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Author Topic: 14t Sprocket?  (Read 22442 times)
MadDaddy
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« Reply #15 on: July 31, 2010, 01:16:09 PM »

Raux, did you hook up a PCV or a JuiceBox to your DP ECU? How've you been?
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2009 M696, 14T front sprocket, M1100 bars and riser, DP bar ends, CRG levers, R&G tail tidy, Exan carbon fiber exhaust cans, DP low profile seat, 12v port for charger and TomTom, Motovation frame sliders, axle sliders and fork sliders. LH Euro air shroud with charcoal canister removed. GIPro gear indicator. Rizoma rearsets.
duccarlos
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« Reply #16 on: July 31, 2010, 01:36:29 PM »

Maybe someone should ask the Mods to add a stickie for this mod (pun intended). Many agree that this is the best mod for the money on just about every Monster.
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DucatiTorrey
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« Reply #17 on: July 31, 2010, 07:14:33 PM »

so raux, your going back? i was just about to finally go 14t, still worth it? sounds like it, so many people say its a great mod.
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Raux
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« Reply #18 on: July 31, 2010, 10:49:54 PM »

well a few reasons...

the shop owner i work with is adament about not doing it do to chain wear. and if you think about it in the long run that can get expensive if you keep your bike long term which i am.

another is we are compensating. we're changing the gearing due to a lull in the lower mid range power band. why not try to sort that out instead, i have the DP ECU and will eventually, once i get out of the doghouse for the spending spree, get the PC V. then the port and polish and other changes will be done.

and third... just want to see how fast a 696 can go. if i get the guts. stock gearing with a raised DP ECU RPM limit.

don't get me wrong. it's a great mod.
helps get the bike higher in the rpms quicker where the power is on these bikes. also gives it a more off the line feel making good use of the available torque. but i want t o try something different.
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J5
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« Reply #19 on: July 31, 2010, 11:28:12 PM »

well a few reasons...

the shop owner i work with is adament about not doing it do to chain wear. and if you think about it in the long run that can get expensive if you keep your bike long term which i am.


the 14t mod is for the cheapest easiest thing to do

if it works for you then when you come for chain and sprocket replacement then go +3 on the rear and back to a 15 , same result as going for a 14

how much reduced chain life by a 14 ? far more by lack of chain maintenance imho



another is we are compensating. we're changing the gearing due to a lull in the lower mid range power band. why not try to sort that out instead, i have the DP ECU and will eventually, once i get out of the doghouse for the spending spree, get the PC V. then the port and polish and other changes will be done.

all of that wont make a huge difference to the off the line bottom end of RPM



and third... just want to see how fast a 696 can go. if i get the guts. stock gearing with a raised DP ECU RPM limit.

don't get me wrong. it's a great mod.
helps get the bike higher in the rpms quicker where the power is on these bikes. also gives it a more off the line feel making good use of the available torque. but i want t o try something different.



you could always go to a 16 and a +3 on the rear and have the 15 for other times


most bikes on the market can greatly benefit from a -1 on the front
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i dont care if you have been a mechanic for 10 years doing something for a long time does not make you good at it, take my gf for an example shes been walking for 28 years and still manages to fall over all the time.
Raux
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« Reply #20 on: July 31, 2010, 11:48:10 PM »

all valid points

i went with the lightweight steel sprocket which at the time all i found more was the 46t. but went with the stock 45

yes it is the cheapest mod to do, but if in the long run you maintain the two chains equally, you will end up buying chains more often that with a 15t. how much more often.. i dont know. i'm sure there is a study on chains out there somewhere. i'm going off my friend's experience.

i'm  not racing so i'm not TRYING to see the top end of the bike on the salt flats or something. just want to see for curiousity. and that's if i get the guts.  i've done 135 in the car, but 119 on the bike is pretty nerve wracking. so, not sure how much more i'll do before backing off the throttle.

as far as bottom end, i'm going to try an avoid it as much as i can. lighter flywheel, lighter cam gears, quicker throttle cam, DP ECU + eventually port and polish and PC V and exhaust mods. goal is to get above the lull quickly and stay there but all of it should give more torque across the range maybe flattening out some of the issues.

BUT we are getting WAY off topic. or at least i am.
I'm going 15t for now. if it doesnt work. chain wear or not, i'm going back to 14t

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J5
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« Reply #21 on: August 01, 2010, 12:03:42 AM »



BUT we are getting WAY off topic. or at least i am.
I'm going 15t for now. if it doesnt work. chain wear or not, i'm going back to 14t



ah but you missed the real point

when you come time to change chain and sprockets go +3 on the rear and a 15 on the front , same result as a 14 front

you can always go to a 16F if you desire for say long distance rides ,  as front is quick and easy to change
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i dont care if you have been a mechanic for 10 years doing something for a long time does not make you good at it, take my gf for an example shes been walking for 28 years and still manages to fall over all the time.
Raux
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« Reply #22 on: August 01, 2010, 12:11:10 AM »

yeah i got that. is there room for a 16t sprocket? i know with the case savers the 15 tooth is a tight fit. just seems it might be too tight in there.

taking a look at http://www.gearingcommander.com/

the 14t gives a 7% theoretical reduction in life.

the 15t is a top end of 128 at 9000rpm. the DP ECU will give another 500rpm or more. (people are saying it varies according to gear)

16t gives a theoretical top speed of 137 at 9000rpm. and should increase chain life by 6%.

but that's all theory.
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kopfjäger
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« Reply #23 on: August 01, 2010, 12:14:04 AM »

16t gives a theoretical top speed of 137 at 9000rpm. and should increase chain life by 6%.

How often will you go 137?
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Raux
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« Reply #24 on: August 01, 2010, 12:23:09 AM »

in Europe...  Grin   Evil
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kopfjäger
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« Reply #25 on: August 01, 2010, 12:25:53 AM »

in Europe...  Grin   Evil

You gotta come back to the states, sooner or later.  Wink
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Raux
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« Reply #26 on: August 01, 2010, 12:29:28 AM »

You gotta come back to the states, sooner or later.  Wink

shuss you...
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Billyzoom
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« Reply #27 on: August 03, 2010, 05:47:33 PM »

Not sure if this is decided for you already, but on my S4rs I went with a 14t front soon after buying it, just based on what I read here.  I had noticed previously that it took some good revs to launch at a stop, but it wasn't horrible. 

The 14t gave a great improvement in casual launches and better roll-on power, but on the down side cruising revs went up about 400 rpm, and mileage dropped about 7-8%.  Neither of those was a deal breaker, but I also noticed that I sometimes found myself trying to shift into seventh, and the bike felt just a tad buzzier.  Didn't care for that.  Also, and I guess this is a problem I'm fortunate to have, my bike accelerates through the gears so quickly that it's just magnified with this gearing change.  For some that is ideal, but not really for me. 

Since I don't do a lot of commuting I'm going to go back to 15 on the front.  When the chain wears out I'll split the difference with a tooth or two larger in the back.  If I commuted much or hit much stop and go traffic, though, I'd stick with the 14t.

Joel
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arai_speed
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« Reply #28 on: August 04, 2010, 08:01:52 AM »

I've been running a 14T for about 6K miles now and I would never go back to.  I love the quicker acceleration and being higher in the power band (the sweet spot as I call it).

I do 98% canyon riding and don't see any negatives with this mod.  I had the same mod on my old R1 and I ran that to about 17K miles on the stock chain w/no issues on wear.   coffee
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M1100
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« Reply #29 on: August 04, 2010, 08:59:24 AM »

seems like lots of opinions.. I am on the fence about this still.  My bikes isn't broken in yet, though. 
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