What did you do today?

[MongoReturns]

Glad you made it out Zulu, too many close calls (and totally call'd) lately.  You probably locked up the rear using the brake; I did that quite a bit when I first got my Monster.  Terrifying.  I can't even remember the last time I used my rear brake to stop; I'm all engine-braking & fronts these days.  And I always prefer an escape route.

I severely dislike not being able to see the road in front of a car in front of me (I actually like the cars I can see straight through).  Too much crap, holes, & retread parts on the roads.

[Slide Panda]

Now that I have a real keyboard at the ready - here's some more thoughts and a blending of those above.

Big trucks and visibility: There was a fellow (Shadowchaser for those who remeber way back) on the board who drove an 18 wheeler. he had some great insights for bikers around rigs. Big trucks are best avoided as much as possible when on a bike. As noted they block a ton of your view and they can't see you well.  They have very big blind areas that a car can disappear in... more so for us on bikes. Visibility for you and being visible to the driver is a big factor.  Give them as wide a birth as possible

Big trucks and road shit: This is sorta two items, one being visibility they block a ton of the roads surface so you can't see holes, etc. The other is that big trucks tend to kick up a lot more stuff from the road. If you're behind them, that's where it's going. Also if one of their retreads decides it's had it and you're too close - a 15 pound piece of tire will probably take you off the bike if it gets you square.

Big trucks and wind: Not as much a factor at the speeds you describe and one finds on 50 in that area - but if you're on a super slab big tucks, even ones not as big as 18 wheelers, displace a lot of air. The result is a big turbulent wake that can easily push a bike across or into the next lane. If you're ready for it - no big deal. But I'd wager that more than one newer, or just inattentive biker has lost control or come close when passing or being passd by a big truck from that turbulence.

Stopping: Bikes do a lot of stuff well - but they don't stop as well as many other vehicles on the road. We've got a lot of capacity, but it tempered by the dynamics of the bike. Too much front brake and over the top you go. We've got the advantage of (usually) being able to get on the brakes faster than a car, but many cars will do 60-0 in less distance than a bike. This is of course just a 60-0 distance and MAX brakes, I'm not counting the human factor. So even as nimble as our bikes are - leaving room (when possible) is never a bad plan.

NoVA defensive driving: Drivers in the DC metro are suck. Way to many people are under-skilled and over estimate their ability. Add in cell phones, texting, dicks who like to cut you off or tailgate etc etc and it's tough out there. Don't get complacent. Don't think they are looking out for anyone else, especially you/us. To that end some things I try to do:
  - Don't follow too closely
  - Keep from running next to another vehicle when on a 2+ lane road
  - Stay away from big trucks.
  - Get paranoid about that left turn lane ahead
  - Plan ahead when possible

So, now I segue back to you. I know Rt 50 is really really busy road so it forces some limits on you. But you could have avoided:
  - Following too closely
  - Following right behind a big truck
  - Had a limited plan

Good thing is, those are easy items to remedy - so you can keep this in mind for next time.

As far as your reaction - remember what I said about not doing too many thigns at once? I think than may have played a factor in your run on - specifically messing with the gears. If you're in a situation where you need to stop 100% as fast as you can all your focus should be on the brakes and the control of the bike. The bikes not going to stall as soon as you hit the brakes so just let engine management go from your mind at that moment and work on the brakes.

Another item to keep in mind - is  that if you have locked up the rear and and the bike isn't tracking straight (back coming around or wagging) and you release the rear brake it can cause a high side. Though a lot less common than a low side, a high side crash occurs when the rear wheel has lost traction (like a lock brake) and the rear is 'trying to pass the front' ie swinging around or sliding and then the rider or just conditions cause the rear tire to regain traction (usually the release of a locked brake or chopped throttle in the case of a spinning rear). When the rear wheel that's swung out grips the road again it wants to get back in line - violently. Many times this quick change can launch the rider from the bike.
- If you've locked up the rear with the brakes and you feel the bike coming around work to keep it straight and when if doubt keep the rear brakes locked and ride it to a stop. Even a low speed high side correction is pretty violent.

For example as spinning wheel highside:
rossi crash

[bikepilot]

Realizing that there was a gap was brilliant on your part.  A huge advantage of bikes is that the road is almost never physically closed to us.  Its really rare that cages are packed so tight that a narrow bike like a Monster won't fit between them.  When in doubt, go around 

SP and everyone nailed it I think.  The two main areas I'd stress are paying attention to what's happening and predicting what is happening so you are prepared.  Ideally you stay out of questionable situations in the first place and barring that, recognize them at the first sign of trouble.

The second issue I think worth stressing again is braking.  As SP said bike's braking isn't all that spectactular.  A lot of folks assume a bike will way out-stop a cage.  This isn't always true.  A bike's 60-zero, with a pro rider is roughly similar to most sports cars, so the bike can stop fairly quickly, but it takes a very good rider whereas the cager can just mash the pedal hard.  (the rider skill necessary is diminishing with traction control/abs etc though).  Working on your braking ability is always good to do.  I am generally able to stop a bike fairly quickly and, I think, fairly close to the bike's maximum capability.  For me this comes with riding off road competitively for almost 20 years now.   

