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Author Topic: Corey's 2R800 Fork Swap... Now 999 Forks...  (Read 19873 times)
duccarlos
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« Reply #75 on: February 16, 2010, 06:49:29 AM »

I got my new forks from an S2R1000. New Showas, revalved with a .90 spring. SHould be getting it back on Thursday after I get some other stuff done on it. I'll try to post pictures later this week.
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« Reply #76 on: February 16, 2010, 03:04:55 PM »

I also have a set of Showas that are getting a little TLC.  Anodizing/powdercoating/and a rebuild with new springs, gold valves, and custom stack.
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corey
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« Reply #77 on: March 25, 2010, 04:12:07 PM »

Well boys. NOW it has actually begun. Sorta...
Step 1: Get old lower bearing off new steering stem... COMPLETE!
Got everything else lined up and ready to go!
New SpeedyMoto tapered bearing going on this weekend.
Figuring out lifting the bike this weekend.
999 Forks w/ Ohlins UES kit are ready for install.
5mm spacers for caliper mounts are being machined currently.
Fancy-Schmancy black triple clamps are bored/shimmed as necessary.
Drilled axle has (finally) been acquired, after one decided to jump ship (out of the box) during UPS shipment...
999 CF racing front fender acquired.
Woodcraft Clipons w/ 2-inch rise just arrived tonight! (top notch, really impressed).

All in all, i think everything is lined up, and i shouldn't be surprised by too much during the swap.

Anything I'm overlooking?
Also, I'm still having trouble determining exactly how i should mount the forks... measurement-wise.
They are exactly 5cm (50mm) longer than the stock S2R forks, excluding the top preload adjuster, but INcluding the fork cap itself. Should i just add the 5cm to the top? Or should i equal out some other distance, like lower triple to axle? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated, this is the only gray area i have still.
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jim_0068
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« Reply #78 on: March 25, 2010, 06:48:14 PM »

i would only measure to the top of the fork TUBE. Dont include any other measurement above that. I am also doing this conversion but with a stock bored triple and already have all my components minus the rotor spacers. However i am going to install forks before i decide on handlebars. Is there enough room without raising the forks for the clip ons to go ABOVE the triple?
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« Reply #79 on: March 25, 2010, 09:40:13 PM »

Not an expert, just trying to be logical - if you are using a Fancy Schmancy triple tree, I would think that the best measurement is from axle to the steering stem. The triples might be different heights than stock.

I'm looking forward to seeing the final result and hearing what you think.

It should be a little better Wink
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« Reply #80 on: March 25, 2010, 11:22:08 PM »

Stopintime is right.  If you are using speedymoto triples, they have a different "curvature" than the stock triples.  The top triple especially.  When I did this conversion, I had a lot of fork leg exposed above the stock top triple.  when i installed the speedymoto triple, most of the fork leg disappeared due to the speedymoto piece being shaped differently.
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corey
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« Reply #81 on: March 26, 2010, 04:07:54 AM »

The triples are stock. Just black now waytogo
Should i measure just add the difference in length to the fork tube above the triple? or should i still measure from axle to bottom triple? Should i do this with the bike on the ground? or hanging?

i would only measure to the top of the fork TUBE. Dont include any other measurement above that. I am also doing this conversion but with a stock bored triple and already have all my components minus the rotor spacers. However i am going to install forks before i decide on handlebars. Is there enough room without raising the forks for the clip ons to go ABOVE the triple?

on spacers: i think it's alot easier just to have four 5mm thick washers made for the caliper mounts, rather than have a rotor spacer made. The difference is so small, that it doesn't really create any safety issue just to move the calipers closer in. Basically you have a washer that is 5mm thick, with 2cm outer diameter, and 1cm inner diameter.
I'm not even positive they are needed, just going by what i've heard.

on clipons, the forks are only 5cm longer, so unless your clipons have mighty slim mounts, getting the on above the triples will be... challenging.
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« Reply #82 on: March 26, 2010, 06:06:39 PM »

on spacers: i think it's alot easier just to have four 5mm thick washers made for the caliper mounts, rather than have a rotor spacer made. The difference is so small, that it doesn't really create any safety issue just to move the calipers closer in. Basically you have a washer that is 5mm thick, with 2cm outer diameter, and 1cm inner diameter.
I'm not even positive they are needed, just going by what i've heard.

on clipons, the forks are only 5cm longer, so unless your clipons have mighty slim mounts, getting the on above the triples will be... challenging.


you're correct you'll need to space the rotors out or space the calipers in. I have pics of a guy who made a caliper spacer if interested however i feel more comfortable with rotor spacers.
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corey
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« Reply #83 on: March 27, 2010, 06:54:54 AM »

you're correct you'll need to space the rotors out or space the calipers in. I have pics of a guy who made a caliper spacer if interested however i feel more comfortable with rotor spacers.

pm sent regarding pics waytogo
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corey
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« Reply #84 on: March 27, 2010, 11:17:01 AM »

major success today, lower bearing install went smooth as butter.
i made a list of the exact shit i used to install it, for those in the future who wish to do this without buying a bunch of expensive tools....

SpeedyMoto Tapered Bearings...
Old lower bearing race turned upside down with a slit cut in it for expansion.
Driver was a 1-1/2" diameter standard black steel pipe "nipple" from home depot, 12" in length, threaded at both ends (not necessary, but i didn't feel like standing around waiting for the guy to cut them off) $5.67
Craftsman 2-lb dead-blow hammer
and a concrete floor with a folded up old t-shirt under the triple.
Left the triple/stem in the freezer for about an hour, and then let'er rip. Took about 5 whacks to seat it fully.. then 4 more or so to be sure waytogo

Close one though, ALMOST forgot to slide the bearing seal on first... That would've sucked.
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« Reply #85 on: March 27, 2010, 11:27:41 AM »

Better to put a 2x4 or such directly under the stem, then a shop-rag on that.
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corey
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« Reply #86 on: March 28, 2010, 06:21:11 AM »

Better to put a 2x4 or such directly under the stem, then a shop-rag on that.


noted sir. i'll be sure to check my stem/head (that's what she said) after a couple hundred miles incase something didn't seat fully.
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corey
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« Reply #87 on: April 11, 2010, 05:25:49 PM »

Evil




pics coming after i get the clipons all set up
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corey
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« Reply #88 on: April 12, 2010, 02:25:57 AM »

One small question. Just to ease my mind.
The torque setting for the "steering bearing ring nut", i.e. the fancy top triple nut... is 30nm according to my shop manual, or about 22ft/lbs. I'm pretty sure it's correct...Can someone please confirm this? Just seems awfully light to me...

Thanks!
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« Reply #89 on: April 12, 2010, 03:10:42 AM »

It is pretty light, I can't remember the number. But it doesn't do the "holding" - the pinch bolts on the triple that pinch around the steering stem do the real work.
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