How To: install SBK fork, clipons, and more @ M696

[Raux]

new rotors !

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=39318.msg715504#msg715504

[DoWorkSon]

Im still waiting on my parts from the machinist...

I am going to try using just the rotor spacer first and see how that pans out....

Second will be using a cut down axle spacer....

If none of the above work, going to use the 696 axle, make the shims and go with the method that pjfa used

[DoWorkSon]

I learned today that the 1098 axle will not work..... You must use the 696 axle with the 1098 fork.... The 1098 axle is too short and the tapered end is shorter than the 696's.... Because the axle is shorter, the upper/lower triple will not be aligned unless you want to make several spacers for each side of the fork and do all the measurements and whatnot...

However, if you have a 1098 axle, and do not want to have a shim for the 696 axle machined a simple alternative(if you have appropriate tools) is to cut off the tapered end of the 1098 axle that fits in the 1098 fork, cut a small line to allow flex, and then place that over the tapered end of the 696 axle.... Prety much like pfja did, but without machining a shim, just using what I already had.

[Raux]

I learned today that the 1098 axle will not work..... You must use the 696 axle with the 1098 fork.... The 1098 axle is too short and the tapered end is shorter than the 696's.... Because the axle is shorter, the upper/lower triple will not be aligned unless you want to make several spacers for each side of the fork and do all the measurements and whatnot...

However, if you have a 1098 axle, and do not want to have a shim for the 696 axle machined a simple alternative(if you have appropriate tools) is to cut off the tapered end of the 1098 axle that fits in the 1098 fork, cut a small line to allow flex, and then place that over the tapered end of the 696 axle.... Prety much like pfja did, but without machining a shim, just using what I already had.

can you put them side by side? also with the nuts. because teh 1098 nut has a short extension on it.

[DoWorkSon]

can you put them side by side? also with the nuts. because teh 1098 nut has a short extension on it.

Everything is put together so I cannot get a pic now... But the 696 axle is about a 1/2" longer than the 1098's and the tapered end of the 696 axle is also about 1/2" longer than the 1098's....

It's this extra length that makes the 696 axle work with the 696 lower triple and upper....

If you wanted to use a 1098 triple setup, you might be able to with the 1098 axle... however, buying a whole new set of upper/lower 1098 triples was not even an option when i could use the 696 axle I already had

[Raux]

Everything is put together so I cannot get a pic now... But the 696 axle is about a 1/2" longer than the 1098's and the tapered end of the 696 axle is also about 1/2" longer than the 1098's....

It's this extra length that makes the 696 axle work with the 696 lower triple and upper....

If you wanted to use a 1098 triple setup, you might be able to with the 1098 axle... however, buying a whole new set of upper/lower 1098 triples was not even an option when i could use the 696 axle I already had

errrr. totally pissed now.

[DoWorkSon]

Yes... it has been a frustrating experience trying to use that 1098 axle... I thought it would save time using it but ended up taking more time....

So, you will need the axle shim, the two rotor spacers, and two thin metal shims for lower triple..... Pfja's measurements are perfect and everything lined up....

[Raux]

well i have the rotors fixed, i also have the triples fixed. now i need the axle.
I will probably get one CNC'd to solve the issue. just need to get the measurements, etc.

[ReapeR696]

DoWorkSon, do you have the measurment for the rotor spacer thickness? I have yet to find any reliable information on this topic. If you do, much appreciated! Otherwise, when i get my forks mounted up i'll post up my findings. I have a suspicion it's 5mm but i'm not 100%. Thanks!

[DoWorkSon]

The rotor spacers need to be 4.5 mm wide... just like on the first page where pfja posted his parts.... As far as the alignment and diameter of the spacer, I just gave my machinist the rotor and explained to him the location of the bolt holes and size of spacer.... but they must both be 4.5 mm thick and you need two, one on each side!

[DoWorkSon]

Bike is finally done with the new forks, wood craft clipons, and a rizoma belt cover....