To stop quickly I think there are three main skills.  First is reflexes to get on the brakes as soon as you spot trouble, just an extra half second makes a huge difference in terms of stopping distance. 

Second is managing traction.  You must do this independently at both ends at the same time.  If the rear locks back off just a touch to get it rolling, but don't back off the front.  If the front starts to push back off just a touch, but you needn't get off the rear.  This is something that I finally do pretty much instinctively/muscle memory.  Racing off road traction is always at a premium so you spend a great deal of time squeezing out the last little bit and getting comfortable with both ends sliding when you botch it up.  I don't know if I'd ever develop this ability on the street very well, but I'm a slow learner.  What SP says about the highside is very true, but you've gotta get way, way out of shape before its a concern.  If you lock and the back end steps out a couple of feet before you get around to fixing it, then probably best to leave it locked, but if you are paying attention hopefully you notice its locked and correct before it gets more than a couple of inches out of line, under acceleration when you brake traction the rear end steps out really quickly, but under braking it steps out relatively slowly.  Also how you apply the brakes makes a big difference, especially the front.  Grab it too quickly and it'll push before it gets a chance to load up.   Squeeze it just a hare slower and the front will load up and grip and, even  in the rain, most all sporty-bikes with decent tires will have enough grip to stand on their nose, which leads to the third point...

Finally you must manage the bike's attitude/cg.  Most bikes will stand up on their nose before they run out of traction, if the rider is able to maximize traction.  Of course snow or a really dirty road may mean that you won't have enough traction for this to be a problem, but in general a sport bike will stand on its nose, even in the wet. A bike stops the quickest with the rear wheel on the ground or only slightly off the ground.  If the rear wheel is more than an inch off the ground you are giving away stopping distance.  Keeping your body low and back helps keep the rear wheel down and allows you to stop harder.

Anyhow, that's my take on braking.

[tocino]

Got the Guzzi going for the first time in a year. Rode around for 15 minutes to see what would fall off (answer: muffler!) and see how it felt. Man the suspension on that thing sucks!

[Meerkat]

Got the Guzzi going for the first time in a year. Rode around for 15 minutes to see what would fall off (answer: muffler!) and see how it felt. Man the suspension on that thing sucks!

How's the Norton coming along?

[Artful]

Done.

Well, almost done. DucPond is sending me the rubber isolation mounts for the gauge and I'm tossing another coat of paint on the windscreen. Rode to work this morning and so far very impressed. I haven't screwed with any adjustment yet but overall much more natural riding position and the fork absorbs the bumps a LOT better than the stocker.

Now just an oil change and it's ready to go down to Tennessee.

[The Mad King Pepe']

Done.

Hah, yea right!

Well, almost done.

That's more like it... Now what's next?!? Anodize the coffin covers and a few more bits red? Get it all to the same tone as the fork caps? How about an oil cooler, and then some nice lightweight whees...

[Slide Panda]

Anodize the coffin covers and a few more bits red?

*snort

That left res cap was black... the other week.

Mas - you left off the big bore kit... don't forget the big bore kit...

[Zulu]

Thank you everyone for advice and tips. I need to find a empty parking lot and practice braking. I seem to pull in the clutch everytime I panic brake. Gotta get rid of that habit.

Really appreciate all the input.

Now off to gettin the new forks

[Zulu]

Artful, the fuel tank cap you have, wasn't it like gold or something last time ? .

The vinyl is holding up fine  , been thru rain and 104 and still stickin strong.

If I go ahead and buy the 1100 forks , I prolly gnna have to wrap it before they put it on ( that is if its possible to do that way).

[Slide Panda]

If I go ahead and buy the 1100 forks , I prolly gnna have to wrap it before they put it on ( that is if its possible to do that way).

Not really. I could hardly get my fork clear that had two VA inspection stickers on it - and they were ruined in the process. I seriously doubt you could install forks with the wrapping in place.

[Zulu]

Not really. I could hardly get my fork clear that had two VA inspection stickers on it - and they were ruined in the process. I seriously doubt you could install forks with the wrapping in place.

Another trip to MD Could you lead the way again  sad panda  .

[Slide Panda]

Gotta find a better way this time... Save for tridelphia I was less than thrilled by our course last time.

[tocino]

How's the Norton coming along?

Good. Just got the new carb in. Got the oil tank on and some of the wiring. This is the hard part because it's all little annoying things that don't look like much and then 3 hours have gone by. Right now I gotta "massage" the coil brackets on.

[Artful]

Ha oh I'm not delusional, I know the BIKE isn't done, but this PROJECT is.

Yes, the cap was orange. It started black and went orange in two weeks. I had bought the black/red one a while ago but didn't put it on because it's a little busy for my taste. With the new setup though it goes a little better until I can get the other one re-ano'd.