No fuel cut off switch?

[speedknot]

First winter with the Monster.  While getting it ready for winter storage I noticed there is no fuel cut off.  Unless someone gives me a good reason why not to put one one, could anyone tell me what size gas line Ducati uses on their bikes?  I usually fill the tank with stabilized gas and run the carbs dry.

[Howie]

Your bike came out of the factory with a vacuum operated fuel cut off



circled, but hard to see, they often fail, usually in the open position.  This part no longer exists on my bike and has been replaced with a manual valve.  The size is 5/16".

IMO, full tank with stabilized gas run through the carbs not drained is the way to go.  If there is no fuel cut off or it is failed in the open position install a cut off.

[speedknot]

Thanks for your input and the time you took to snap a shot of it, howie.  I'm still a bit skeptical about leaving residual fuel in the bowls.  I keep hearing horror stories about fuel system issues after long term storage.  Like you said, it would probably be ok just left in there and being that I use the special Marine Stabil for ethanol fuel, its all the more reason to just leave it, but I would still feel more comfortable installing a cut off and running those carbs dry.

[battlecry]

I thought you guys were talking about a fuel cutoff switch, something that switches off ignition/fuel pump in case of an impact or if the bike turns over.  I put one on my old Alfa, seems like a good idea to have on a bike.

[Howie]

I thought you guys were talking about a fuel cutoff switch, something that switches off ignition/fuel pump in case of an impact or if the bike turns over.  I put one on my old Alfa, seems like a good idea to have on a bike.

It is part of the FI system.  No RPM input, no fuel pump output e3xcept for prime when the key is turned to the run position.

[battlecry]

Yes, Howie, but that means you can still spill it and it might run sideways.  I take so many spills on my enduro it's not funny, and at my, ahem, advancing age, it's getting painful.  That puppy can be buried in sand driven through the roots of h!!! and it will still turn its rear wheel until the kill switch says enough.   I do not think an impact sensor cutoff switch would work well in an enduro, but maybe a tilt sensor would.  Almost makes me want to rig a mercury switch gizmo to the kill switch.

It's off topic, but I think that the GP bikes have a mandatory cutoff sensor/switch.  Maybe it is the BSB or SBKs, not sure now, getting older you see, but I remember Ducati caught some grief when one of its riders (Bayliss?) limped up after spilling it, walked to the still running bike, and was able to clutch it, get back in, and finish the race.    By all accounts it should have stopped after the spill, but the FI/tractioncontrol/enginebraking/ignitionadvance software had that "feature" disabled.  The race bike had no starter, so this recovery was via the missing spec permitted him to finish. 

[ScottRNelson]

It's off topic, but I think that the GP bikes have a mandatory cutoff sensor/switch.  Maybe it is the BSB or SBKs, not sure now, getting older you see, but I remember Ducati caught some grief when one of its riders (Bayliss?) limped up after spilling it, walked to the still running bike, and was able to clutch it, get back in, and finish the race.    By all accounts it should have stopped after the spill, but the FI/tractioncontrol/enginebraking/ignitionadvance software had that "feature" disabled.  The race bike had no starter, so this recovery was via the missing spec permitted him to finish. 

I've seen bikes in AMA Superbike, World Superbike, and MotoGP get dropped, be picked up again, and ridden away if nothing important was broken in the crash.  I haven't seen evidence of any of them having tip-over kill switches on them.

[erkishhorde]

Thanks for your input and the time you took to snap a shot of it, howie.  I'm still a bit skeptical about leaving residual fuel in the bowls.  I keep hearing horror stories about fuel system issues after long term storage.  Like you said, it would probably be ok just left in there and being that I use the special Marine Stabil for ethanol fuel, its all the more reason to just leave it, but I would still feel more comfortable installing a cut off and running those carbs dry.

I just picked up a bottle of Stabil and read the instructions the other day. Doesn't it specifically say to put it in and then run the engine to ensure that treated fuel is everywhere in the system, including the carbs? If you're that insistent about it, you could just drain the carbs instead of trying to run the bike dry.

[speedknot]

I just picked up a bottle of Stabil and read the instructions the other day. Doesn't it specifically say to put it in and then run the engine to ensure that treated fuel is everywhere in the system, including the carbs? If you're that insistent about it, you could just drain the carbs instead of trying to run the bike dry.

Yeah it does say to run it through the system.  Thats just to make sure any standing fuel in the lines and the carb is treated fuel.  Makes perfect sense.  My idea was to drain the carbs completely and just leave the fuel in the tank.  On my old bikes, I always cut the fuel and drained the bowls.  This method had ensured me a perfect start every spring.  I had an issue once when I forgot to do this on my KLR a few years back and ended up having to rebuild the carb.  Had the same issue with my boat.  Once bitten, twice shy.  Don't forget that my machines sit for almost 6 months.

Today, I just took it out to fill the tank and use the Stabil Marine treatment.  Up here in NY its cold as a witches tit.  Brrrr.  I should have winterized it last month.  Anyway, I forgot to install the fuel cut off before I filled the tank and now the tank is too heavy to properly support so now I'll probably just leave it and roll the dice.  I ran the stabil through the system so I "should" be ok.

[Howie]

You could just clamp off a fuel line for the winter.

[Jarvicious]

I was under the impression that there were two different things you needed for long term storage fuel treatment:

Stabil in anything the fuel touches to keep the gas from gumming up and fouling carbs, hoses, petcocks, etc

and....

allowing fuel to touch everything that fuel usually touches to prevent corrosion.  Ethanol has a tendency to attract moisture and moisture and metal generally don't mix.  I think if you stabil your tank, run it for a minute or two to infuse the stabil into all parts of your motor and carbs and let her sit, you'll be just fine. 

I realize the chance of a carb having corrosion issues over winter is slim to none, but I'd just as soon not take any chances. 

[Howie]

I was under the impression that there were two different things you needed for long term storage fuel treatment:

Stabil in anything the fuel touches to keep the gas from gumming up and fouling carbs, hoses, petcocks, etc

and....

allowing fuel to touch everything that fuel usually touches to prevent corrosion.  Ethanol has a tendency to attract moisture and moisture and metal generally don't mix.  I think if you stabil your tank, run it for a minute or two to infuse the stabil into all parts of your motor and carbs and let her sit, you'll be just fine. 

I realize the chance of a carb having corrosion issues over winter is slim to none, but I'd just as soon not take any chances. 

Zakly.