Stripped...

[alibaba]

Common problem with using an easy out is to drill too small a hole and use too small an easy out which is then more prone to breakage.  Then you are really screwed.  I would drill the largest hole that my off center beginnings allow me and use the largest easy out I can fit in there.  If the threads get 'buggered', is there any reason this hole can not be drilled out and tapped for the next larger size fastener?

[Monsterlover]

Or packed with jb weld then redrilled and tapped the same size.

[the_Journeyman]

Common problem with using an easy out is to drill too small a hole and use too small an easy out which is then more prone to breakage.  Then you are really screwed.  I would drill the largest hole that my off center beginnings allow me and use the largest easy out I can fit in there.  If the threads get 'buggered', is there any reason this hole can not be drilled out and tapped for the next larger size fastener?

This is pretty much what did.  The easy out is making progress, but still leaving stuff behind.  Since I've removed the core, and there's a little space past the end of the bolt, I've sprayed PB down in the hole with the hopes it helps.  Basically, I'm at the threads on one side with the easy out and have about 1.5 mil of material at the thickest on the other. 

[Duck-Stew]

If you go too far, that hole can be filled with welded aluminum and then filed flat, re-drilled and re-tapped.  But, sounds like you're making good progress!

[the_Journeyman]

I like the sound of that Stew, but have zero welding experience and no welder.  Lets hope I can rattle the remnants out with the easy out (using diameter only slightly smaller than the bolt) and clean up the threads.

JM

[Jarvicious]

I like the sound of that Stew, but have zero welding experience and no welder. 
snip
JM

It would be a pretty cool story to tell though.  You know, about how you rode the bike down to the welding shop and suicide shifted by hand all the way there.   

[the_Journeyman]

Just a thought here.  Since I'd rather get the broken pieces to move, is it would it be possible to use my manual impact driver + easy-out to knock it loose?  On the drill, the easy-out is just chewing up the remains and I'd rather break them loose.

[Speeddog]

I wouldn't use an impact driver on an EZ-Out.

If the threads do get buggered, it can be refurbished with an insert.

[ducpainter]

Just a thought here.  Since I'd rather get the broken pieces to move, is it would it be possible to use my manual impact driver + easy-out to knock it loose?  On the drill, the easy-out is just chewing up the remains and I'd rather break them loose.

Did you understand what I was describing with the angled punch?

That will do exactly what you want.

[the_Journeyman]

Not sure about the angle. 

Am I hitting the punch straight on against the remaining bolt piece?  Punch ground to help rotate the bolt piece or to pry between the case and the bolt piece?

JM

[ducpainter]

Not sure about the angle. 

Am I hitting the punch straight on against the remaining bolt piece?  Punch ground to help rotate the bolt piece or to pry between the case and the bolt piece?

JM

Typically a punch is ground flat at the tip in relation to the striking surface. Grind a 1/8 or 3/16 one at a 45 degree angle.

Take the tip and use it to get behind the edge of the remains and push it away from the case. If you start at the thin edge it will fold in and make the thicker part fit into the space available.

[the_Journeyman]

Nice, got it!  i'll give it a shot!  Thanks!

JM