A crappy pic but here they are installed

[Veloce-Fino]

Looks good!! I am totally jealous of your forks. 

I'm thinking it will be easier to just buy an 848 to go along with my monster.

[Raux]

the 1098 axle fit perfectly. but i have the whole set: axle, spacers, and nut.

the nut is the difference i think. it has an extension on it compared to the stock monster nut.

so the only thing i had to do was change out the left side spacer for the monsters and everything lined up perfectly.

the brakes with the 15mm offset, the superbike forks, superbike axle, one superbike spacer (small one), one monster spacer, superbike nut.

[ReapeR696]

This subject hasn't been started yet on this topic but i think it's directly applicable as a follow on to the fork installation. Ok, so I’ve got everything buttoned up on my bike, test rode it to make sure everything was in working order and so on. Now, about all the new adjustment options at our finger tips... I reset / verified everything was back to what the 1098 manual outlines as stock and went from there. So far all I’ve fiddled with is getting my baseline sag with all the suspension components set at their stock setting. I found that i was sitting at 29mm front and 19mm rear initially. From what i've read so far on this topic it appears that for most riders a similar figure is advised for both front/rear suspension. After getting my base line i reset the rear to 29mm for equality sake and then softened the compression in both forks 1/4 turn. So far the suspension feels great. While researching preload, sag, damping and compression i've also stumbled across generic sag settings that outline 25-30mm is ideal for racing applications and 30-35mm is advisable for road conditions which would mean that my settings are still so stiff. I’m no mathematician but I know I worked all the equations correctly. I will admit that i have pretty decent roads around where i live so until i do further evaluation i won’t know for sure how much of an impact the varying road surface will make. I know there are numerous other threads that discuss suspension tuning and setup but I think keeping this one in this thread will be to the benefit of all who read this topic. In an attempt to circumvent a few of the questions that may arise from this discussion, the following information is provided to set a baseline for what I’m working with. Weight with gear 180'ish lbs and stand about 5ft 9in, forks were just serviced with new oil and seals and the springs are the stockers with approximately 4000 miles on them, still on the dealership rubber and am running them at the spec outlined in the owner’s manual, I’m running clipons above the triple as well if someone it a rocket scientist and would account for varying riding positions.  I’d be interested to see what anyone else has found out or done so far that has either worked, failed or what your thoughts/impressions are so far….

Here are some pics of my bike after the  new front end install.

[ReapeR696]

Did some more messing with the suspension sense yesterday. I found probably the best write up on tuning suspension to date and decided to go ahead with the advice given in it sense it directly pertains to Monsters and not generalized for sport bikes overall. It suggested 35mm sag for the front and 30mm out back (previous information found suggested 30/30), so I reset all my controls and rear spring and adjusted to 35/30. I also followed what it outlined for rebound and compression after which I went for a 50 mile ride to shake it out and see how it may have changed. First impressions so far is the ride has improved sense my previous 28/28 settings which I suspected were overly ambitious, even for tracking the bike. The route I took encountered varying types of road surface (not dirt, all paved) and I made it a point to hit a pothole or  two as long as they weren’t too bad to see what the bikes reaction would be. So far, I’m impressed and may not mess with it for the remaining ¾ of the tank just so I can get more of a feel for it. I also checked the free sag after I got done setting the suspension up just to see if the stock springs were too stiff. So far it appears they may be as the free sag figure was more than 30% of the static sag. I ended up with 22.37mm for the free sag and according to the article that recommends a 35mm sag figure for the forks I should be at approximately 10.5mm free sag. I haven’t done the free sag on the rear yet that’s not really applicable to this thread sense the focus is about the forks. Hope this helps someone else out with setting up their suspension. There is allot I left out about setting up the suspension that the article touches on (I tried to follow it as closely as possible), worth a read IMHO.
Link to write up below:
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=982.msg8140#msg8140