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Author Topic: Any anodizing experts here?  (Read 1661 times)
Slide Panda
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« on: August 13, 2010, 03:30:07 AM »

I've got some rearsets and other billet parts that I'm looking to refinish. I've got basic knowledge of the process (Don't worry, no plans to DIY-it) so my question focuses on having a mix of metals. The rearsets are cycle cat and have (what I think are) brass inserts where there's a pivot point. Besides acting as a barrier for the stripper (going to change colors) and the dye bath, do these brass inserts present potential issues?

And to anyone who has had stuff anodized - any thoughts on prices?  
« Last Edit: August 13, 2010, 03:59:02 AM by yuu » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2010, 04:10:41 AM »

A quick search suggests that brass can be anodized. I'm sure the color would vary from the aluminum, but it doesn't appear to be a deal breaker.
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« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2010, 04:19:59 AM »

I'm sure the color would be different, but it doesn't matter as the brass bits are not seen when everything is assembled. But, that leads to more questions... IE would running brass though the ano process be good or bad for it. If bad... guess I better start finding a way to press them out.

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-Throttle's on the right, so are the brakes.  Good luck.
- '00 M900S with all the farkles
- '08 KTM 690 StupidMoto
- '07 Triumph 675 Track bike.
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« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2010, 06:56:27 AM »

For most of my anodizing, I use a "bright anodizing" process.  Holds up better long-term and looks better.  Problem is not all anodizers can due in part because of the chemicals.  I can't get it done in Washington state -- but I can in Idaho or Oregon.

Remember that when anodizing a part, the metal finish will show.  So if you have scratches, nicks, etc -- they aren't disappearing.  Thus more options:

- get the parts tumbled to put a consistant finish on them
- bead / media blast
- sandpaper and orientation of lines -- years ago it was common to WD40 w/600 grit (streetrods and mtnbike parts)
- polish before anodizing (it will make the part super bright beneath the color)
- chemical polishing (bright finish)

Just ask the anodizer about options.

Cost?  Your biggest cost will be the initial surcharge itself -- thus get a group of friends parts and do at the same time -- it gets cheap in moderate volume.

Once your part is anodized, you can get it laser etched -- call around.  Thus give the laser person AI/PDF or JPG image and they can then etch onto a part.  Pretty common and cheap.
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« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2010, 07:19:06 AM »

Thanks for the tip on looking up bright ano.

I am aware that anything in the metal shows thought, so I'd do some clean up on the worst offenders before having the whole lot resurfaced for consistency.

My past ano experience is related to paintball - and there's a lot of shops that specialize in that field. They usually have a base + per part schema.
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-Throttle's on the right, so are the brakes.  Good luck.
- '00 M900S with all the farkles
- '08 KTM 690 StupidMoto
- '07 Triumph 675 Track bike.
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« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2010, 02:12:43 PM »

I would push the brass inserts out.  I didn't know you could anodize brass (if you can?) but you wouldnt want to anyhow because it would harden it... not what you want for them..

if they are already anodized and your having them redone, you will lose some size in the stripping process.  If brass bushes are loose when when refitting you could loctite them in.
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« Reply #6 on: August 16, 2010, 12:09:42 AM »

 
If  the inserts are brass or even steel i would look at chrome or nickle plate.
This is also a lot more hard wearing. Wink
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