1100S Darmah Project Bike [PICS & Questions]

[Amlethae]

I would have to say do not chance it. Last thing you want to do is gouge up the inside of your pressure plate and have to wait even longer to finally ride your bike!

Completely agree.  Garage is buttoned up till the new nut arrives 

[R0CKETMAN]

Why can't you just grind down the stock nut to match EVR?

Okay... much further along now... already at the next problem that has me in a holding pattern now until Monday...

The shaft is larger than the standard M20 size... I hope/expect it'll be the M25 and I'm getting one sent to me and should be here Monday so we'll know then.

Here are pictures of the EVR nut (left) and the stock nut (right):



I tried just putting the stock nut on it, but it's too tall and presses against the EVR pressure plate.  So now I just wait... 

[BellissiMoto]

You could grind it down, but that is a lot of grinding on a hardened steel part, which is not going to be fun at all, and it's certainly not anything I would consider doing when the proper nut is only 2 days away from arriving.

[Amlethae]

Woohoo!  Just got the new bolt delivered from Bellissimoto, and it fits just perfectly!  I'll finish up the install tonight or tomorrow and update with pictures!!

[He Man]

Woohoo!  Just got the new bolt delivered from Bellissimoto, and it fits just perfectly!  I'll finish up the install tonight or tomorrow and update with pictures!!

Screw pictures tell us how the bike rides with that slipper!!

[Amlethae]

Screw pictures tell us how the bike rides with that slipper!!

Too sloshed to go riding but I'm very happy to report it's all together and working like it should be!  Ride report tomorrow night :-)

[ungeheuer]

 

[Amlethae]

Crappy cell phone picture, too lazy to get out my nice cam for now :-P

Ride Report:

1) The bike does seem to take off a bit quicker now with the ligher clutch.  Didn't push it hard enough to feel the slipper effect but I'm sure that'll happen in time :-)

2) The friction zone has moved.  When I have the clutch lever all the way to the bar, the bike is in "neutral" with no problems.  As soon as I move it even 1/2" away from the bar it starts engaging.  The zone seems a bit larger than it was when stock and it's fully engaged about 1" before the lever is fully released.

3) Shifting when the bike is at idle RPM is really hard.  If I've got the throttle just a little open I'm able to shift okay (still impossible to get into neutral when it's running).  So upshifting is fine when I'm on the move, no problems.  But I have to stay on the gas a bit to down shift when slowing or else I really have to put my weight on the gear lever.

Very odd problems as far as shifting goes, I wonder if the clutch lever/push-pin isn't pushing the pressure plate out far enough; or if the EVR standard clutch-stack height is too high.  If it's the latter then some wearing in should solve that problem.

She's pretty though ain't she?

[ungeheuer]

.... Shifting when the bike is at idle RPM is really hard.  If I've got the throttle just a little open I'm able to shift okay (still impossible to get into neutral when it's running).  So upshifting is fine when I'm on the move, no problems.  But I have to stay on the gas a bit to down shift when slowing or else I really have to put my weight on the gear lever.

Very odd problems as far as shifting goes, I wonder if the clutch lever/push-pin isn't pushing the pressure plate out far enough; or if the EVR standard clutch-stack height is too high.  If it's the latter then some wearing in should solve that problem.

She's pretty though ain't she?

That was the cause of similar issues on mine (not slipper though).  I mentioned it already.... but have you tried operating the clutch with the lever adjusted at its longest reach?  Or swapped back to the stock lever to see if the issue goes away or changes?

And yeah, she is mighty pretty  

[Amlethae]

That was the cause of the similar issues on mine (not slipper though).  I mentioned it already.... but have you tried operating the clutch with the lever adjusted at its longest reach?  Or swapped back to the stock lever to see if the issue goes away or changes?

And yeah, she is mighty pretty  

I just did that -- set the lever to the longest reach.  Seemed to make shifting much better.  Still no go on finding neutral while the engine is running but I'm gonna try bleeding it another time and see what happens.  I'm starting to think it's the Evolutizone Clutch Slave that is causing that problem.


UPDATE:
I bled the clutch at the master and the slave once again.  There were little tiny bubbles coming out of the master for about 3 pump-rounds of bleeding.  And only one round of little bubbles at the slave.  Should be a little better now... next week I'll give it another go.

Next Question:
The pressure plate seems a little off kilter... it's barely noticeable when the bike is off and I pull in the clutch lever, but one side of it is maybe a few mm further out than the other side.  When the bike is in neutral at idle and I pull the lever, the plate definitely has a minute wobble to it -- small enough that I'm probably the only one that would notice while looking at the bike. 

