How to lose unsprung rear weight (single-sided swingarm cush drive joys)

Started by ellingly, January 31, 2010, 02:28:19 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Monstyr

Fantastic job there, well done.

This has been well known issue for single sided Ducati hubs for a while. My old 916 had this problem,fortunately I found it before it did too much damage.
There was also a cheap fix for it too if anyone is worried about theirs. (and hopefully I've remembered it correctly, I'm sure the logical minded of you will be able to tell me otherwise)
Just remove the sprocket and remove it from the carrier, on its inside face take a punch and beside each of the cush rubber holes punch one (or two?) indents as close to the edge of the cush rubber sockets as you can manage, this should have the same effect as peening a chain link and should cause a little lip to appear  at the very inside edge of the hole which only needs to be enough to stop the cush rubbers from walking towards the hub.
It worked on the superbikes,I'm surprised its still an issue over ten years later considering its such an easy fix and a disasterous consequence if left.
The two most common things in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.

muskrat

just found this thread.  Mine failed and in less than 500 miles it ate itself into the swing arm itself.  riding in the rain and sand for so long I thought nothing of it and when I got home was about to set the bike on fire.  I'm glad I found a reasonably priced swing arm and hub for cheap. 
Can we thin the gene pool? 

2015 MTS 1200
09 Electra Glide

corey

question regarding cush drives.
are there any manufactures making these things in a solid piece out of something more substantial than rubber? I understand the purpose of the rubber, and what the cush drive is doing, but is there something else that's pliable enough to dampen the drive forces, yet also stiff enough to directly bolt on?
I know with automotive bushings, polyurethane and delrin are in high use right now for these reasons...

thoughts??
When all the land lays in ruin... And burnination has forsaken the countryside... Only one guy will remain... My money's on...

DarkStaR

IMO, the same issue will happen regardless..or eventually.

It's the bonding procedure that seems to be the problem.  (e.g. metal to rubber)

In the automotive industry, the bushings are mounted/used in a way where failure is not as detrimental or possible the way it is on our ducs.

Best bet is to replace the sprocket carrier with one that prevents the backing out problem all together.

greenmonster

M900 -97 
MTS 1100s  -07

crimsoncloak

I saw the title and was hoping this thread was about a source for the lightweight titanium cush drives that I can't seem to find anymore.

Amlethae

Still a great tutorial!

I'm trying to do something a bit more simple... just changing my rear sprocket on an SSS... Do I need to remove the rear wheel to do this?  (I don't think so, but I want to make sure I'm not missing something).  And should I put it up on a rear stand when I do it?  I just don't want to mess this up.  Thanks!
First bike (ever): 2008 Monster 696 [now it's the wife's]
Lost to the front end of a GMC truck: 2010 Monster 1100s w/ABS [miss it!]
Currently Riding: 2013 Streetfighter 848

Speeddog

Quote from: Amlethae on August 31, 2010, 02:30:52 PM
Still a great tutorial!

I'm trying to do something a bit more simple... just changing my rear sprocket on an SSS... Do I need to remove the rear wheel to do this?  (I don't think so, but I want to make sure I'm not missing something).  And should I put it up on a rear stand when I do it?  I just don't want to mess this up.  Thanks!

No, you don't need to remove the rear wheel.

Yes, you should put it up on a rear stand.
- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~

Oldfisti

Quote from: crimsoncloak on May 12, 2010, 04:43:14 AM
I saw the title and was hoping this thread was about a source for the lightweight titanium cush drives that I can't seem to find anymore.


http://www.ducatipartsblowout.com/catalog/40-01301.htm

if they still have them
Quote from: Sinister on November 06, 2008, 12:47:21 PM
It's like I keep saying:  Those who would sacrifice a free range session for a giant beer, deserve neither free range time nor a giant beer.
Quote from: KnightofNi on November 10, 2009, 04:45:16 AM
i have had guys reach back and grab my crotch in an attempt to get around me. i'll either blow in their ear or ask them politely to let go of my wang.

stopintime

Quote from: crimsoncloak on May 12, 2010, 04:43:14 AM
I saw the title and was hoping this thread was about a source for the lightweight titanium cush drives that I can't seem to find anymore.

It's been a while since you asked, but.....
http://www.bellissimoto.com/AEMDriveDucati.html   (scroll down)
252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

corey

lol... only $279!!
i guess it's cheaper than a hub and swinger... but jeez.
When all the land lays in ruin... And burnination has forsaken the countryside... Only one guy will remain... My money's on...

Two dogs

Elingly do you have a photo showing the damage of the bike before work began ?
I want to know what signs to look for on a damaged cush drive as I am shopping for an S2R
cheers

Duc796canada

Great write up! Yes, the vulcanizing process is the weak link abut also some cleaning agents eat the rubber! On the helicopter Bell 412, we have found this on the head, mind you the helo head is under a lot more force!
796 Red Monster(sans ABS)
Viz-Tec Supabrake II
15/41 gearing(AFAM quick change sprocket)
PC V, NEXTUP QS.
2006 Suzuki GSXR 600 track bike(I know...not a Duc...some day)