Make your own braided oil line?

[jim_0068]

I come from the automotive world, i've built several types of lines for oil (high/low pressure), gas, and water. As long as you get buy good stuff it's a no brainer. The stainless stuff is nice but you can also go with the pushlock fittings as it is cheaper and just as effective.

Quick google search and i found this http://www.hoseline.net/hose/pushon.htm but plenty of places to buy the stuff.

Buy a set of used stock lines, or buy a set of pre-made ones.  I'm pretty sure there are companies that can make a set of assemble the Earl's fittings of your choice.  I am ALL for DIY, but after having attempted working with Earl's fittings on an M696 oil cooler project, including using the technique that guys did, it is NOT that easy and it tears your fingers up...  He was using beefier lines than what would be used on an oil cooler and that may be why it looks so easy in the video...

Well i wouldn't use duct tape, i have always used masking tape and it has worked fine. Also, I'm not trying to be mean here but making your own lines isn't that difficult. It's more technique than anything, make sure you wrap the brained line TIGHT. You aren't going to hurt it. When you cut it make sure you go fast and deliberate just like the guy in the video did or you'll have problems.

[hcomp]

The proper line to use are AN-6 for the oil coolers. My company carries everything need to make your own lines. We are also significantly less cost than Summit or Jegs. We carry the full Aeroquip fittings and adapters needed to make your own. We also carry the Aeroquip Pro Gold line if you want to get crazy (kevlar braided and convoluted line) but it is special order. Our Website is Ballerbolts.com click on Aeroquip and AN fittings.

[Bill in OKC]

Thanks for sharing Pompetta. Very nice. 

[DoWorkSon]

The proper line to use are AN-6 for the oil coolers. My company carries everything need to make your own lines. We are also significantly less cost than Summit or Jegs. We carry the full Aeroquip fittings and adapters need to make your own. We also carry the Aeroquip Pro Gold line if you want to get crazy (kevlar braided and convoluted line) but it is special order. Our Website is Ballerbolts.com click on Aeroquip and AN fittings.

Hey Ryan, good to see you back... Seems like you have been on hiatus for a bit. Haven't seen any posts lately.

Can you make an oil cooler line kit(everything installed and attached)? I want to replace my oil cooler lines with something new and shiny when I do my next oil change, but when I tried making my own I failed miserably. I tried every technique and tool I saw with zero luck, cut up hands, a busted ego, and wasted money. 

[ReapeR696]

Thanks for the confirmation on the AN6 lines Ryan, I suspected as much but now i know for sure! Sounds like i might be making an investment in some of your product when i upgrade my lines!

[hcomp]

Doworkson....

LOL No I haven't been on Hiatus...Just working my butt off.  I am almost completely caught up with the exhaust orders! One to go! We had to do an emergency shop move last month, as our landlord apparently was not paying the mortgage. We got a 6 day notice to move.  We did it but it derailed our progress by 2 weeks. Now maybe I can finally put my own exhaust on my own bike...(the nice production version and not a crappy prototype!).

I can make the lines for you no problem, I have done it a hundred some odd times and know all the dirty little tricks to cut them and get them in the fitting without cutting myself or marring the fitting.  All I need is the over all length dimension and I can make it happen.  The best thing to do is use a stiff rope to get the measurement.  Just be sure the radius isn't too short that it could not be duplicated with stainless lines.  The Lightweight Black hose or the Kevlar Nomex can do a little tighter radius.

[ReapeR696]

Well i wouldn't use duct tape, i have always used masking tape and it has worked fine. Also, I'm not trying to be mean here but making your own lines isn't that difficult. It's more technique than anything, make sure you wrap the brained line TIGHT. You aren't going to hurt it. When you cut it make sure you go fast and deliberate just like the guy in the video did or you'll have problems.

Definitely masking tape like Jim said, I cant see duct tape working very well as the stickiness would increase fraying during removal i would think. Might i add that being patient when removing the tape is a MUST in preventing the strands from unweaving. Doing that along with using some assembly lube on the end should drastically improve your chances of getting the lines into the fitting ends. Lastly, take care when tightening the fittings, i advise using thread sealent as it will not only add a little insurance against leaks but will also minimize the chances of thread galling from taking place.

[hcomp]

I would not use thread sealer of any kind on an AN fitting. Both the 37 degree mating surface and the line connection are designed to be used without any thread sealer in any way shape or form. Once you use thread sealer the fitting is destroyed and permanently deformed. AN lines are designed to seal with only being hand tight. I do not use any tape when cutting the lines and I don't use a hack saw or cut-off wheel.  However, I do use a little bit of ATF when sliding the line into the fitting.  

P.S. One important caveat - When you cut the lines with a hack-saw or cut off wheel, you must thoroughly clean the inside of the line out, or else there is a very good chance you will have fine pieces of stainless steel wire trying to flow through your rod and main bearings.

[redial]

doing your own lines is perfectly fine.

just just a comment on the screen capture from the vid

DONT use a hacksaw, trust me not worth the trouble, use an air powered zip cutter
(small cutting wheel)

you will save yourself a headache trying to keep the braids from fraying

[Pedro-bot]

Thanks for the input guys!
Ordered what I needed from JEGS and got busy putting this together just like on the video.
Pretty straightforward. Some difficulty getting the fittings in but with a little patience nothing that can't be done. Here's some pics. 

Before:


The Goods:





After:






After shipping I spent just under $110. Fun little project. I think it's time to make some braided fuel lines. 

[jim_0068]

I would not use thread sealer of any kind on an AN fitting. Both the 37 degree mating surface and the line connection are designed to be used without any thread sealer in any way shape or form. Once you use thread sealer the fitting is destroyed and permanently deformed. AN lines are designed to seal with only being hand tight. I do not use any tape when cutting the lines and I don't use a hack saw or cut-off wheel.  However, I do use a little bit of ATF when sliding the line into the fitting. 

P.S. One important caveat - When you cut the lines with a hack-saw or cut off wheel, you must thoroughly clean the inside of the line out, or else there is a very good chance you will have fine pieces of stainless steel wire trying to flow through your rod and main bearings.

excellent excellent post with 100% correct information.

[ducatiz]

you've inspired me, but I want to put some right angle pipe in the line and try to make the hose shorter overall and hug the engine more. 

After shipping I spent just under $110. Fun little project. I think it's time to make some braided fuel lines. 

[Demoni]

Thanks to R696 i decided to under take this project as well. Adapted an 999 cooler to my 900ss.

Finally got around to getting everything mounted up.

Here is what it looks like. Still need to make some brackets so the cooler matches the lines of the lower cowl better.




Here are the parts that I used (click for links):

4x 14x1.5mm to AN-6 fittings

2x  45* AN-6 fittings

2x  Straight AN-6 fittings

  1.5ft of hose

Liked the idea of the nylon hose both for it being super light weight but because it would not fray like crazy when trying to get the hose into the fittings. The fittings I got were specifically designed for the nylon hose. Painted my headers then wrapped with heat tape and then painted again. Wanted to keep as much heat away from the lines as possible, worked great too as you can hold onto the pipe now.