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Author Topic: '06 620 cutting out at low to mid-range RPM  (Read 2470 times)
dark_duc
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2008 S4RS Tricolore


« on: December 12, 2010, 02:52:02 PM »

     My 2006 620 occasionally will cut out while cruising along from 4K-5K RPM.  I have only noticed it while driving through town between 35-45 mph.  When this happens and when safe, I will accelerate strong in 2nd gear up to 8K-9K then let the rpms drop back off.  It seems that after doing this, it will usually run fine again.  This only happens now and then, but enough to where I am wondering if I should dig deeper or is this a normal occurance?

    I would like to add that since getting the new fuel tank, I have run about 6 gallons of non-ethanol premium through the bike.  The previous owner ran E10 regulary so I thought this issue may just be some crappy gas but it hasn't seemed to have gone away.  I have just over 10K miles and all services have been done.  Thanks
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dark_duc
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« Reply #1 on: December 14, 2010, 07:08:15 PM »

hmmm...guess I stumped everyone   Wink

I am leaning towards trying some fresh plugs and testing the TPS.  Seems to happen at one specific throttle position.  I'll post up what I find.
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sbrguy
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« Reply #2 on: December 14, 2010, 08:07:33 PM »

mine sometimes does this when i'm running at a constant speed or sitting in traffic stop and go for a while, not sure what does it, i think it has something to do with it just running constantly and not chabnign much, other than that its never been an issue and seems to only happend when hotter but again nothing ever really to think about.
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seevtsaab
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05 M620


« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2010, 11:18:38 AM »

Good to read the plugs. COouldn't hurt to check connections at coils etc.

I've never been into a tank but I'd bet theres a hose not connected, or cracked, in the fuel delivery.
Or, are you saying, this issue began before the tank replacement?
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dark_duc
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« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2010, 05:46:15 PM »

Well, pulled the plugs and they looked to be carbon fouled.  Swapped in a new set and now runs like a champ.  I think I may be running too rich so will have to start looking into why.
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dark_duc
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« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2011, 09:18:09 AM »

Well, ran fine for a few hundred miles, now it's back to running really rough at low speeds/RPM's.  I talked to my local Duc shop and the tech said that I was letting it warm up to long (when cold I usually let it warm up about 5 minutes) and I could maybe have some bad gas.  He also said that the air cooled monsters will tend to load up at low speeds/RPM's and needs "cleared out" occasionally.

I pulled the plugs and they looked to be on the rich side again.  Air filter good, as are obvious coil/plug connections.  Cleaned up the plugs, fresh gas and now runs fine again.  I have my 12K service coming up in about 1500 miles so I am assuming they will sync the TB's and possible run some diagnostics.  I'm just worried that they'll throw in a new set of plugs and call it good when there is some underlying issue.

I guess my question to those out there, is the tech accurate about warming up to long and the "clearing out" in anyone elses experience?  My main gripe to all that would be sometimes, it's just to crowded in town to WOT.

Any other easy things to check?

Thanks
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Howie
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« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2011, 10:56:33 AM »

Well, ran fine for a few hundred miles, now it's back to running really rough at low speeds/RPM's.  I talked to my local Duc shop and the tech said that I was letting it warm up to long (when cold I usually let it warm up about 5 minutes) and I could maybe have some bad gas.  He also said that the air cooled monsters will tend to load up at low speeds/RPM's and needs "cleared out" occasionally.

I pulled the plugs and they looked to be on the rich side again.  Air filter good, as are obvious coil/plug connections.  Cleaned up the plugs, fresh gas and now runs fine again.  I have my 12K service coming up in about 1500 miles so I am assuming they will sync the TB's and possible run some diagnostics.  I'm just worried that they'll throw in a new set of plugs and call it good when there is some underlying issue.

I guess my question to those out there, is the tech accurate about warming up to long and the "clearing out" in anyone elses experience?  My main gripe to all that would be sometimes, it's just to crowded in town to WOT.

Any other easy things to check?

Thanks

Though your tech is correct about excessive warm up times, this is not your problem.  Excessive warm up time is only wasting fuel.  Unless your bike has been modified or there is a malfunction your bike should not load up at low speed.  When your bike goes in for the 12K service make sure your complaint is in writing on the work order.  

If you need to tell the dealer how to fix your bike it is time to find another good dealer or a good independent who is familiar with Ducatis.  Anyway, they should run full diagnostics paying full attention to anything that could be causing the bike to run rich, such as the temperature sensors, throttle angle at idle and throttle position sensor.  Assuming all is good it is now time to adjust CO trim with the bike connected to an exhaust gas analyzer.  Oh, as far as easy, diagnostic tools or software are needed to set TPS and all I mentioned should be done when you are getting the service done.
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dark_duc
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« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2011, 11:10:05 AM »

Thanks for the advice Howie.  I will make sure the problem is addressed when I drop it off for the service.  The only modification that I know of on it is the original owner cored the stock pipes.  I had put about 1000 miles on it before this problem arose which was around the time the tank was replaced.  I will also make sure I let them know that as well in case something happened during the tank swap as seevtsaab pointed out.
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seevtsaab
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05 M620


« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2011, 08:30:00 AM »

Noticing the exhaust mod video and attending comments regarding low idle.

I'd be surprised if it's enough to cause your stalling, but your plugs could be fouling because idle is so rich. Lean it out and bring it up a the same time by backing the air bleed screws, 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
At least worth an experiment.

I didn't have any drivability issues but similar adjustment did reduce some smoke.
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dark_duc
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2008 S4RS Tricolore


« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2011, 09:11:43 AM »

Noticing the exhaust mod video and attending comments regarding low idle.

I'd be surprised if it's enough to cause your stalling, but your plugs could be fouling because idle is so rich. Lean it out and bring it up a the same time by backing the air bleed screws, 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
At least worth an experiment.

I didn't have any drivability issues but similar adjustment did reduce some smoke.

I do have to say I have never really noticed much smoke at all but have had the case of the burning eyes at a stop light a couple times when it acts up.  I have the maintenace manual so I will look at trying the adjustments you mentioned, they sound fairly straightforward.  As a side note, 100 miles since the fresh tank, cleaned plugs, and new exhaust and doing just fine.  I talked a bit more to my duc shop and they said they will definately sort it out at the 12K should the problem resurface.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2011, 09:14:13 AM by dark_duc » Logged
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