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Author Topic: Full cored cans from partially cored s2r  (Read 2530 times)
adamld83
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« on: June 25, 2010, 06:58:41 AM »

Ive read the threads on this but I had a few questions for those with the know how. First let me explain...bought pipes of a member but didnt workout exactly how I wanted. He said they were fully cored and I get them in the mail and they turn out being partially cored. So slap them on the bike and they sound good...but no where near what I wanted. The plus side is he polished them and riveted the end caps on so they look sharp. My question is...how hard would it be to fully core them? Im just not sure whats left to be removed inside the can. Would
« Last Edit: June 25, 2010, 07:04:50 AM by adamld83 » Logged
adamld83
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« Reply #1 on: June 25, 2010, 07:03:43 AM »

...sorry not sure what happened there. Would I be able to get whats out with a hacksaw after drilling the rivets out fairly easily? Heads up I dont have a bandsaw or rivet gun or that impressive of a garage other than the basics. There is a company called a&r motorsports who would attempt to finish them for around $150 and they used to core pipes but they wont do a fresh set anymore, at least of the s2r/s4rs. Would like to try myself just not sure what I'm going to encounter in there after this guy's partial core. Kindd of bummed tho..Thanks guys.
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booger
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« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2010, 07:21:51 AM »

LOL you still haven't gotten the exhaust you wanted eh. Maybe you shoulda bought mine, yes? I'm still rockin' those bad boys - if they don't sell, it's whoever's loss not mine.  cheeky
I wrote up a tutorial on how to perform this modification. You should take some time and read it. A hacksaw won't get you where you want to go. You need a Dremel tool with a flexible shaft attachment and a shitload of cutoff wheels. You'll need other stuff too, check out my post.
Final finish depends upon the finesse of the craftsman. I achieved a high degree of craft with mine and they look and sound superb but I do realize that not everyone has the same skillz. My recommendation is to be very careful drilling out those rivets. Then be very careful with the rest of the core job.
Alternatively, you could just enjoy what you have. Unless you have a midpipe, airbox, and DP ECU you ain't gonna realize any performance benefits with a full core anyway. As long as you got sound you got most of what you need. Don't obsess over your bike too much.
Funny how that guy said it was a full core job when it wasn't.
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Everybody got a plan 'till they get punched in the mouth - Mike Tyson

2001 M900Sie - sold
2006 S2R1000 - sold
2008 HM1100S - sold
2004 998 FE - $old
2007 S4RT
2007 Vespa LX50 aka "Slowey"
2008 BMW R1200 GSA
adamld83
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« Reply #3 on: June 25, 2010, 09:27:26 AM »

Trust me if my bike was black I would have jumped all over that exhaust...just didnt think it would look right with the red/white wheels. These pipes are cool but I wouldnt have dropped cash on them if I would have known they were partially cored. Ive read your tutorial but I guess what I needed to hear is what a pain in the ass it will be without the proper tools. Guess I was hoping that after the initial core, which he did, getting the other baffles out would be easy..guess not. Will just ride as is for now. And dont obsess?!.....riiiigggghht.  laughingdp Thanks though and I CANNOT believe no one has bought that exhaust yet! Oh yeag..dude said he cored 3 sets and couldnt remember which one he was selling me...
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booger
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« Reply #4 on: June 25, 2010, 10:13:53 AM »

dude said he cored 3 sets and couldnt remember which one he was selling me...

people should have more presence of mind than that

Just borrow somebody's Dremel and go to town. I could finish it for a small fee if you sprung for the materials and shipping, but really it's best if you man up and do it yourself. It's not like your building a space shuttle or anything.
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Everybody got a plan 'till they get punched in the mouth - Mike Tyson

2001 M900Sie - sold
2006 S2R1000 - sold
2008 HM1100S - sold
2004 998 FE - $old
2007 S4RT
2007 Vespa LX50 aka "Slowey"
2008 BMW R1200 GSA
silversled
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« Reply #5 on: June 26, 2010, 01:40:52 AM »

I agree with Bergdoerfer.  It's worth the effort to do it yourself.  I used the various guides online (including Bergdoerfer's excellent writeup) and tackled it myself while building my "parts bin" S2R1K.  It cost me probably less than $75 in materials.  The end result is, 1) I constantly get compliments on how my bike sounds, 2) I've completely dropped the desire to buy an aftermarket exhaust, and 3) enjoy seeing the jealousy of my buddies who bought Arrows and Termi's   Grin

If the endcaps are already riveted on then the delicate work of initial teardown is already done.  It should be a matter of drilling out the rivets, finish coring the internals, fitting a perforated tube, wrapping the tube in exhaust glass, and buttoning the cans back up.  Easy.....   Wink

Good luck!
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adamld83
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« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2010, 07:33:21 AM »

Thanks for the offer bergdoerfer. It will be added to the list of things to do. The initial disappointment was pretty signifigant after waiting 10 frieking days on UPS but I think after putting a few hundred on them they actually sound better. As sooon as I invest in a dremel and rivet gun I will tackle this. Unless of course someone wants to sell me a set of boomtubes cheap...cmon people you know you want to go stock.  Wink
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techno
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« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2010, 03:37:42 AM »

I did this recently.

See my thread here with pics

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=39057.0

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Hey Techno you are a smart man.  waytogo

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adamld83
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« Reply #8 on: July 02, 2010, 03:50:49 AM »

Thanks! Yea I need to get a dremel and a rivet gun first. The can is already riveted so I guess its just a matter of determining what kind of rivets they are inorder to drill through them...stainless or aluminium. Looking forward to having an exhaust that is louder than my friggin engine!
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WhiteStripe
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« Reply #9 on: July 02, 2010, 05:42:07 AM »

the riveting is VERY easy.  Don't sweat that part, if you can staple you can rivet.
Drilling through stainless is not that hard - would recommend a new drill bit and let it cool a bit between rivets.

Can't comment on the coring.
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2006 S2R 1000, Arrow CF exhaust, FatDuc 02, CF open cc with stock pp
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