Losing weight on my S2R

[hackers2r]

Are titanium bolt kits worth the investment to shed some lbs or are there any other small suggestions to get closer to 300 lbs?  Already chopped the tail, removed belt, sprocket, chain, and side covers.  Thanks.

[pennyrobber]

300 lbs is a pretty ambitious goal. If you weigh all the things you mention removing you might have cut 3 or 4 lbs maximum. Some good spots to start though would be going with a full exhaust system as this will get rid of the heavy cans and udder. A light weight battery like a Yuasa 7S or one of the A123 setups can save you around 4 lbs. Going to 520 chain and sprockets from 525 will know a few more lbs off. A lightened flywheel is good for another couple of lbs as well. After that I would go with mag or carbon wheels. Beyond there each lb gets more and more expensive to shed.

[rockaduc]

300 lbs is a pretty ambitious goal. If you weigh all the things you mention removing you might have cut 3 or 4 lbs maximum. Some good spots to start though would be going with a full exhaust system as this will get rid of the heavy cans and udder. A light weight battery like a Yuasa 7S or one of the A123 setups can save you around 4 lbs. Going to 520 chain and sprockets from 525 will know a few more lbs off. A lightened flywheel is good for another couple of lbs as well. After that I would go with mag or carbon wheels. Beyond there each lb gets more and more expensive to shed.

A full exhaust will save you over 10lbs.
unless your have done all of the above, the weight savings w/ Ti bolts is not worth the $$$$.  Ti bolts will help you save those last few ounces. 
Also, remove passenger pegs, delete fly screen, those stupid side covers under the seat,
+1 to 300lbs being an ambitious goal, good luck.
keep us posted.

[kman0077]

Personally I think Titanium bolts are nice for unsprung weight (Anything on the end of the forks or swingarm) but not cost effective for anywhere else.

Having said that, they do weigh less and if your willing to spend the money, there is a lot of hardware on the bike that can be replaced.

300 lbs would be quite something. My race bike is just under 400lbs (wet) and it's got everything removed that is safe to remove.

You'll be happier if you spend the money on the unsprung parts than lightening the rest of the bike. 520 chain/ aluminum sprocket for rear, lightened brake rotors,rotor/caliper bolts, a pair of those new Michelin Power Pures (lightweight tires!!!),wheels (but stock are pretty light anyways).

Out of all those, the 520 chain with aluminum sprocket will be the most noticeable to you.

Lightweight batteries can save a lot of weight but that usually equates to poor battery performance.

I'm not sure on the Monster, but sometimes aftermarket rearsets can save a pound on the bike.

[hackers2r]

Already have a Full Arrow Titanium exhaust, bike already has 520 chain and sprockets, pass. pegs are long gone, tail chop is already done, side covers are long gone as well.  I had the fly screen gone but it actually makes a considerable difference at high speeds so back on it went.  I'm in the process of eliminating some more lbs from the seat, more on that later.  Will look into a LW battery setup.  

[corey]

you will need a titanium FRAME to get to 300 lbs. NCR built a hailwood replica with a Ti frame that was still 316lbs.

[crimsoncloak]

The only titanium part that really has a decent money/weight-loss ratio is the rear shock spring.  Can lose a couple lbs there.  If the stock showas have steel cartridges, the aluminum cartridges would drop a couple pounds.  Light flywheel is another 2 lbs. Aluminum carrier discs probably 2~3lbs. Cheesed rear disc 1 lb.  Light wheels, 10~15lbs.  Alloy cam pullies 1~2lbs.  Alloy tensioners .5lb.  Rear sprocket 2~3lbs.  ETI fuel cell if available, else aluminum tank 7~9lbs.  Lightened primary gear, 1lb.  Cut off stock steel subframe and have alum iinum frame welded up, 7-10lbs.

The sky is the limit
The only limit is your imagination
Bring money (all of it) <----This

[FastAndLight]

+1 on what everyone else said. A couple of suggestions from the frame perspective:

Stu's Al rear subframe:
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=34302.0

These guys make some super light frames too:
http://www.radicalducati.com/index.php?page=diciembre-2006

Good luck! 

[1KDS]

Actually made by TELAI DM for rad

english version
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.radicalducati.com/&ei=NGjOS8WMB4vkswPA1qivDg&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CA4Q7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dradical%2Bducati%26hl%3Den

[1KDS]

For a mere 6 grand

[MotoCreations]

300lbs?  You definitely have a challenge ahead of yourself!

Major areas to start with:

1) frame -- replace it with something lighter (and stronger)
2) smaller battery
3) BST wheels
4) carbonfiber discs
5) throw your singlesided swingarm away -- go doublesided (aluminum swingarm and wheel lighter s singlesided)
6) minimalist rearsets
7) hog out the triple clamps thinner
8 ) machine the engine cases to remove a few pounds
9) lighten all the internal engine rotating parts (revs faster is a nice perk)
10) carbonfiber seat w/rubber pad
11) carbonfiber fuel tank
12) toss the headlight/tailight away
13) toss the kickstand away
14) buy lots of magnesium engine case parts
15) lighten the clutch
16) minamalist rear brake caliper
17) titanium rear spring
18) weigh your tires -- big weight difference between brands

That gets you to about 305-308lbs range.

a) then titanium bolts that are drilled for lightness
b) start measuring things on the scale to the gram -- it will have to become a disease
c) when doing #8/#9 above -- lighten every single part as possible within the engine.  Trimming of fins allowed as well as removing weight from cranksaft.  Machine off belt cover castings.    Machine off anything that isn't mandatory to make it run. 
d) remove the starter (and allows a smaller battery) and either bump start it or get a rear wheel racetrack starter setup.

Alex Ortner built what he called the GPDUE many years ago.  900cc based Supersport.  He literally weighed and massaged every single component of the disassembled bike and started from there.  He ended up machining aluminum parts ala engine plugs, etc in delrin plastic.  He succeeded in cracking the barrier. 

I've built a few bikes in the 320lb range (with my own frame) -- 340 is pretty easy and isn't too stupidly expensive.  But 300 is the holy grail for all Ducatista...

Item #1 and #2 to buy?  An accurate scale to weigh the larger parts and a smaller postal scale to measure down to the gram.

And if you posted weights as you go -- we'd all appeciate it!

[hackers2r]

Well I did say it was a goal...lol...not sure how long it'll take me to get there but those are my eventual intentions.  Framewise, after doing some research, that aluminum frame pictured is a bad idea for street use, they even state it on the mfg. website.  I know Mark has spoken of frames but he has said he won't really do frame production, so there goes that idea.  Other than that, haven't seen any other frame options.  Currently working on the smaller A123 type battery.  Wheels and suspension mods are on the schedule this summer.  LW seat is also currently in the works.  Has anyone actually come up with an accurate way to weigh the bike?  Seen stuff involving leveling the bike while on a bathroom scale and that sounds plain risky.  Any others?

[kman0077]

I use 2 bathroom scales. $19 at Harbor Freight. I bought them to weigh my car (2 scales per wheel) and they work great because they're designed for fat people (aka Americans). Just need 1 scale per wheel on the motorcycle.

[nikko900e]

Excessive attention to detail results in this:
http://shop.durbahn.de/shop/en/home
Track only bikes, but .........take a look at the 1098. Not cheap by any means.

[colin748916]

Those bar-end weights, if you weigh them you will be supprised. And they come off for free! Ever use the horn? Its another pound for free. The little stupid deflector with it's two steel bolts under the lower triple, gone! Mirrors, change those for cheap lightweight plastic bar-ends or something.