Riding on gravel

Started by Adamm0621, December 07, 2010, 12:01:04 PM

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Timmy Tucker




A few simple mods should do the trick  [evil]
1999 M750 - "Piggy"
2007 S4RS

ODrides

The absolute best piece of advice is eyes up, head up, look ahead.  I took a dirt riding class and it's amazing what you can drive through by looking where you want to go.

bevel

2003 SV650
Eventually I'll have a Ducati

Tekneek

Quote from: Sad Panda on December 08, 2010, 05:41:08 AM
When on stuff like that I usually forgo the front brake, keeps the front from being a little less squirrely.  Standing on the pegs, or hovering over the seat will help mellow some of the shimmy of the bike being transmitted to you

+1 on both accounts!  I am forced onto gravel roads regularly and also barely ever touch the front brake or use it VERY lightly if needed. Performance street tires just beg for front end wash outs while braking on loose gravel. Standing allowing the bike to float around beneath you can also help in spades. You're also in a much better position to attack if the bike starts doing something stupid. Just think of those GNCC guys ripping through a huge rock garden! Off the seat standing! Great tips by Sad Panda.
You know the thing I hate most about gravel? It's getting the white stone powder all over the tires. If I am feeling especially evil, I'll ride through someone's manicured front lawn to clean the rubber. Usually I'll just go find some techy turns I can lean hard through to wear that junk off!!  Gravel strips are worse than chicken strips!!  [thumbsup]

696DCRider

Can you just ride in the grass next to the driveway.  This could be easier on you.  Just a though.

Tekneek

Quote from: Timmy Tucker on January 08, 2011, 06:51:43 PM



A few simple mods should do the trick  [evil]

That thing is a MONSTER...literally. I'll take two.

Dirty Duc

Float.   Stand up on the pegs, guide the bars, take your SO... washboard apparently has "interesting" effects.  :o

I have ridden on the dirt/terrible-parking-lot-made-of-pea-gravel/my-driveway-made-of-big-gravel... look where you are going, don't get too worried if things are slightly slidey. 

Chris in SCruz

Quote from: Timmy Tucker on January 08, 2011, 06:51:43 PM

[TerraMostro]

A few simple mods should do the trick  [evil]

Nothing quite so radical for me - Next tire change, I'm putting a dualsport tire like the Avon Distanzia in a slightly larger overall diameter on my '99.

http://www.amazon.com/Avon-AM44-Distanzia-Rear-Tire/dp/B001CD5DJ2

..as well as raising the ride height equally F&R as much as possible (hoop frame + no clipons)

Timmy Tucker

Quote from: mergatroyd on February 20, 2011, 09:45:57 PM
...look where you are going, don't get too worried if things are slightly slidey. 

+1

Grandparents have a long gravel driveway that has 2 pretty steep hills and deep gravel. I was so tense the first few times I rode on it, I had to dig the seat cushion outta my ass with a crowbar. I eventually learned to deal with it, now it's nothing.

...relax, loosen your grip. Let the front tire track a little. Don't force it, it's ok.

...I use the rear brake only. Not taking a chance. But that's just me.

...look where you want to go. It's amazing how many situations this will get you out of. It's almost like the bike is hardwired to your brain. It has saved my ass more than once.
1999 M750 - "Piggy"
2007 S4RS

bikepilot

Lots of good advice.  I've raced off road a bunch and done a few hundred miles of gravel on sport bikes.  The key points I think are to stay loose (don't necessarily have your hands loose on the bars, but don't fight ever little movement with your arms), keep your eyes focused ahead and where you want to go.  Don't be nervous when the tires move around and even slide a bit.  On non-paved surfaces this is normal and traction doesn't go away as suddenly as on the street.  Don't be afraid of the throttle or brakes, but be smooth and back off if things start to slide.  Because traction doesn't go away so suddenly if you start to push the front tire a rider with moderately decent skill/response times can correct before it gets out of control (same for the rear, but its even easier).

Also to the extent you can try to keep you weight toward the rear of the bike and off the bars.

In general it will be more stable the faster you go and the motor will be more tractable at lower rpms.
2009 XB12XT
2006 Monster 620 (wife's)
1997 TL1000S
1975 Kawasaki H1 Mach III
2001 CR250R (CO do-it-all bike)
2000 XR650R (dez racer)
2003 KX100 (wife's)
1994 DR250SE (wife's/my city commuter)