Paint the engine, is it possible?

[slowkitty]

Darn .... this thread has no pics! 

[junior varsity]

I smell an alternative to doing it myself.... will begin new piggybank fund with email to DP when its near full.

[djrashonal]

That's not sound.

The stain isn't an issue.

Here's the issue.

Paint won't stick well to untreated aluminum. If you remove the factory paint you need to either use an epoxy primer, a self etching primer, or chemically treat the aluminum. That's why I leave it if possible.

What's the best way for it to stick after it's cleaned up? just leaving the original on and a light sand? Everyone is talking about Air cooled, is there any difference for a water cooled?

[ducpainter]

What's the best way for it to stick after it's cleaned up? just leaving the original on and a light sand? Everyone is talking about Air cooled, is there any difference for a water cooled?

Sand out defects...scars scratches etc and prime or treat any bare aluminum. I like to use a red scotch-brite to abrade where you can't get a piece of paper, which really isn't much on an engine.

If you like insurance you can use an adhesion promoter and then spray with a 2 part urethane. It holds up well to solvents and the normal surface temps of air cooled engines.

There is no difference for water cooled.

[djrashonal]

Sand out defects...scars scratches etc and prime or treat any bare aluminum. I like to use a red scotch-brite to abrade where you can't get a piece of paper, which really isn't much on an engine.

If you like insurance you can use an adhesion promoter and then spray with a 2 part urethane. It holds up well to solvents and the normal surface temps of air cooled engines.

There is no difference for water cooled.

Thanks  where can one find said 2 part urathane? i was just going to use a high heat aerosol from lowes. I'm going for a blending look, so i want it as flat as possible.

[ducpainter]

Thanks  where can one find said 2 part urathane? i was just going to use a high heat aerosol from lowes. I'm going for a blending look, so i want it as flat as possible.

Rattle can isn't solvent...gas oil chain lube resistant.

You can go to most auto body supply houses and buy an aerosol kit that has a 2 part paint in it that they fill there with exactly what you want. You pull a tab to mix all the components and then you have a few hours to use it.

Tell the guy at the paint counter you want flat black.

[He Man]

i sprayed my valve covers with that VHT engine paint. its suppose to be pretty good against temps up to 550, oil paint and gas resistant.

it was stripped down to the bare aluminum and i didnt use any primer ( didnt know any better). and it came out really good. never stripped or anything. I only had it on there for a few months so no idea how long it will last.

[ducpainter]

i sprayed my valve covers with that VHT engine paint. its suppose to be pretty good against temps up to 550, oil paint and gas resistant.

it was stripped down to the bare aluminum and i didnt use any primer ( didnt know any better). and it came out really good. never stripped or anything. I only had it on there for a few months so no idea how long it will last.

i guess it comes down to definition when using the word resistant.

[ducatiz]

Sand out defects...scars scratches etc and prime or treat any bare aluminum. I like to use a red scotch-brite to abrade where you can't get a piece of paper, which really isn't much on an engine.

If you like insurance you can use an adhesion promoter and then spray with a 2 part urethane. It holds up well to solvents and the normal surface temps of air cooled engines.

There is no difference for water cooled.

If you use the Duracoat, you don't need the adhesion promoter.  I blasted the jug fins on the GTL down to the metal, cleaned it with the Lauer solvent and compressed air, and applied the Duracoat mix with a Preval aerosol.  After 3 years its still there.  I believe the Duracoat is an epoxy type paint.  Pretty much resistant to everything -- gas, oil, carb cleaner, etc. 

[ducpainter]

If you use the Duracoat, you don't need the adhesion promoter.  I blasted the jug fins on the GTL down to the metal, cleaned it with the Lauer solvent and compressed air, and applied the Duracoat mix with a Preval aerosol.  After 3 years its still there.  I believe the Duracoat is an epoxy type paint.  Pretty much resistant to everything -- gas, oil, carb cleaner, etc. 

The only issue with an epoxy would be UV exposure.

You park your bikes inside. Left outside an epoxy will UV degrade in a short time.

On steel rust would appear within a year or so depending on film thickness.

Aluminum would corrode.

[ducatiz]

The only issue with an epoxy would be UV exposure.

You park your bikes inside. Left outside an epoxy will UV degrade in a short time.

On steel rust would appear within a year or so depending on film thickness.

Aluminum would corrode.

i know that's an issue with epoxy, but not a problem with Duracoat.  maybe they don't use epoxy, that is just my guess.  it's a two-part thing and smells like it.  it's a proprietary formula, so no idea what they use.

[ducpainter]

i know that's an issue with epoxy, but not a problem with Duracoat.  maybe they don't use epoxy, that is just my guess.  it's a two-part thing and smells like it.  it's a proprietary formula, so no idea what they use.

If it adheres to bare metal without treatment it almost has to be epoxy based on my knowledge.

Have you left anything done with it outside for extended periods?

[ducatiz]

If it adheres to bare metal without treatment it almost has to be epoxy based on my knowledge.

Have you left anything done with it outside for extended periods?

I am thinking you are right, because they sell a UV resistant topcoat and a separate UV resistant hardener.

I had seen it before, but it didn't register, so it's definitely epoxy based...

[ducpainter]

I am thinking you are right, because they sell a UV resistant topcoat and a separate UV resistant hardener.

I had seen it before, but it didn't register, so it's definitely epoxy based...

The UV resistant stuff is most likely a poly/urethane of some sort. The stuff they have today is amazing with regards to hardness/chemical resistance.

[greenmonster]

Anyone who considers painting seriously (=removing engine), think about it at least FIVE times first.
Requires redicolous amount of time, sandblasting, masking etc. There is alot of cavities, fins etc.....