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Author Topic: How To: install SBK fork, clipons, and more @ M696  (Read 46648 times)
Raux
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« Reply #15 on: June 05, 2010, 08:38:28 PM »

pretty certain the offset is different.
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Raux
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« Reply #16 on: June 05, 2010, 08:39:31 PM »

Why not?

Oh and I was mistaken about the axle lengths.. They are the same

do the axles have the same profiles as well? could you take a pic of them side by side?
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DoWorkSon
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« Reply #17 on: June 05, 2010, 09:32:21 PM »

The axles are different... And so is the spacing... Here is what I found. If the 1098 Axle is used, with the 696 stock wheel, and the 30MM spacer, then the right side brake caliper lines up and bolts on, but the left side is slightly offset.

After much pondering I measured the axles and spacers on the axles and here is what I found... 



The stock axle as a 20 MM spacer on the right(left on drawing) and then the removable 30 MM spacer on left(right on drawing).

The 1098 Axle has a 14MM spacer on the right, and then the removable 30 MM spacer on the left.

So, I am thinking, that if you cut the 30MM spacer by 6 MM to 24MM, then it will all be even just as it is with the 696 axle, thus allowing the left side caliper to line up and be bolted on....



Anyone have any ideas or see anything wrong with this thinking???

Cutting the spacer should allow to caliper to move slightly in and line up with the left side fork.

All these measurement are approximate and done with tape measure, I need to get a set of calipers to get the fine measurements....


As far as the lower triple.... It is very close in fit and I think it might work, but at not 100%. I will not know till I get everything buttoned up and look.... I am going to have shims made for the stock lower just in case.... Everything seems just about aligned, and the differences in offset are very slight... But, I will know for sure once I get the top triple machined out and start putting everything back together.

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2003 BMW R1150GS- The commuter
2009 M696--SOLD
Raux
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« Reply #18 on: June 05, 2010, 09:48:04 PM »

i would think you would need to add a 6mm space to the 14mm side of the 1098 axle to make it straight. also, i think the monster is a 30mm lower triple offset and the superbike is 25mm so a 5mm difference is too much. better to just shim the stock triple.
i remember this issue when i was looking at getting a streetfighter triple.
but i dont have the pieces in front of me.
IMO if things are EXACTLY the same, it's not good.
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DoWorkSon
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« Reply #19 on: June 05, 2010, 10:03:08 PM »

So cut 30mm spacer to 24MM and then add a 6 mm to 14mm side?

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2003 BMW R1150GS- The commuter
2009 M696--SOLD
Raux
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« Reply #20 on: June 05, 2010, 10:11:20 PM »

i was thinking just adding 6mm to the 14mm side and leave the 30mm spacer alone. the wheels and different for the sbk also i think.

you basically need the same amount of distance between the axle spacers that is on the stock 696. so measure that distance and i think you'll see what i mean.
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DoWorkSon
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« Reply #21 on: June 05, 2010, 10:28:56 PM »

Then you run into the issue of the caliper not aligning with the rotor... Currently, the caliper and rotor on right side align and it works... On the left, the caliper is slightly offset and needs to come in slightly...
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2003 BMW R1150GS- The commuter
2009 M696--SOLD
DoWorkSon
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« Reply #22 on: June 05, 2010, 10:37:16 PM »

If you look at the 696 Rotor/wheel you will see on the right side that it's flat. On the right side the 14MM spacer sits flush up against the wheel/rotor.

However, on the left side it's indented. The 30 MM spacer sits into this indent. So, the spacers on each side do not need to be identical. The space on left and right need to be the same, but the spacers are different to allow for this indent on the left side rotor.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2010, 10:52:26 PM by DoWorkSon » Logged

2003 BMW R1150GS- The commuter
2009 M696--SOLD
DarkStaR
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« Reply #23 on: June 06, 2010, 05:37:30 AM »

If the fork legs have settled properly:

If one caliper is aligning, and the other is not, that sounds like a rotor offset issue adding to the situation.

I'd suggest mocking up the wheel w/ rotors and axle (no calipers because they probably will not fit) .  Center the wheel and take axle & rotor measurements before modding/making/buying parts.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2010, 09:21:16 AM by DarkStaR » Logged

DoWorkSon
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« Reply #24 on: June 06, 2010, 10:15:10 AM »

Looking at it this morning after a nights sleep and it not being 2am I think that I just need the spacer to push out the rotor and all should be ok....I am going to have all the parts machined and see which setup works when using the 1098 Axle...
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2003 BMW R1150GS- The commuter
2009 M696--SOLD
Raux
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« Reply #25 on: June 09, 2010, 10:24:21 PM »

well after discussions with the guy I'm working with, we have an issue he doesn't agree with. the 5mm spacers for the rotors. the stock rotors are hubcentric with 6 bolts. if you add the 5mm spacer you take the rotors halfway off the hub and basically are usingthe bolts take the force of the braking.

I've measure it and the hub is 7mm thick. the rotors 4mm thick and the spacer would be 5mm
so the rotors would only have 2mm left on the hub.

the only rotors i've even heard of that are 6 bolt, 15mm offset are 998R rotors, and good luck finding those.

anyway, anyone else thought about the hub issue?

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DarkStaR
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« Reply #26 on: June 10, 2010, 06:13:51 PM »

well after discussions with the guy I'm working with, we have an issue he doesn't agree with. the 5mm spacers for the rotors. the stock rotors are hubcentric with 6 bolts. if you add the 5mm spacer you take the rotors halfway off the hub and basically are usingthe bolts take the force of the braking.

I've measure it and the hub is 7mm thick. the rotors 4mm thick and the spacer would be 5mm
so the rotors would only have 2mm left on the hub.

the only rotors i've even heard of that are 6 bolt, 15mm offset are 998R rotors, and good luck finding those.

anyway, anyone else thought about the hub issue?

IMO, and im no engineer: "I" Don't think it's really an issue.

What's "their" reasoning against it?
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Raux
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« Reply #27 on: June 10, 2010, 06:37:03 PM »

He is an engineer and I'm starting to understand. I had an old Fiat same issue. It's called hubcentric.
Basically a center hub or lip on the wheel is what holds the brake sheering force. the bolts keep it from rotating and slipping off that lip. if you pull it off that lip then the bolts have to compensate for the sheering force as well.

soooo, I'm researching what rotors are out there that have the 6 bolt with 15 mm offset in 320mm.
found 3 so far. Brembo, EBC and another brand.

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DarkStaR
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« Reply #28 on: June 10, 2010, 08:32:33 PM »

You are comparing a rotor to a wheel.  Wheels have the load of the vehicle and torsional loads to deal with, and still yet, lugcentric wheels rarely fail...just more of a pain to install.

Don't get me wrong, if you can get hubcentric rotors on the easy, go for it...

The rotor bolts still have to deal with shear factor under braking regardless.  As long as the rotor is centered, I think the length of the bolt is more of concern in this scenario, and still yet...I wouldn't worry about it.
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Raux
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« Reply #29 on: June 30, 2010, 11:29:19 AM »

DoWorkSon

have you solved this math problem

this is what I was thinking about. you were measuring with stock 696 rotors which have the different offset. that's why the left side lined up without the additional 6mm on the 14mm side. if you added 6mm to the spacer and then used the 15mm offset rotors i bet it would all line up.

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