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Author Topic: Making pasta with the kid's college $$: New header & Intake for GT1000!  (Read 5878 times)
Dietrich
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« on: November 13, 2010, 09:42:00 AM »

Another installment in “making the GT mine”…or maybe just more not being able to leave things alone. I like to think of this bike as an old Erector set, constantly able to be changed.  Sometimes needing to be changed, or improved.  I’m starting to wonder why I bought the GT in the first place, so many things about it I have always wanted to change.  Maybe I saw the potential!  Anyway, one thing that always bugged me was the double wall headers.  Heavy & obviously not the true diameter of the header. Too shiny. I’ve been lusting after a set of spaghetti headers and finally picked up a set from a ducati.ms forum member in Sweden.  They arrived quickly and I set about fitting them up.


 
The headers came in a small box in 4 pieces with some damage (that I knew about when purchasing).  The assembled set would have used 5 different joints held with springs.  I wanted to clean things up a bit so I carefully fit everything up, cutting down a couple joints where necessary to make sure there was enough clearance through the swingarm, etc., and tack welded the joints where I wanted them.  Was able to get out a couple dents using a pipe expander tool.  I also finally got the chance to use some cool retro finned header mounts I’ve been saving for a couple years!





Next was fitting up the stock Termignoni cans to the new headers.  A coworker who has experience welding up headers for race cars and bikes gave me a couple u-bends and fittings to play with.  Good thing, because I had to use some tight bends to clear the chain and expansions on one fitting fit the header perfectly.  I mocked everything up, and even nervously cut off the narrow tips of my beloved Termi pipes...

At one point I considered building up my own set of headers from scratch.  “No problem” I thought…”just get some pre-made bends and start cutting and fitting…”   Yeah right.  This stuff is harder than it looks!



Schrapnel:



I dropped off the header parts with my co-worker to get the stainless seams tig welded up.

Of course the new header was eventually going to require a new dyno tuned map for the Power Commander.  Which means I might as well work on the intake while I’m at it.  A new Ducshop Hyperstack kit was definitely in order.


(Can’t wait for that NASCAR performance! haha )



I made a couple brackets to hold the coils and case breather. The throttle control valve filter was mounted directly to the throttle control valve.  Popped the plastic covers off the horns and they were mounted back-to back on the stock airbox bracket.  I didn’t want the filters flopping about putting added stress on the rubber intake boots (their only support) so I added some safety wire to secure them to the frame.


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Dietrich
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« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2010, 09:42:21 AM »

Got the pipes back all welded up and cleaned them up with emery cloth.  They’re not pretty.  But they are cool. I like the form follows function aspect.  I used 3 stainless band clamps to get everything together.  The cans are mounted about 4” further forward than they were on the stock headers.  Everything looks more compact. 

The new headers are 5 pounds lighter than stock.  Not sure how much the airbox saved.  I also recently retrofitted an aluminum kickstand from a Monster that saved 1 pound over the steel.



Oooh, almost forgot… I re-routed the starter and oil temp wires to clean up the right side a bit (sorry about the dirty motor…55,000 miles and it needs some major detailing):











Sound is great. You can definitely hear the snort from the intake!  It’s very loud when you get on it. Feels very peppy, but there is a bit of a flat spot that needs tuning out.  I have an appointment for dyno tuning next Saturday, so will definitely post up the results from that next week!



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zarn02
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« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2010, 05:29:57 PM »

Looks good! waytogo

(Also, where does one find a pin-wrench oil filler cap? I think it's the first I've seen that.)
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Dietrich
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« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2010, 05:49:55 PM »

That cap is a Rizoma piece...not sure if they're still available.  They are a pain to tighten/remove, but that's the price ya gotta pay I guess. Smiley
« Last Edit: November 13, 2010, 06:11:18 PM by Dietrich » Logged

zarn02
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« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2010, 06:02:22 PM »

That cap is a Rizoma piece...not sure if they're still available.  They are a pain to tighten/remove, but that's the rpice ya gotta pay I guess. Smiley

Better hope you never forget your pin wrench if you're on the road and need to add oil. Wink
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« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2010, 07:01:24 PM »

I see your finally got your dream! I remembering discussing making these things with you....On second thought now, no way! Fitting that many bends together SUCKS! Well sir they do look awesome and I am stoked you finally got them!
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Dietrich
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« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2010, 03:23:39 PM »

Well, I promised to post up the dyno results so here goes...



