

For the frame sticker fashion police, it's gone now  Grin

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Arne Berger
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« Reply #32 on: April 01, 2009, 03:34:56 AM »

Looks great!!
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bmonty72
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« Reply #33 on: April 01, 2009, 07:47:13 AM »

IMHO they should come from the factory..JUST LIKE THAT.  That sexy trellis frame is just begging to be more naked, not hidden under a jumble of wires and cables!!!  Very Nice Job!!
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Mash
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« Reply #34 on: April 01, 2009, 11:15:23 AM »

Anybody who's swapped out that hose with the Hypermotard hose - could you possibly provide the Part # and curious as to the price too.  Thanks.

I found a set of hoses from a Hyper on eBay, and I think I paid around $140 for them.  They fit perfectly, no muss, no fuss and already assembled. The seller even included the heavy wire retainer that holds the 2 cooler hoses and the fuel tank hose to the left side of the engine.  The one I had originally was made to hold only 1 cooler hose.

I don't know the part number, nor is there anything stamped on the hoses, sorry.
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« Reply #35 on: April 01, 2009, 11:31:55 AM »

Anybody who's swapped out that hose with the Hypermotard hose - could you possibly provide the Part # and curious as to the price too.  Thanks.

You'll need 4 adapters, 4 hose ends and hose.  Search around for adapter and hose sizes, but you can make your own fittings for around $100.  I have a different bike, but I got everything from Summit Racing.
« Last Edit: April 01, 2009, 11:56:58 AM by pompetta » Logged

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junior varsity
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« Reply #36 on: June 02, 2009, 12:36:36 PM »

I've got a 99, and I'm dying to do this. Explain to me how my order is different than on the newer bikes, please.

From my reading, it seems that I cannot simply order a hypermotard line. I figure i'll replace these next oil change, and do both lines, and probably go through PJ to do so, but what kind of issues am I going to have relating to the older Box-style Oil Cooler on my '99 M900?
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RB
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« Reply #37 on: June 03, 2009, 06:36:00 AM »

you will need to measure your fittings at all four ends(thread pitch...), unless someone with a 99 and a definitive answer chimes in. So this means you need to diconnect your lines before you place an order....to be safe.

RB
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« Reply #38 on: June 03, 2009, 08:23:24 AM »

I can do that come next oil change.
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CairnsDuc
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« Reply #39 on: June 03, 2009, 02:29:49 PM »

And make sure you use 2 spanners when removing or connecting the lines to the oil cooler itself, there was a thread on here a while ago where someone used only one spanner to remove the line and ripped there oil cooler open, there is a reason the oil cooler has a bolt head on the inlet and outlet points.
The cooler is not strong enough to support heavy handed spanner work by itself.

Just a friendly piece of money saving advice  waytogo
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BK_856er
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« Reply #40 on: June 03, 2009, 10:40:37 PM »

And make sure you use 2 spanners when removing or connecting the lines to the oil cooler itself, there was a thread on here a while ago where someone used only one spanner to remove the line and ripped there oil cooler open, there is a reason the oil cooler has a bolt head on the inlet and outlet points.
The cooler is not strong enough to support heavy handed spanner work by itself.

Just a friendly piece of money saving advice  waytogo

That was me...but I was installing, not removing, the cooler fitting....on a brand new cooler...with a fancy torque wrench.  That was a painful little momentary oversight.  Use two wrenches and also know that the oil coolers are very fragile!  Recently someone else cracked their engine case removing the oil line fitting, so pay careful attention to that task as well.

BK
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« Reply #41 on: June 04, 2009, 07:37:33 AM »

ee gadz.  thanks for the headsup. I don't want to damage anything when I'm simply trying to replace a line.

any threadlocker or teflon tape needed on the threads during reassembly?
« Last Edit: June 04, 2009, 07:41:35 AM by ato memphis » Logged

BK_856er
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« Reply #42 on: June 04, 2009, 08:07:34 AM »

ee gadz.  thanks for the headsup. I don't want to damage anything when I'm simply trying to replace a line.

any threadlocker or teflon tape needed on the threads during reassembly?

Yes, as I recall the manual calls for one type of thread locker on the cooler adapter fittings and another type on the engine case side adapter fittings.  The lines and o-rings get a light smear of engine oil.  I think I used blue loctite on the cooler and medium red Honda Hi Temp thread locker on the engine case side (on the advice of the dealer).  New crush washers all around.  Torque carefully to spec with a crows-foot attachment, or trust your experienced & calibrated hands.  No teflon tape required or advised.

BK
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corey
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« Reply #43 on: February 22, 2012, 06:38:45 AM »

ZOMBIE THREAD!

Looking at doing this, and curious about the PRESSURE associated with our oil cooler systems. Is this something that would be a good application for Aeroquip Socketless Fittings and Hose?

http://aeroquip.cc/fbn0600-bulkhoseblackhose.aspx

Rated to 250psi...
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ducpainter
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« Reply #44 on: February 22, 2012, 06:54:42 AM »

ZOMBIE THREAD!

Looking at doing this, and curious about the PRESSURE associated with our oil cooler systems. Is this something that would be a good application for Aeroquip Socketless Fittings and Hose?

http://aeroquip.cc/fbn0600-bulkhoseblackhose.aspx

Rated to 250psi...
Kind of overkill IMO.
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