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Author Topic: M1100 Project Bike  (Read 139786 times)
DucatiTorrey
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« Reply #150 on: April 02, 2011, 07:56:58 PM »

i love this thread, he's shutting everyone else the hell up, end all be all.

thank you sir. all or nothing, making me and my basically stock 696 feel real good!
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arrick
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« Reply #151 on: April 02, 2011, 11:11:29 PM »

Please tell me you're either going with Darmah skins or something awesomely unique akin to everything else.... man I want my Termi's to look like that!

I’m planning to paint the skins myself with a Darmah inspired scheme. Catch is that I have never painted with anything other than rattle cans. Should be interesting...
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ungeheuer
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« Reply #152 on: April 03, 2011, 03:28:43 AM »

Got the Termis riveted back together and added a gold Termi decal for good measure.

applause Black ceramic end caps and gold Termi decal look fabulous!  applause 

But then I would say that....
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=28586.msg708169#msg708169
.... Wink

I only did the end caps, so I'm looking forward to seeing how the whole exhaust looks in black  popcorn.

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Ducati 1100S Monster Ducati 1260ST Multistrada + Moto Guzzi Griso 1200SE


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DucatiTorrey
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« Reply #153 on: April 03, 2011, 06:13:52 AM »

i think Ung has some competition!  Evil
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ungeheuer
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« Reply #154 on: April 03, 2011, 06:40:26 AM »

i think Ung has some competition!  Evil
Mate its no contest, I'm totally outclassed in this superbly unbridled spendathon waytogo.

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Ducati 1100S Monster Ducati 1260ST Multistrada + Moto Guzzi Griso 1200SE


Previously: Ducati1200SMultistradaDucatiMonster696DucatiSD900MotoMorini31/2
DucatiTorrey
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« Reply #155 on: April 03, 2011, 08:15:46 AM »

Mate its no contest, I'm totally outclassed in this superbly unbridled spendathon waytogo.


ha ha ha ha! take him to the track, maybe regain something?
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junior varsity
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« Reply #156 on: April 03, 2011, 01:03:21 PM »

The 1100 and 696 are NOT height adjustable.  The closest manner of changing ride height is to machine a new clevis (or try to add a spacer, which I am looking into -- just have to hang the subframe off the ceiling first, or get a motor stand, so that I can see how much room there is to add.  1/8" or so more in the back would be great).

The 696 has a different attachment bracket than the 1100, this provides the height difference, and is the cheapest way to raise the rear on the 696.  If you have an 1100 already, it's at the max ride height (unless you crank up preload, but that's just silly to do for ride height, as it will kill quality, and proper suspension setup).

They use the direct shock, rather than linkage

ah, i have forgotten this.   i stand corrected, but there are other solutions still.


On the non-progressive models or whatever you call the direct-shock-action, you'd have to use a shock with adjustable ride height for such changes.  Penske and Ohlins can manufacture shocks like this, and I'm sure other suspension manufacturers can as well.   I know Ohlins is willing to do both one-offs and 'regular customs' (such as a specially made shorter shock, with specific valving and spring, to lower the 696, since even a DP Low Seat doesn't bring it down all that much).  And every Penske is a 'one-off' - they are all built to order, not preassembled - so it could be done there as well.   That'd be part of my course-of-investigation in how to get-it-done.

Part two of investigating this for me would be to review history: the Supersports were also direct-action, and people tracked the hell out of these things. I'm sure somebody at some point came up with a solution since a change in ride height makes significant changes to how the bike will steer by changing both the wheel base, the position of the rider, the weight bias, and the angle of the forks.
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Raux
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« Reply #157 on: April 03, 2011, 01:15:31 PM »

the 696 is pretty low stock when it comes to ground and peg clearance
better to lower the 696 with seat changes or custom seat work

the 696 with 1100 shock mount is great IMO
the 1100 must be at a good height too, but going more???

I think you would be at the limit of the chain angle unless you changed sprockets for larger ones to avoid the chain eating the top of the swingarm. This is one reason I went back to the 15t instead of 14 t in the front.. i know not much, but still enough for me to worry.

if you are just trying to adjust geometry, lower the front of the 1100 would do the same as raising the rear
for actual seat height.. go with the DP Comfort or a custom seat to add some mm's

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junior varsity
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« Reply #158 on: April 03, 2011, 01:18:42 PM »

lowering the front does not change the wheel base as much from my experience.  i'm sure its different depending on how ride-height is adjusted, but that's been my tape-measure findings.
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arrick
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« Reply #159 on: April 03, 2011, 05:07:30 PM »

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hihhs
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« Reply #160 on: April 03, 2011, 05:55:06 PM »

^^^^ that is just awesome drool
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Monster 1100
DucatiTorrey
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« Reply #161 on: April 03, 2011, 07:15:05 PM »

integrated tail light?
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thought
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« Reply #162 on: April 03, 2011, 08:02:51 PM »

it's awesome watching this bike come together...
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« Reply #163 on: April 03, 2011, 08:46:55 PM »

Are we sticking with the black and gold theme?

You've got a neat lookin' workshop  bacon
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junior varsity
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« Reply #164 on: April 04, 2011, 07:49:10 AM »

That does look really bad ass.

If the bottom rearset bolts that go into the sump are the same as the ones from the older generation Monsters - heavy zinc-steel shouldered M10 bolts, quickly navigate to Pro-Bolt USA and go to Titanium-->Motorcycle Special Parts --> Ducati Clearance and grab up some shouldered titanium bolts to save big weight.

The alternative is, in the event the correct sizes are not there, or not in the color you are looking for (since they do anodize their titanium, but if its ano'd purple or blue or gold and you just want clear and its already sold out) another great alternative is to contact TPO Parts for the M10-sized Shoulder Bolt aluminum "sleeves" - you use the sleeve insert made from aluminum with a normal steel or titanium socket head bolt, rather than a bigger, heavier shouldered steel bolt to accomplish the same task.   Big weight savings if you do the Ti bolts with Aluminum Sleeves for those M10 bolts. And the M10 bolts are threaded M10x1.5 - not M10x1.25 (that was the engine bolt threading - at least it was for the engine bolts back in the day that threaded into the RH side of the frame...) - you don't want to end up with the wrong thread pitch bolts, and waiting longer on the right ones to arrive.


If those lower rearset mount bolts are actually quite different, than you can ignore what I have just blabbered on and on about, but if you did look into an alternative, a pretty big weight savings could be had. Certainly more than replacing the mudguard bolts with ti or alu (since they are so small to begin with).
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