BellissiMoto rearsets added

Started by GoTeamV, February 15, 2011, 06:57:28 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

desmoworks

Quote from: calscrazy on April 02, 2011, 02:41:08 PM
thank j!

i have a 07 695 and cant figure out what to do with the damn stoplight switch. on the factory rearsets it screws into a hole then the bolt presses against it turning it off and when not pressed against it it comes on.

You'll need to run a banjo pressure switch unless you devise your own mounting method for the OEM switch assembly. For $20 though the banjo pressure switch might be less hassle. The mechanical switch works better than the pressure switch, but it is a rear brake light trigger so it probably doesn't matter much as you should have the front brake on during braking so the tail light wold be on anyhow.
Anthony Creek
Pro Italia Online || mota-lab

671M900

Quote from: desmoworks on April 06, 2011, 09:19:18 PM
You'll need to run a banjo pressure switch unless you devise your own mounting method for the OEM switch assembly. For $20 though the banjo pressure switch might be less hassle. The mechanical switch works better than the pressure switch, but it is a rear brake light trigger so it probably doesn't matter much as you should have the front brake on during braking so the tail light wold be on anyhow.

The pressure switch that I have works perfectly (K&L), but I'm sure it necessitates a well bled system. Take the opportunity to change and bleed the system, and then instal some speedbleeders.
671ducati.wordpress.com Record of Progress!

desmoworks

Quote from: 671M900 on April 06, 2011, 10:12:16 PM
The pressure switch that I have works perfectly (K&L), but I'm sure it necessitates a well bled system. Take the opportunity to change and bleed the system, and then instal some speedbleeders.

I've used K&L, Spiegler, etc... they all work and activate the light, but we tested it back to back with a microswitch and the pressure switch activated the light much later. Slightly dragging the rear wouldn't turn the light on, you'd have to be stepping on the pedal to trigger it. With the microswitch that isn't an issue as you can can adjust the contact point.

Also we've had customers that the pressure switches have failed on. Never an accident because of it, but not good when it is on the front master and you only use your front brake!
Anthony Creek
Pro Italia Online || mota-lab

calscrazy

Went with banjo bolt switch! Thanks for the help!

Prob now is the rear brake lever doesnt return. Bleed brakes at caliper and at master but neither fixed issue.
home will always be between the red and rio!!!
2007 m695 errr recently passed away

BellissiMoto

Quote from: calscrazy on April 10, 2011, 11:01:53 AM
Went with banjo bolt switch! Thanks for the help!

Prob now is the rear brake lever doesnt return. Bleed brakes at caliper and at master but neither fixed issue.

Isn't there a spring retained from the original rearsets that keeps pressure on the back of the lever from where the plunger goes into the master cylinder?

If not, you may wish to get one and see if that solves your problem.


Also, anyone who needs the banjo bolt pressure switches, can get them here - http://bellissimoto.com/Banjobolts.html

junior varsity

Quote from: BellissiMoto on April 13, 2011, 07:37:55 AM
Isn't there a spring retained from the original rearsets that keeps pressure on the back of the lever from where the plunger goes into the master cylinder?

If not, you may wish to get one and see if that solves your problem.


Also, anyone who needs the banjo bolt pressure switches, can get them here - http://bellissimoto.com/Banjobolts.html

Unlikely - the OEM rearset spring is round - goes around OEM rearset's lever pivot bolt and affixes to both the lever (on one end) and a notch in the backside of the rearset.

The Brembo plunger, however, does not attach to anything on the "piston" end. It can only "push" - it cannot pull the piston back - if the lever can move back up by hand and the rear brake is sticking - its unrelated to the plunger.   

I've seen where people have removed the lever return springs because it moves the plunger's end away from the piston, so the first motion when pushing on the rear brake pedal would be take up the 'slack' or deadspace - you'd have to move the pedal down until the plunger gets to the piston before any brake action could occur. It was wasted movement.

The counter-worry would be that without a return spring, the pedal will continue to push on the piston and apply the rear brake.   The real worry is not that the spring won't move it off the piston, but that the lever doesn't have enough upward free play to move upwards and get out of the way of the piston's additional retraction when the fluid gets hot and expands.

junior varsity

I've used the pressure switch on my front GP master for years, so I've certainly grown faith in those.