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Author Topic: rattle can color match "dark"  (Read 17666 times)
xcaptainxbloodx
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« Reply #15 on: March 12, 2010, 08:23:52 PM »

Never been to the Tuesday coffee.  I've got a 3 month old son so if I come the whole family is probably coming.  But that's fine, we hate sitting around the house Smiley

Send me a PM and you can come by and look at my bike/fender before you decide on spending the money or doing it yourself.

Scott

Thats cool man, you wouldent be the first. in the summer theres a whole buncha kids running around. very family friendly, no parking lot stuntaz or anything.  come by on tuesday so i can check the bike Wink
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Bones
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« Reply #16 on: March 13, 2010, 06:07:09 AM »

OK since the plastikote GM7179 is impossible to find, I found an alternative:

I use Dupli-Color import auto spray"  Phantom Gray CC  8800954.

This is a very dark gray with metallic flake.   Almost perfect match to my '02 dark.

give it a try.

good luck!
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pitbull
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« Reply #17 on: March 13, 2010, 06:56:22 AM »

OK since the plastikote GM7179 is impossible to find, I found an alternative:

I use Dupli-Color import auto spray"  Phantom Gray CC  8800954.

This is a very dark gray with metallic flake.   Almost perfect match to my '02 dark.

give it a try.

good luck!



I just had a tank and front fender done in that colour..........very sharp.

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COP TZR
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« Reply #18 on: March 13, 2010, 11:25:02 AM »

is this a matte finish?   Do I then use the matte Dupli-Color clear coat?  How many coats of each do you recommend?



OK since the plastikote GM7179 is impossible to find, I found an alternative:

I use Dupli-Color import auto spray"  Phantom Gray CC  8800954.

This is a very dark gray with metallic flake.   Almost perfect match to my '02 dark.

give it a try.

good luck!

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Bones
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« Reply #19 on: March 16, 2010, 03:44:55 AM »

I THINK and this may sound weird: it was matte when I painted plastic and satin when I painted metal.   either that or I ended up putting a clear coat on the metal.  I honestly don;t remember. 

the paint code suggests it needs a clear coat finish, but for a fender, I wouldn't clear coat it. However its just personal preference.
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« Reply #20 on: March 31, 2010, 01:24:43 PM »

I'll have to try and find these paints now.  Is an automotive enamel or appliance epoxy good enough for the rearsets & frame pieces??  Trying to do this on a budget and I know powdercoating is going to be alot.
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Bones
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« Reply #21 on: March 31, 2010, 03:24:30 PM »

yes epoxy paint would be great for that. I have used it myself.  some appliance paint may have a textured finish, so look out for that.

as an interesting PS to this, I now have to replace the front fender, rear cowl and tank on my monster, so I'll be doing a bunch of painting soon!
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scott_araujo
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« Reply #22 on: March 31, 2010, 03:25:54 PM »

I'm really impressed with the way the Duplicolor/Krylon on the front fender has held up over a few thousand miles.  No chips or scratches.  Still, rearsets get hit by your boots all the time.  I don't know if rattle can is going to hold up to that.  It may start chipping and look lousy.  I think epoxy paints are tougher.

Scott
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ducpainter
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« Reply #23 on: March 31, 2010, 03:32:03 PM »

Epoxies are not suitable for UV exposure.
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« Reply #24 on: March 31, 2010, 07:07:40 PM »

Epoxies are not suitable for UV exposure.

what happens?  Does the color fade or paint get weak and start chipping/peeling off?
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MonsterTom
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« Reply #25 on: April 01, 2010, 02:39:32 AM »

I was experimenting with different rattle cans from the auto parts store (because NO ONE carries the Plasti-Kote color that is supposed to be a very good match) and found one that matches 98%.

I wouldn't use it for touch up (i.e. blending in to the original paint) nor would i use it to paint a tank, but definitely would use it on fenders, cowls, or stuff like that.  I used it on my headlight bucket and windshield fairing.

I have to check when I get home, but its an import car color......



oh.... for the triple and frame bits, I highly recommend VHT epoxy frame paint.   like the title says, its a spray-on epoxy paint especially made for frames.   I painted my upper triple and lower triple clamps, as well as rearsets and some parts of the engine casing.

since the belt covers are plastic, I would recommend the krylon plastic paint.



I'm chopping the stock rear fender on my M1100 and will need to paint the undertail piece as I've hacked, filled, and sanded the hell out of the thing.  So......should I paint it matt black, or satin?  Where it's under the bike, I'm not real concerned, but since I need to paint it anyway, I might as well match it best I can.
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Bones
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« Reply #26 on: April 01, 2010, 03:09:52 AM »

weird, the VHT epoxy paint I use has many uses including watercraft, industrial, bumpers, roll bars, and chassis and it doesn't say anything about not exposing to the sun.
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Mr Earl
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« Reply #27 on: April 01, 2010, 04:24:32 AM »

I yield to Ducpainter's expertise in this area, but - strictly anecdotally - I epoxy-painted a bunch of .50-cal ammo cans for use in whitewater rafting about 10 years ago, and aside from scratches caused by very rough handling they look great.  The paint was Plastikote Super Durable Epoxy Appliance paint.
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Leo Vince CF slip-ons, '01 SS900 fully adjustable Showa forks w/ST2 springs, rebuilt S4 shock w/Ohlins spring, 748 dog bone, Swatt clip-ons above the triple, Sargent seat, Duplicolor-Dark seat cowl, Rizoma grips, Techlusion TFI, SBK front fender, Evoluzione slave, BMC sport air filter, 14-tooth sprocket, Desmotimes caseguard, S2R side panels, Pantah belt covers, fake CRG LS mirrors, extra black zip-ties, right grip control imprint on tank, de-cannistered, Ducati Meccanica Bologna key ring
ducpainter
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« Reply #28 on: April 01, 2010, 04:42:46 AM »

I yield to Ducpainter's expertise in this area, but - strictly anecdotally - I epoxy-painted a bunch of .50-cal ammo cans for use in whitewater rafting about 10 years ago, and aside from scratches caused by very rough handling they look great.  The paint was Plastikote Super Durable Epoxy Appliance paint.
It really depends on the level of UV exposure.

I worked in a fab shop as an industrial painter. There were some parts returned from a customer that had been painted with an architectural epoxy that were stored outside on some racks...the things were 26 feet long. Within a year the finish had chalked and rust was showing. The parts had 5 dry mils of material on them. If you don't have any reference that's a lot of paint. Enough to fill the sandblast profile with no sanding.

If you store your bike in a garage you'll most likely be fine. If your bike lives outside in the elements and is exposed to the sun for extended periods I don't recommend epoxy.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


COP TZR
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« Reply #29 on: April 01, 2010, 06:38:50 AM »

It really depends on the level of UV exposure.

I worked in a fab shop as an industrial painter. There were some parts returned from a customer that had been painted with an architectural epoxy that were stored outside on some racks...the things were 26 feet long. Within a year the finish had chalked and rust was showing. The parts had 5 dry mils of material on them. If you don't have any reference that's a lot of paint. Enough to fill the sandblast profile with no sanding.

If you store your bike in a garage you'll most likely be fine. If your bike lives outside in the elements and is exposed to the sun for extended periods I don't recommend epoxy.

Holy crap 5 mils of paint!!!!  Well I'm not going to be too concerned then as the rearsets wont get much sun exposure since they are blocked by your legs and feet while riding.  Bike is stored indoors also, so another plus. 
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