Biggest rip off in the world.

[muskrat]

we should apply the same logic to the charcoal canister removal kit that was some $30+

[djrashonal]

I used to use copper terminals when doing car audio installations, capacitors, distribution blocks, amp kits, etc. You can order stuff online or go somewhere like myer emco and get some heavy gauge wire and crimp some terminals on it, and be done with it. 4 ga is what i used for distro blocks and can be found for about a buck a ft.


Might be able to use one of these:

http://www.jambrass.com/copper_lugs_copper_terminals.htm
http://www.conexmetals.com/copperterminals.htm
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=copper+terminal&_sacat=0&LH_Price=..200%40c&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=ducati+wheel&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

[DarkStaR]

With 4AWG, it seems the solenoid will end up being the bottle neck.  Anyone know how many amps the solenoid can pass through it?



Although not 4AWG, I got a bunch of 6 AWG wire and connectors, and a few completed starter reroute wires if anyones intrested.  I can do custom lengths also.

FEATURES:
• Finely stranded tinned copper conductor (Type III)
• Color coded PVC insulation (See chart for specifics per gauge)
• Temperature Range: -20°C to 105°C
• Voltage Rating: 600V
• Resistant To: Acid, Alkalis, Abrasion, Flame, Gasoline, Oil, Ozone, Moisture, Fungus
• Applications: Connecting battery or generator to switch, starter or ground Windlass, Inverter or any high amperage equipment

COMPLIANCES:
UL Standard 1426 (BC-5W2)
AWM 1232/1283 (6-2 AWG)
AWM 1232/1284 (1 AWG - 4/0)
CSA: TEW
ABYC: E-8.14, E-9.14
Coast Guard: 33 CFR part 183 Subpart I
NMMA



Stock on the right

[junior varsity]

i used some welding cable for one of the large gauge grounds (motor to frame) redirected to beef up more parts of the electrical system, and i've got the powerlet cables for the other 3.

[ducatiz]

MotoElectric has similar kits for $75 for most bikes.  I have the Powerlet kit on my SS and it works great, but the MotoElectric kit is far superior -- better wire, better swedging.

One of the things I do NOT like about the Powerlet kit is the connections are all 0 deg type.  I'd like the battery connects to be 90 deg type like the factory wiring.  The Motoelectric ones are 90 deg type.

I imagine the Powerlet will last as long as I own the bike, but having completely sealed swedges and covered ends, along iwth 90 deg terminal connects would be much nicer imho.

[Monsterlover]

For the DIY'ers-
I run a TINY battery in my 900ss track bike (literally a step up from 4 D cells) and it was always 50/50 for starting or killing the battery first.

I upgraded the cables with some car audio stuff (2awg) and connectors the shop impact crimped for me.  100% improvement hot or cold engine.

If you want to make your own cable ends there's a really cheap way that i've used on cars before (trunk mount battery setups for example)

Copper pipe from the hard ware store.  1/2ID stuff is what you want.

Cut a piece (guess on the length)

Smash half of it in a vise (or under a hammer) Drill a hole for your battery bolt, bend to shape.

Clean and put your wire in the round side, crimp it as best you can (impact crimper is best but a punch and hammer will do) Heat it up and fill it with solder (flux core worked for me)

viola!

[Monster Dave]