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Author Topic: 95 m900 R6 fork swap (pics)  (Read 19738 times)
Düb Lüv
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« Reply #30 on: April 22, 2010, 09:00:06 AM »

since HE told me to keep it simple. so today i pulled my old forks out, and i believe came up with a better axle plan.

this is how my 20mm axle is the forks. sleeve nut on the left and the axle extracts from the right.


here's my plan. flip the axle so the axle extracts from the left and sleeve nut on the right. then machine the 25mm side down to 22mm (left side r6 fork), and have a new sleeve nut made for the 28mm o.d. side (right side r6 fork). the cards are showing what the axle diameters would be after machining.


then i could keep the 20mm bearings i have since there's nothing wrong with them.
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« Reply #31 on: April 22, 2010, 10:10:07 AM »

there you go. 2 spacers. all you need is one more to align the wheel and your good.
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« Reply #32 on: April 22, 2010, 12:24:38 PM »

YAY HE MAN HUGS!
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« Reply #33 on: April 22, 2010, 03:45:34 PM »

Teaser
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« Reply #34 on: April 22, 2010, 04:09:19 PM »

i hate chew. looks awesome though!!!
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2006 Ducati S2R1100 Yea.... stunttin like my daddy CHROMED OUT 1100!!!!


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« Reply #35 on: April 22, 2010, 04:18:35 PM »

i'm probably going to have the axle machined tomorrow.

but have 1 question.
should i have a new sleeve nut machined to have a o.d. of 28mm or should i have an aluminum sleeve to fit over the original thread sleeve to make it fit?

the second choice seems kinda sketchy and a shortcut to me
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« Reply #36 on: April 23, 2010, 12:09:19 PM »

i dropped off my stuff to the machinist today.

i'll post pics and measurements of the solution he came up with. i'll have pics and such up probably late monday. hopefully before my surgery on tuesday. yay. 
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« Reply #37 on: April 23, 2010, 07:47:00 PM »

i would grind off those threads and put a new spacer ontop.

the threads dont give you a nice surface to apply pressure, and if ou get something to thread over it, you will only get your slef into shit when unthread the nut. youll just end up backing out the spacer  and it will be tough since it will be rubbing on the fork leg's axle hole.

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2006 Ducati S2R1100 Yea.... stunttin like my daddy CHROMED OUT 1100!!!!


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« Reply #38 on: April 23, 2010, 08:06:02 PM »

when i took him the stuff i told him what i had in mind and open to and thoughts, since he's the machinist. the idea he came up with was really smooth. bore the 22mm leg to 25mm for the OE ducati sleeve nut to fit and machine a 3mm sleeve spacer to add on the axle to fit the 28mm leg. then on the 3mm sleeve spacer, he's going to tig the outside edge of if to prevent from moving or losing it.
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« Reply #39 on: April 28, 2010, 01:59:41 PM »

I had a bb7 started out with a monster T, switched to a boxxer, and my last fork on it was the 888. The 888 was by far the best fork the boxxer just seemed to have too much flex in it when I rode the rougher courses. I wish I still had that bike with the 888.
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« Reply #40 on: May 02, 2010, 01:16:36 PM »

i haven't forgot about the thread.i had shoulder surgery last tuesday, and is a minimum.
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« Reply #41 on: May 02, 2010, 01:24:44 PM »

i'm really wanting to land a set of these. so this project might take a little longer than expected.
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« Reply #42 on: May 02, 2010, 01:55:03 PM »

hope your shoulder gets better.

you can pick up a used 1098 radial master brembo for about $120-150. if thats in your budget. im sure the magura one or the Brembo RCS one are RETARDED expensive!
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2006 Ducati S2R1100 Yea.... stunttin like my daddy CHROMED OUT 1100!!!!


Check out my Latest Video! 05/13/2017 :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4xSA7KzEzU
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« Reply #43 on: May 02, 2010, 01:59:42 PM »

they are pricey. i thought about the 1098s. is there a way i find out the piston bores?
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« Reply #44 on: May 07, 2010, 01:02:21 PM »

i picked my forks and axle from the machinist a couple days ago. i finally got everything bolted up and fork legs shimmed.



the fork 22mm fork leg bored to 25mm and a sleeve added to bring the other side to 28mm, clamps perfect.

a problem has seemed to come up with the axle, causing wheel fitment issues. on the inside of the forks, there are shoulders that are throwing off the wheel.



i'm going to pull the wheel back off and look at everything again. this is what the axle is doing. since the fork has the shoulders, its putting the sleeve nut more towards the center. as you can see in the pic, the axle is tightened down all the way and has about 1/2in hanging out on the left.

one thing i thought would be quick and easy was to machine the shoulder on the sleeve nut off. then after thinking about that, i was worried i would always have trouble centering the wheel. 
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