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Author Topic: Trailtech Vapor Complete Rolling Write-Up  (Read 52821 times)
Drunken Monkey
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« Reply #60 on: January 14, 2011, 02:57:32 PM »



This is how my bike is wired. In theory it'll work with other bikes of the same year, and should only require a small alteration for older bikes (you'll need to wire in the tach line yourself since it doesn't feed into the connector)

I'll also confess I don't actually have the low-fuel warning connected. For some reason it wasn't working, could be my low fuel sender is busted :/



This is if you aren't using the motogadget pressure sensor and just want to use the stock "on/off" style one your bike already has.

And no, you can't wire in your bike's existing temp sensors as they are calibrated completely differently.

Also all dashed lines indicate optional connections. I went ahead and got all the sensors connected because, well... in for a penny in for a pound.

I can't see it being THAT different from the Trailtech one, should be relatively easy to transfer the design.

Different connectors on the older bikes. If I could find a guide to the pins on the newer style connectors I could do a similar write up.
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Artful
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« Reply #61 on: January 17, 2011, 02:41:20 PM »

Ok, here's the final test fit of the windscreen with neoprene R/C car fuel line as trim.





Now here comes the part that separates the men from the boys, wiring it up. I'll preface this section by saying that if you have NEVER soldering anything, enlist a friend for soldering the main harness connector. The pins are very close together and demand a bit of precision to solder correctly. That said, I did this is less than an hour with a sleepy puppy trying to cuddle with me every chance she got for me to sit still.

For the job you're going to want a low wattage iron (I used my 25watt) and hair thin solder (I used .022).

Start out by soldering the wire to the designated pin from the schematic I posted earlier. An armature such as this one will free up your hands. I'd venture to say this job could not be completed without one.





Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the soldered connection. You can pick up heat shrink from any electronics supply store, the web, or in a pinch Radio Shack. The stuff I had laying around was a bit thick for the job, I could have made life a bit easier on myself by buying shrink for a higher gauge.



Use your trusty Bic to apply some heat and voila, a well insulated connection.



Now... do this a lot more. One VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Start from the center of the harness connector. Don't start on the edges and work your way in or you'll have no way of getting the iron on the inner pins. You'll eventually end up with this



I marked each wire so I could easily identify it without having to see the harness clearly. Also, the little wire leader will allow you infinitely more room to work than trying to wire up your entire schematic directly to the pins. Multiple splices with the Trailtech connectors and such in the way would make a difficult soldering job even harder.

TIPS: When you shrink the tubing with your lighter, it's possible you will get carbon on the adjacent pins. Wipe it off with a rag or you will get weak connections.

I used 18 awg wire. Any thicker and I don't think I would have been able to fit the wires so close together.

Call me paranoid but after I wired the 12v constant power and ground I went out to the garage and plugged the connector in. I used a bulb tester to make sure my orientation was right before I soldered any more wires. Use the old carpenter's adage, measure twice cut once. To get this thing done and realize it was upside down... I probably would have set the bike on fire and moved to Mexico.
« Last Edit: January 17, 2011, 02:52:53 PM by Artful » Logged

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« Reply #62 on: January 17, 2011, 04:06:14 PM »

Beautiful! You might be able to avoid the carbon deposits from the lighter by using a heat gun or hairdryer to shrink the tubing...guess it depends on the type of tubing.

I also noticed that your Trailtech gets wired directly to the coil. I wonder what the stock dash uses to read the RPM...
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« Reply #63 on: January 17, 2011, 10:50:01 PM »

I also noticed that your Trailtech gets wired directly to the coil. I wonder what the stock dash uses to read the RPM...

A signal wire that is out of range for the Trailtech.

So far so good for the most part. Need to check factory wiring though, the fuel light comes on but doesn't go back off like the factory gauge is (full tank). Oil pressure and neutral are working like a charm.

Also, there are going to a few revisions to the schematic. Tach needs a reference ground and speedo is acting wonky. Haven't hardwired it yet, waiting to get an email back from TT. Their standard design uses a separate speedo cable with a magnet so it might need a ground reference as well. Any insight is appreciated.
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« Reply #64 on: January 17, 2011, 11:24:36 PM »

Not sure what type of speed signal the Trailtech requires, but it seems the Motogadget is not compatible with the speed sensor on my S2R (Hall sensor). I will have to use the sensor that they provided with the Motogadget (dry reed contact triggered by magnetic field).
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« Reply #65 on: January 18, 2011, 04:35:53 AM »

My reference ground for the tach signal is the aluminum battery box I made. The coils are attached to it, if ti matters. The important thing to have a reliable tach signal was to put a resistance (470K or 1M Ohm I can't remember) in line on the wire.

As for the speedo, the stock TrailTech "sensor" is made of metal with metal bolts attaching it to the frame, so maybe that is the ticket...

Cheers and keep up the good stuff, once you're done this will have to go to the how-to section!! waytogo
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« Reply #66 on: January 18, 2011, 11:57:41 AM »

Was there no room on the plug to use crimped female pins on all the wires?
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« Reply #67 on: January 18, 2011, 02:51:26 PM »

Was there no room on the plug to use crimped female pins on all the wires?

Not sure I'm following you. If you mean to crimp the wires to the pins using a butt connector or similar, no way, the pins are far too short to get a crimp on them. If that isn't what you meant please clarify?
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« Reply #68 on: January 18, 2011, 03:00:50 PM »

i think duc head meant something like this:

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Drunken Monkey
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« Reply #69 on: January 18, 2011, 03:42:49 PM »

i think duc head meant something like this:



Yeah. This job's a nightmare (as you are discovering) without something like this to help.

Me? I buy my connectors pre-soldered. I'm lazy that way.
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« Reply #70 on: January 18, 2011, 04:05:26 PM »

Yeah. This job's a nightmare (as you are discovering) without something like this to help.

Me? I buy my connectors pre-soldered. I'm lazy that way.

Would you then solder those connectors to the harness to keep from coming apart?

I might try those connectors along with an electrically insulated potting compound to hold them together. It would seal the water out as well.
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« Reply #71 on: January 18, 2011, 04:21:00 PM »

The pins on the terminal are far too short for that type of connector. They're really designed for surface mounting through a PCB. The soldering wasn't a nightmare, just challenging.

Still stumped on the fuel sensor being grounded with a full tank...
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« Reply #72 on: January 18, 2011, 04:46:02 PM »

Read the fuel level backwards  Huh?  drink
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« Reply #73 on: January 18, 2011, 04:47:08 PM »

Still stumped on the fuel sensor being grounded with a full tank...

I'm having the same problem. On my model it's not grounded, but it's showing that it passes current when the tank is full.

I can't figure out if it's a bad sender or I'm reading the diagram wrong or it's just got a high resistance rather than infinite resistance (at least until the tank is low)

 Tongue
« Last Edit: January 18, 2011, 04:52:20 PM by Drunken Monkey » Logged

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« Reply #74 on: January 18, 2011, 04:54:22 PM »

BTW: My diagram has the zener diode backwards. The zener is there to only let current flow once the voltage goes above 9v (in an attempt to get around the problem I described above)
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