I took out the plate to check the bearing and it seemed fine.  The push-rod rotated within the bearing without any noticeable arc in its spin.  So it's gotta be the springs perhaps or just the way the EVR plate is designed.  Operationally nothing seems out of the ordinary but I'm like a father wanting everything to be PERFECT! 

Any thoughts?

[BellissiMoto]

Next Question:
The pressure plate seems a little off kilter... it's barely noticeable when the bike is off and I pull in the clutch lever, but one side of it is maybe a few mm further out than the other side.  When the bike is in neutral at idle and I pull the lever, the plate definitely has a minute wobble to it -- small enough that I'm probably the only one that would notice while looking at the bike. 

I took out the plate to check the bearing and it seemed fine.  The push-rod rotated within the bearing without any noticeable arc in its spin.  So it's gotta be the springs perhaps or just the way the EVR plate is designed.  Operationally nothing seems out of the ordinary but I'm like a father wanting everything to be PERFECT! 

Any thoughts?

Just one.

My bike appears to do the same thing while in neutral and it is also very slight (though when in gear it appears to go away), anyways I think it might just be because of the actual vibration from the motor/pulses on the crankshaft.

Either way I've been using mine for years and 12,000+ miles without any issues.

[Amlethae]

Just one.

My bike appears to do the same thing while in neutral and it is also very slight (though when in gear it appears to go away), anyways I think it might just be because of the actual vibration from the motor/pulses on the crankshaft.

Either way I've been using mine for years and 12,000+ miles without any issues.

Okay sounds like I shouldn't worry too much.

As far as getting the bike into neutral (which was a problem even before the slipper) I did just notice that the gear-change lever arm (connected to the gear change shaft on the engine) is sitting at the 5 o'clock position.  Could this be any part of the problem?  Should it be sitting more at 6 o'clock?  I can't tell if 5 o'clock is extreme enough to cause trouble getting into neutral... haven't touched it yet but if anyone knows about this let me know.

[Amlethae]

So this not-getting-into-neutral thing is killing me (and my fingers).  Currently my theory is that the problem is all caused by the EVO 28.5mm Clutch Slave the dealer installed before I picked up the bike (since I wasn't able to get into neutral on the stock clutch either).  It's likely not disengaging enough with the lever pulled in.  The EVR slipper doesn't leave much room for lessening the stack height.  So two questions:

1) Is there any way to shim the push-rod either at the slave or at the pressure plate to increase the distance it pushes out the pressure plate -- safely?

2) If/when changing back to the stock clutch slave do I need to drain the fluid or is it just a "swap & bleed" kind of thing?

PS: I have already bled the lines multiple times, and adjusted my clutch lever to the furthest reach.

[mattc7]

The 28 evo slave should not have issues. I've used it on a stock, as well as on 2 slippers on m1100s (mine and a friends, stm and a bucci). None had issues with disengagement. 

1) I'ld check the lever adjustment first, it's adjustable, but the further in you put it, the less separation will occur.
2) The STM clutch uses a small washer prior to the push-out bearing which provides alittle more push length for the plate.  I think this would be better than shimming the pushrod itself. Washer between the PP and Push-Out.
3) 16x18 master will push more fluid (but will be firmer) Much nicer than the stock master (just saying, it's a tight piece)
4) Double check #1.  I have seen so many Dry clutches with this issue simply because the user adjusted the lever so close to the bar that it was IMPOSSIBLE to separate the plates. You want enough reach for separation to occur. It won't if you don't have enough.

[Amlethae]

The 28 evo slave should not have issues. I've used it on a stock, as well as on 2 slippers on m1100s (mine and a friends, stm and a bucci). None had issues with disengagement. 

1) I'ld check the lever adjustment first, it's adjustable, but the further in you put it, the less separation will occur.
2) The STM clutch uses a small washer prior to the push-out bearing which provides alittle more push length for the plate.  I think this would be better than shimming the pushrod itself. Washer between the PP and Push-Out.
3) 16x18 master will push more fluid (but will be firmer) Much nicer than the stock master (just saying, it's a tight piece)
4) Double check #1.  I have seen so many Dry clutches with this issue simply because the user adjusted the lever so close to the bar that it was IMPOSSIBLE to separate the plates. You want enough reach for separation to occur. It won't if you don't have enough.

1&4) I've got the lever all the way out away from the bar so that it has the maximum movement when I pull it in.  I don't have any further to go on that.
3) Out of $$ for that kind of upgrade, but I'll certainly keep it in mind.
2) Now that's the kind of idea I was wondering about.  But I've gotta keep an eye on the clutch not engaging fully either if I put a washer there right?  And could I put a washer in the EVO slave behind the smaller bearing in it -- same effect right?