Moving controls. What is easier?

[Heath]

So a while ago when I got my Rizoma sportline grips I cut my handle bars shorter. I did this so there wouldn't be a gap between the grips and the bar ends..  For those who don't know the sportlines are a little smaller then normal grips. So instead of moving my controls I just cut the bars.  Now I decided to switch to a G2 Throttle Tube and normal grips.  Not sure why just want to switch it up I may go back.

The question:  What is easier? Drilling new holes for my controls or grinding down the posts on the controls and just move them in.
One thing I am worried about is the controls staying put once I move them.

Opinions are welcome.

[Veloce-Fino]

Many people will recommend grinding the nubs and using tape or something else to hold the controls in place.

IMHO, I wouldn't want my controls spinning around the bars braking hard into a turn....that could kill you.

I'd drill the holes an do it proper.

If your geometry and skills with a protractor are weak you can use a sharpie or even nail polish (it's sticky, don't ask questions ) and paint the end of the nubs.

Without touching the nubs to the bar position them over the bars exactly where you want then press the nubs onto the bars and you will have a perfect template for where to drill. Dont use too large of a bit.

[minnesotamonster]

How can the control switches moving around a bit end up killing you? Just curious.

[Veloce-Fino]

How can the control switches moving around a bit end up killing you? Just curious.

The same way I wrecked on my little 70 when I was younger. The throttle is held in place by the nubs. Without them the entire right side controls can spin around the bar.

There is quite a bit of pressure on the controls when braking.

Controls spin around the bar, hand slips over/under the bars, other hand still on the bars turns the wheel sending you into a violent wreck...

Pretty simple.

[minnesotamonster]

I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure there aren't any nubs for the throttle housing.

[Veloce-Fino]

I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure there aren't any nubs for the throttle housing.

There are two on the right hand controls. I remember drilling holes for both.

One under throttle control and one under the control switch.

#20 and #25 each have a nub.

[DarkStaR]

Cutting the nubs is easier.  

The throttle will not move.  It's solid once tightened.

As for the switches, it all depends on you to get it right.

HOWEVER:  If you know you're going to get it right the first time for the last time, I would drill the bars...but this is not how modding usually works

On my first set-up, I drilled the bars.  It was perfect.  Then I switched to radial masters, and the that required moving a bunch of stuff.  Holes would of slightly overlapped.

[xcaptainxbloodx]

if you grind down the nubs then use ~3 wraps of duct tape under the controls they wont spin. the only danger is in thickening the bar to much by using to many layers and over tightening the controls which would strip the plastic threads and ruin your parts.  wrap the bars, tighten the bolts then try and twist the controls themselves, wrench really hard and if it moves add more tape or tighten the bolts. the force you exert here will be far more than your throttle.

ive run my current bike like this for over a year (including track time.) and haven't noticed any slippage. the only way the controls would spin under throttle would be if you ran it absurdly loose and then twisted the throttle beyond wide open or forcibly closed it beyond its resting point. not likely to happen, even during spirited riding.

IF it did start to twist it would be a small matter to hold the assembly with your thumb and manipulate the throttle with your fingers until you could safely pull over.

[Veloce-Fino]

IF it did start to twist it would be a small matter to hold the assembly with your thumb and manipulate the throttle with your fingers until you could safely pull over.

That's reason enough for me to drill them.

[Turf]

another vote for nubs, you wont have a problem

did mine 56k miles ago

[DarkStaR]

ok, for arguments sake, the throttle did move during a WOT twist for some reason,.. so what, once you let off it'll spring back closed.  

I really don't see where the paranoia is coming from?!?!?

[Mojo S2R]

Shaved the nubs on mine back in 2007.  Haven't had any issues and only needed some electrical tape on the left side switch controls.  All others tightened down without issue and don't move.  My son-in-law thought it odd that those nubs were even there.  He's been riding a lot longer than I (since he was a kid riding off road motorcycles) and he said none of his had them and that he never had issues.  The two Suzukis (one off-road, one motard) he has now doesn't have them.  I prefer the shaved nubs route because I can't leave well enough alone and keep playing with different positions and am even changing to Clubman style fully adjustable bars shortly and with the infinite position possibilities I am glad to not have to stick with one final position or having to get another set of handlebars if I will be drilling multiple sets of holes into them.  I would figure that fully adjustable clip-ons would be the same issue unless you find the one perfect position, but how would you test that without shaving the nubs so you can actually test it out till you find the perfect position, settling with the one you picked, or drilling multiple holes till you find it? 

[Heath]

Alright looks like shaving the knobs is the way I will probably go.  I also want to try flipping my bars at some point.  So no need to make even more holes. Once I figure out how I am going to set up reliable power to the new garage I will give it a go.

[scduc]

I've removed the "nubs" on a couple of bikes and never had any problems. Most people who run clip-ons remove the nubs also. For the most part, the stock control positions do not really work for many people.

[hackers2r]

Shaved my nubs and although the switches can move if you try hard, the controls haven't moved on me once.