...might have screwed up.

dgm · December 22, 2010, 06:51:43 PM

after pulling my bike apart for powdercoating, I left my handlebars with controls attached hanging from the front of the bike and resting on the front fender. They stayed like this for maybe a week and a half now. today, I picked them up and squeezed the levers just because, and noticed there's no resistance to either lever. I've also got the foot controls removed. I'm probably just paranoid, but thought I'd post what I'd done and see what you all have to say.

Parts are still being powdercoated, so I can't put it all back together yet. thanks for any input in advance!

Privateer · December 22, 2010, 08:08:07 PM

is there any fluid in the resevoirs?

dgm · December 22, 2010, 08:26:37 PM

I think so. This probably sounds dumb, but it's really hard to see through those little windows. I haven't opened them up yet. There was a dribble or two on top of them, but nothing on the garage floor.

Howie · December 22, 2010, 09:55:45 PM

It is indeed difficult seeing the fluid level. If you didn't keep the reservoirs more or less in the same orientation as they were on the bike you probably have air in the master and will need to bleed the brakes. Same for the clutch.

erkishhorde · December 22, 2010, 11:51:20 PM

Just to double check. You've got the calipers still mounted and the brake disks are on, right? Also for the clutch, the slave is still attached to the motor?

dgm · December 23, 2010, 07:15:37 AM

Yes, calipers, discs, and slave are all still attached. good question though!

I was afraid I'd probably introduced air into the system. Oh well... guess I have something interesting to do in the garage today on my first day of vacation! I've never done this before on brakes or clutch side but looking forward to the experience. Doesn't look to be terribly difficult, but any advice before I start?

dgm · December 23, 2010, 02:36:27 PM

UPDATE: Front brakes bled and all seems fine there. I am however having trouble on the clutch side. Doesn't seem to be building any resistance at all.

Howley · December 23, 2010, 03:00:00 PM

I usually take the slave off and put an old spring cap between the piston and the engine to stop it from actuating when you pull the lever. Might be a bad idea but it works for me.

dgm · December 23, 2010, 06:06:25 PM

got it... both sides bled and refilled and all seems good. Lesson learned; don't leave bars with controls hanging upside down for a week

I did put it up on a rear stand to make sure the clutch was engaging/disengaging as it should and noticed something I hadn't before. Note, Pazzo shorties installed. When the clutch lever was fully let out, the chain chattered pretty badly. pulling the lever in slightly stopped it. So, I assumed the adjustment must be off. Turning the adjustment screw ALL the way in seemed to fix the chatter when fully engaged, but also moved the clutch action farther out. Also seemed odd that the adjustment screw needed to be ALL the way in. Just wondered if this chatter had anything to do with the bike being up on the rear stand and not on the road.

Privateer · December 23, 2010, 06:44:46 PM

Quote from: dgm on December 23, 2010, 06:06:25 PM
got it... both sides bled and refilled and all seems good. Lesson learned; don't leave bars with controls hanging upside down for a week

I did put it up on a rear stand to make sure the clutch was engaging/disengaging as it should and noticed something I hadn't before. Note, Pazzo shorties installed. When the clutch lever was fully let out, the chain chattered pretty badly. pulling the lever in slightly stopped it. So, I assumed the adjustment must be off. Turning the adjustment screw ALL the way in seemed to fix the chatter when fully engaged, but also moved the clutch action farther out. Also seemed odd that the adjustment screw needed to be ALL the way in. Just wondered if this chatter had anything to do with the bike being up on the rear stand and not on the road.

with the wheel off the ground and the clutch out, the rear wheel will spin slowly. The way I understand it, there's just enough pressure on the plates to spin the wheel. With the bike's weight on it, it'll hold still.

Howie · December 23, 2010, 07:11:42 PM

You want 1.5-2mm. free play at the lever.

dgm · December 23, 2010, 07:16:41 PM

Quote from: howie on December 23, 2010, 07:11:42 PM
You want 1.5-2mm. free play at the lever.

maybe a silly question, but 1.5-2mm free play at the 'let out' or 'pulled in' position of the lever?

Howie · December 23, 2010, 07:21:46 PM

It is true that there is no such thing as a silly question, well, maybe a question not asked is silly.

When the lever is out turn the screw in or out until you have 1.5-2mm. free play

dgm · December 23, 2010, 07:26:06 PM

Quote from: howie on December 23, 2010, 07:21:46 PM
maybe a question not asked is silly.

agreed! And, as a teacher, I appreciate this even more.

Thanks for all the help.

dgm · December 23, 2010, 09:11:57 PM

Howie,

I just went back out and played with the clutch lever screw based on your recommendation of 1.5-2mm free play and I'm a little unsure still. When I set the clutch lever to have that amount of free play, on the rear stand, when full engaged, the chain jumps around, chatters and shakes the entire bike. this just doesn't seem right to me. To get it to stop, I have to screw the adjuster in almost all the way, which is a far cry from the 1.5-2mm. free play.

So, maybe the chain jumping around, chattering only seems like a problem while on the stand? I love the way these shorty pazzo levers feel, but i definitely want to be sure I've got them adjust correctly.

News:

...might have screwed up.