Ok, so I've read every thread on this board and many others about the Trailtech Vapor and decided that it is the right solution for Phase 8 or so of Operation Take-Shit-Off-the-Bike. I've never been a fairing guy, and after installing the dual headlights from Monsterparts it became clear that the stock gauges were just too big and stuck up too far. I looked at lowering them, replacing them with smaller options, but all the Motogadget and similar products were ridiculously expensive and limited my options with idiot lights, etc.
The goal of this thread is to document the ENTIRE Trailtech Vapor process, from ordering to install. I will update it as quickly as possible and will try to answer any questions that arise along the way. Any and all insight is appreciated as well, as I'm almost guaranteed to booger up the process at one point or another.
So, here goes nothing.
The Bike2007 Monster 695
Looks great except for...
Those big honkin' gauges sticking out above everything.
Phase 1 - Orderinghttp://www.trailtech.net/vapor.html
I ordered the Stealth kit as I didn't want the goofy Vapor font on my bike, and I ride a Dark Monster so silver looks a bit out of place.
I emailed Trailtech support and asked them which kit to buy. They suggest the 752-600 kit, so that's what I ordered.
Two important notes on that: The 752-600 kit DOES include the proper tach wire, but comes with a radiator hose fitting as a temp gauge, which obviously doesn't do much good on an air cooled bike. I emailed their support again and they are shipping me out the correct temp wire FREE of charge (Typically $30 + ship).
Their support has been absolutely great to work with so far. Make sure to note you need an aircooled temp sensor for your order AND what NGK part # plug your bike uses.
I also ordered the Instrument Surround for the gauge so I didn't lose all my idiot lights, or at least the ones that matter. I chose to configure mine with: Neutral, turn signals, oil pressure, and fuel.
The unit itself is fairly small, about half the total real estate of the stock clocks. It is also much thinner, which is going to allow me to nestle it down just past the triples and above the headlights, nearly out of sight for anyone not riding the motorcycle. Here are two pics for size reference:
I may spray it Matte Black at some point, the gloss isn't quite what I'm going for and fingerprints a bit easily.
Shipping was fast and free, two days from CA to MD. All parts arrived packaged well and without damage.
Phase Two: Flashing the ECUNext I'm sending my ECU to Houston Superbikes
http://www.desmoporsche.com (formerly Desmo Porsche) to have the Immobilizer deleted and flashed to DP Race spec. I'm really only interested in the Immo delete, but I figure a few extra ponies and a better fuel curve can't hurt.
The process is as follows: Pull ECU, ship to HS, get billed, ECU ships back, reinstall. I will document that portion of the process as I get there.
That's where I'm at right now. I get frustrated when I find incomplete posts on the web so I'm going to make an effort to make this as picture and video intense as possible every step of the way. I need you guys to keep pestering me so I keep at it!
- Ted
UPDATE 12/27/10So after my buddy finally passed his motorcycle license exam I can finally up the bike up until the weather warms up. That means time to pull out the ECU.
It's a mind-numbingly easy process. Takes 15 minutes even when taking pictures and with numb fingers.
First, prop up your gas tank with the well designed, rock solid tank prop rod found under your seat... Just kidding, grab a hunk of wood.
After that is up you have great access to the task at hand.
Before you start removing parts all willy nilly let's prevent your ECU from being fried and remove the negative battery cable. Make sure you remove the wire with the terminal on it AND the main negative cable with the gold connector.
Now that that's done with you can start disconnecting the two ECU wiring harnesses.
Press down on the center clip, and rotate the hold down straps toward the center. You will have to give them a little extra push to get them completely released.
This is what the loose clips look like, they must be pushed past this position to be completely removed.
Once they're both released, you can pull the ECU harnesses off easily.
Now that they're disconnected, you just have to remove the bolts holding down the ECU (5mm hex).
Nothing special about these bolts except that the one one left holds down the ECU grounding wire. That will be important during replacement.
Once those two bolts are connected the ECU will come off in your hand.
The ECU got shipped out on Christmas Eve, so it will be a little while before I get it back, but when I do I'll update again with instructions on how to replace it and take care of the TPS reset.
Update 12/30/10Additional Parts OrderedTo install the gauges two additional electrical connections are required, the receptacle for the stock gauge cluster so you don't have to hack into the harness (killing your resale) and a turn signal relay since the stock one is actually built into the gauges. Here is the information to order both these parts:
Dash Harness Receptacle: Tyco Part No. 6437288-6
http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/bin/TE.Connect?C=1&M=BYPN&TCPN=6437288-6&RQPN=6437288-6Turn Signal Flasher Relay: Superbright LEDs Part No. G215EB
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/G215-EB.htmBoth parts are on order and in transit.