Didn't get the numbers I was hoping for considering the effort and cost of theses mods.  BUT...the bike runs REALLY strong now.  I had an advanced map done on the PCIII, so each cylinder has it's own map.  The maps are quite a bit different from each other and helps smooth things out.  The tuner, Mark Ledesma @ GoAZ in Scottsdale) put about 40 miles on my bike on the dyno!  The bike is smooth and strong.  Intake noise is actually quieter now.  I took the bike on a couple hundred mile ride today and it's a blast.  Really smooths out at ~5000 RPM, throttle transitions are smooth, and it just pulls hard at all speeds.



Here's a quick vid of two passes:
YouTube - GT1000 Spaghetti Header Dyno Run

The peak horsepower is actually down from my last map 2 years ago, and torque is slightly up.  He said the baseline was about 82 HP. Not sure if it's just different days, different dynos, tired engine, or what.  Can't really complain...the thing runs great!

New map:



Old map for comparison:



My peak torque was 67.61 ft.lbs.  I have not done any internal engine work except for a lightened flywheel.  Stock cams, compression, and displacement.  

So, over $1000 for about 3hp.  Guess I need to take it back to Friday Night Drags and see if I can break the 12's.  Or else I should just save my money for a scooter.... Cheesy


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Howie
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« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2010, 08:31:52 PM »

How the bike runs is more important than the numbers.
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Monster Dave
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« Reply #8 on: November 24, 2010, 08:31:59 AM »




Does that tight knot in the pipe inhibit the flow of exhaust in a way that would effect performance?
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Raux
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« Reply #9 on: November 24, 2010, 08:45:03 AM »

actually that looks like 1 of 2 crossover pipes

probably could have accomplished about the same effect with a fat single tube in the middle of those. but it might be a tuning issue.
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DarkStaR
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« Reply #10 on: November 24, 2010, 09:45:58 AM »

Does that tight knot in the pipe inhibit the flow of exhaust in a way that would effect performance?

It a crossover, and it's suppose to increase performance.  

In short, it helps exhaust flow at certain RPMs.
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Monster Dave
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« Reply #11 on: November 24, 2010, 10:07:46 AM »

Aside from style and gnarly cool looks, how does rerouting exhaust help more than just having a strait tube?

Serious question - I'm certainly no mechanical engineer!  waytogo
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Raux
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« Reply #12 on: November 24, 2010, 10:13:44 AM »

the crossover helps work the exhaust flow on the exhausts by using the two cylinder exhaust flows to work together. it also helps avoid exhaust waves going back up the pipe.

a 2 into 2 with no crossover has to be tuned different to avoid the exhaust pulses. I've met a guy that uses shoe polish to find out where to cut his 2 into 2 pipes for the proper tune for the drag strip. or you can use stepped headers to avoid the pulses.
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Monster Dave
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« Reply #13 on: November 24, 2010, 10:21:19 AM »

the crossover helps work the exhaust flow on the exhausts by using the two cylinder exhaust flows to work together. it also helps avoid exhaust waves going back up the pipe.

a 2 into 2 with no crossover has to be tuned different to avoid the exhaust pulses. I've met a guy that uses shoe polish to find out where to cut his 2 into 2 pipes for the proper tune for the drag strip. or you can use stepped headers to avoid the pulses.

Interesting. It must be an interesting process doing a tight tuning job.




Dietrich, this is a great pic:




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dbran1949
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« Reply #14 on: November 24, 2010, 11:02:12 AM »

. or you can use stepped headers to avoid the pulses.

In some cases if the pipe length and crossovers are tuned correctly the negative pressure wave that reflects off the open end of the pipe hits the cylinder just before the exhaust valve closes  this creates a slightly negative pressure in the cylinder which helps a little more fuel-air mix to get in on the intake stroke
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