520 Chain and Sprocket Changes

[Evil_Ductator]

I have a Monster 1000S (2005).  It currently is running stock gears (which I believe are 15/39, please correct me if I'm wrong!). 

I decided to change the gearing for smoother low-speed running and a little more pull.  I figured why not do a 520 conversion while I'm at it.  So basically I can do any gearing combo I want at this point, since I need to swap sprockets anyway.

I know this has been discussed ad nauseum, but I can't seem to find specific info right now pertinent to my situation.

I know a lot of folks do a 14t front, and some do +2 or +3 in rear, or some combination there-of.  I'd love to get a good recommendation of what is the best all-around compromise for mostly twisties riding and a little PCH cruising ( ).  I will be riding to Laguna Seca (from SoCal) this year but no other long distance trips planned.

I found a RK gold 520 XW chain and Drive Systems sprockets at a local dealer in 15/42 combination.  Would this be a good pick for what I need?  Is it worth the extra cash to go for fancier name brands?

[Slide Panda]

+3 in the back is about equal to -1 up front.  With a 1000 you really shouldn't need anything more drastic.  I've got 15/42 (maybe 43 gotta check) on my 900 and it seems a good combo.  On a flat city street she'll burble along with barely any throttle w/o lugging - but there's still plenty of go to break every speed limit in the US. 

I'm no chain expert - but RK's a known brand so I wouldn't sweat that detail much if you've got a deal your happy with.

[Evil_Ductator]

Do you recommend going up 2 or 3 in the rear?

[Slide Panda]

+3 in the back will be closer to -1 in the front than just +2.  Some folks have had issues with the chain rubbing on the swing arm when they go smaller in the front... soooo If you're planning to replace all if it anways - go up in the back.

a lot of people opt for the 14t since it's easier to swap that sprocket and generally doesn't require a new chain.  Bigger rear sprox are harder to do (gotta pull the wheel) and probably means a new chain.

[hillbillypolack]

I'm close to doing a 520 conversion as well.  I think I'm favoring the 15T front and a +2 in the rear.

From what I understand, maintaining the 15T will allow for a better mechanical "lever" at the countershaft, as well as having more contact to the chain for efficient pulling power.

I doubt a 14T will "hurt" anything in the front, since we're getting under 100 hp output at the shaft.

[Evil_Ductator]

I've heard of the chain rubbing issues too, that's part of my reason, part is also that I want a 520 chain for the weight savings and less rotating mass (although I don't know how much difference that will make?).

My main thing is if I should do +2 or +3 in the rear.  I don't know if it would be a noticeable difference or not.  Anyone?

[Slide Panda]

Meh go +3.

I know that when I put a 14t on my former 620 it made a noticeable difference.  I got my 900 with it's current gearing (15/42 - I looked last night) and haven't needed to change anything.  When the time comes for a new set I'm going to keep that ratio

[LA]

I looked it up on the Duc web site because I thought 15/39 was very high for a stock gear for a 1000-2v, but that's right.  I'm a little surprised, because the older s4r (higher torque and HP) came with a 15/42 and the current S4R/RS (even more torque and HP) comes with a 15/43. Both the 1000's and the S4R's use the same primary ratio 1:84.

I've tried almost all the ratios in the past and find the 14/43 best all around gearing. That a 14t front hurts anything at all is a myth. I got 40,000 mi total running mainly 14s so far.

If you found the stock 15/39 bearable, I'd suggest at least a 44t rear if you are going to use a 15 front. Go with a quick change rear carrier so you can experiment easily. (Chris at Ca-cycle Works has em) Bigger than a 44t rear is harder to find.

Like I said, I find the 14/43 to be a very good all around gear. Of course YRMV.

LA

[Desert Dust]

I'm looking into changing my 2007 S2R 1000 from a 525 chain and sprockets (stock set-up) to a 520 set-up.

1.) Is the 520 chain strong enough for the S2R 1000?

2.) I am happy with the stock gearing. Will the 520 chain change the gear ratio even if I go with the same number of teeth front and rear?   

[Howie]

I'm looking into changing my 2007 S2R 1000 from a 525 chain and sprockets (stock set-up) to a 520 set-up.

1.) Is the 520 chain strong enough for the S2R 1000?

Yes, but expect it to wear out faster.

2.) I am happy with the stock gearing. Will the 520 chain change the gear ratio even if I go with the same number of teeth front and rear?


No.  

[Desert Dust]

Thanks. Looks like I'll be going with the 520 set-up.     

[NAKID]

Thanks. Looks like I'll be going with the 520 set-up.     

I did that on mine, but I went with a 15 tooth front and I want to say 43 tooth Supersprox Stealth rear, steel teeth, aluminum carrier.

[BookEmDanO]

I bought my 750 with 14/38. Just replaced the whole final drive with 14/40 and a 520 chain. It pulls noticeably harder but gets pretty buzzy around 80mph. I tolerate it, but it's something to keep in mind.

[vw151]

I looked it up on the Duc web site because I thought 15/39 was very high for a stock gear for a 1000-2v, but that's right.  I'm a little surprised, because the older s4r (higher torque and HP) came with a 15/42 and the current S4R/RS (even more torque and HP) comes with a 15/43. Both the 1000's and the S4R's use the same primary ratio 1:84.

I've tried almost all the ratios in the past and find the 14/43 best all around gearing. That a 14t front hurts anything at all is a myth. I got 40,000 mi total running mainly 14s so far.

If you found the stock 15/39 bearable, I'd suggest at least a 44t rear if you are going to use a 15 front. Go with a quick change rear carrier so you can experiment easily. (Chris at Ca-cycle Works has em) Bigger than a 44t rear is harder to find.

Like I said, I find the 14/43 to be a very good all around gear. Of course YRMV.

LA

The higher HP and torque of the S4Rs is not the reason for the shorter gearing, the reason is power for the S4Rs starts at a 2Valve motors redline.  These motors rev to 11k as apposed to a 2V that is done at 8k. 

[The ModFather]

Here are two helpful links on this topic in case you havent seen them yet:

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/shop/catalog/ducati/chain.html