Front & Rear LEDs

[dgm]

I'm replacing both by front and rear indicators with LEDs and running into the lack of resistance issue.  I have 2 of these Radio Shack resistors, but wondering if anyone has pics of where/how you mounted and wired the resistors.  Especially with regard to heat they might generate.  http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062291

Also, if I don't mind the fast flashing, is there any harm being done to my elec system if I don't have the correct resistance for the indicators?

thanks!

[eyduc]

Those resistors are still too small even if you wired them parallel (5 ohms).  I think it needs to be 3 ohms or less.  Than the power rating is too small (20 watts parallel).  14 volts and 3 ohms makes 65 watts steady state or 33 watts at 50% duty cycle.  You'll need about 4 of those stacked or just buy the load resistors made for it.  There are recent posts on this subject.

I left them off.  The flash rate is ok for me and should not do any damage. 

[battlecry]

I only used 2 at the rear, provided enough load for the built in flasher circuitry to work properly.  I zip tied them to the frame near the handles out back.  It hides them from view and I hope the frame metal works as a heat sink.

[dgm]

Agreed,  I don't have the calculations to say why it works, but one of these on each side in the rear makes all the difference.  The Flash rate seems to be exactly what the way it was.  it's exactly the same as on my harley (w/out LEDs).  I ended up just zip-tying them high on the inside of the comp works lic plate bracket.  Figured they'll get plenty of airflow there and the metal lic plate bracket might help dissipate some heat as well.  For about a dollar each from radio shack, I can't complain.  so far anyway. 

[eyduc]

Wow, I'm surprised they work!   I thought that the load had to be equal to the bulbs resistance.  10 ohms is a little higher than bulbs.   But I think the limit for the flash to work is higher than I thought.   The formula for power is volts squared divided by resistance or (V^2)/R.  For 14 volts and 10 ohms, power is about 20 watts.  But if it flashes at 50% (half on, half off), it will dissipate 10 watts which is the power rating of those resisters.   Hopefully the flash duty cycle is less than 50% or they will not last long.  But then for the money, they're cheap enough to replace.   Good job on finding this cheap mod!

[Hank025]

I looked at the radio shack resistors, and they didnt have anything bigger than 20 watts

Did you do anything to weather-proof the resistors? HeatShrink?

[Smitty]

Digikey can help you on resistors. 
http://www.digikey.com/

[drew23]

i'm geting a bike up an running and installed front led signals , and integ.turnsignal/brake motodynamic taillight - they seem to work fine ,,, the bike's parked ,,, still have a way to go ,,,, but whats with the "resistor " part i keep readin about ? function , need , ect.,,, 

[dgm]

I looked at the radio shack resistors, and they didnt have anything bigger than 20 watts

Did you do anything to weather-proof the resistors? HeatShrink?

Nope...I didn't do anything to weather-proof.  We'll see how they hold up.  These are the ones I used:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062291

[xplodee]

I JUST finished an led turn signal (front/rear) install. The fronts are oberons from Motowheels and the rear is an integrated taillight from eBay. With just the taillight installed I didn't need any resistors. Once I added the fronts I did. Based on research on the board, I picked up a pair of 10ohm, 10watt power resistors, encased in ceramic from radioshack. These work PERFECTLY.

I made two custom harnesses to adapt the left and right sides.  the harnesses consisted of the OEM connector (from the turn signal), resistor, and two bullet connectors to connect to the turn signal. I did a full weather resistant install with lots of very high quality glue-type heat shrink, soldered joints, etc. I will take some pictures tomorrow. It is not an easy task to install this correctly on the X96/1100's but once done it's worth it. There was a tiny amount of room to tuck the new harness into and you can't see it once installed.

[dgm]

Cool, I'm looking forward to those pics. 

[xplodee]

Here's a pic showing the harness installed within my headlight bucket space. I used PEEK sheathing to cover the power resistor and prevent it from coming in contact with any plastic parts. 16 gauge wire throughout aside from the 28 ultra small, ultra crappy wiring that came with the Oberon signal. Be careful wiring the signal to ensure that you can actually remove it from the headlight bucket should you ever want to. If you just solder everything together then you won't be able to ever remove the nut that holds the signal on.



Honestly, if you want a harness I wouldn't mind making a couple extras. I can snap a pic of the harness outside of the headlight at that time. As is I don't really feel like removing the whole headlight again to get a photo of it.

[Chris in SCruz]

Completely unrelated - That is painful to see the PA inspection sticker stuck straight to your forks.  Is that the only way to go about it?
I'm still trying to get some manner of sticker residue off my Guzzi's forks from a PO.   
When my wife had to stick a school parking permit on her bike, we cut a beercan open, clamped it inside-out to the shock reservoir & stuck the sticker to that. To the casual observer, it just looks like a couple randomly placed hose clamps hanging out on the ends of an aluminum tube...with an ugly sticker in the middle.

Granted, you'd need a snazzy gold beer can in your case, but you get the idea.

[xplodee]

Pretty sure the state mandates that the sticker be on the fork.