Independent Service? The Desert Desmo Thread

[JJ]

Got my new Trex front triple and fork stand and it is simply awesome! For 150bucks total, it is worth the money...

Here are few pics for fellow NMMR before the forks are removed and shipped for service to Desert Desmo in ABQ AKA Scott & Stuart:

[DonJuanDucati]

Question: so just today I started getting a silver-greyish grease on my pressure plate and clutch cover and it's dripping down onto the case and getting everywhere. Did I explode a bearing or something?

[Cloner]

There's no grease in there anywhere except inside the sealed release bearing.  Dismount the pressure plate and see if it's intact.  It's pressed into the pressure plate and the little "button" that sits atop the actuator rod from the left side of the engine (that goes between the pressure plate and the slave cylinder) is stuck inside it.

The good news is, if that's your problem they're quite inexpensive!

To dismount the pressure plate, first remove the clutch cover using a 5mm hex key.  You only need to pull four bolts to do that.  If you see six screw heads pay attention to which ones actually hold the cover...two of the long ones just go through the cover without holding it or sit beneath it (and you won't be able to see them...so you'll only see the four you need to remove).  Then using a 4mm hex key remove the screws holding the spring retainers.  You can then dismount the pressure plate.  While you're in there inspect the clutch plates and clean out any superfluous clutch dust.


To replace the bearing set the pressure plate on couple of small bits of wood or something similar so that you can drive the bearing out.  Drive the button out of the bearing, then drive the bearing out of the pressure plate.  It'll only go one way, so you can't mess it up!  You can drive these with a hammer and a brass drift, or similar.

To reinstall, the only trick is in the orientation of the pressure plate.  Look at the outside of the plate and find the spring cup with the arrow on it.  It'll usually be to the outside (radially) of the cup.  Also, look at the bosses that the spring retainer screws thread into.  One of them will have a groove machined across it.  Make sure the cup with the arrow is on the boss with the groove when you reassemble.  Put the springs in the cups.  Put the screws through the retainers and screw them in hand tight.  Reinstall the cover and you're ready to ride.

[DonJuanDucati]

Thanks.  I was planning on pulling the pressure plate this weekend. Fortunately I don't think much grease got on the friction material, since the clutch wasn't slipping.

[Raux]

Justa wierd odd thought
could he have a seal leak behind the clutch hub and the oil is mixing with clutch dust
either that or the clutch rod oring?

[Duck-Stew]

Justa wierd odd thought
could he have a seal leak behind the clutch hub and the oil is mixing with clutch dust
either that or the clutch rod oring?

Also possible, but that bearing is the usual culprit (IME).

[nicrosato]

I have a question for the Desert Desmonians

I need to have my fuel tank welded on the bottom: It's seeping fuel where the flange theat mounts to the frame is tacked to the tank.

I assume the proper thing to do is remove the fuel pump from inside the tank before I take it to the welder. It appears that removing the pump means removing the filler cap assembly first.

Am I correct on all this?

[Duck-Stew]

I have a question for the Desert Desmonians

I need to have my fuel tank welded on the bottom: It's seeping fuel where the flange theat mounts to the frame is tacked to the tank.

I assume the proper thing to do is remove the fuel pump from inside the tank before I take it to the welder. It appears that removing the pump means removing the filler cap assembly first.

Am I correct on all this?

Yes on all of it.  You'll need a 2mm allen wrench to remove the fuel filler cap base plate.  That will allow you to access the innards of the tank.  Be wary of the fuel lines that they're compaitble with being INSIDE the tank and resistant to fuel on the outside of the fuel hose.  Also, the 2x vent hoses will need to be replaced.  No questions.  If they aren't and they break (they do), they fall into the fuel and create a siphon effect which will relieve your gas tank of ~ 1/2 of it's contents.  (ask me how I know...)

[nicrosato]

Thank you, Mr. Duck. I now have another purpose in life.

[NFJ79]

Scott and Stu,

My wife's 2009 Kawi Ninja 500r dies when she's riding.  She tells me it always dies on her way home on Paseo at the same location.  She thinks it haunted lol.  I think the carbs need a good cleaning.  I stabil the bike during the winter months and I've tried running a can of seafoam with no luck.  I have no idea how to work on a carb bike but I'd like to learn. What would it cost for you guys to take a look at it?  I was maybe thing I could pull the carbs off and take them in to have cleaned.  LMK.

Thanks,
Nick

[Cloner]

I can usually get through a set of carbs in around two hours ($150) if they don't need any parts.  You'll need to adjust throttle balance once they're back on the bike.  Can you do that?

[NFJ79]

I have no idea how to do that.  I'm a complete noob when it comes to carbs.  I'll do some research on the ex500 forums.  I feel confident taking it apart and putting back together.  Tuning and adjusting I'll like to learn.

[NFJ79]

Did some more research and it turns out to be vapor lock.  Should be a cheap and easy fix.

[Cloner]

Yep....just addressed the same issue on Nic's Monster.  Yearwood keeps reflective fuel line sleeve if you need some.

[Zaster]

Scott,
Thanks for the new front shoe my beast chewed up after only 1,800 miles 
...and showing me how to bleed my clutch, what a difference it made