Brake Rotors Need Help picking new ones...

[He Man]

I am only a few months away from having no choice but to replace my rotors (they are well past spec).

What are some good looking long lasting street rotors?

Beringer has these SWEET looking stainless steel rotors. 1 pair for $549.99
http://www.bellissimoto.com/BeringerRotorsandKits.html

How long do these last? Is it a better street material than stock?


Alternatively, I can pick up those ebay rotors for $250 bucks....
http://cgi.ebay.com/Front-Brake-Disc-Rotor-Ducati-S2R-S2-S4R-Monster-S4-R-/190518647516?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c5bcbdadc

My MAIN concern is longevity and cost. If I can snag used rotors that still have life in them at a good price i will.... but $100 is the most ill pay for used rotors because those eBay ones seem like a deal since i havent heard much of anything bad about them.

[Roaduser]

i dont think you can beat these for looks/cost ratio. black like carbon looks yet iron practicality and at rrp 350ea i think they are good value.

http://www.braketech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49&Itemid=96

[He Man]

those are along the same price as beringer for cast iron.

Ive read cast iron is not as good as Stainless for street. ( i ride in the rain a lot and my rotors get rusty often). and average life expectancy? WHats that suppose to translate to? I am pretty heavy on my rotors. They were past due at 18k.

[mattc7]

those are along the same price as beringer for cast iron.

Ive read cast iron is not as good as Stainless for street. ( i ride in the rain a lot and my rotors get rusty often). and average life expectancy? WHats that suppose to translate to? I am pretty heavy on my rotors. They were past due at 18k.

It's not necessarily cast Iron, it's a ductile iron, slightly different, machined from iron bar, not melted into casts.  No air pockets. Cry-Heat treated. Tensile strength is far superior to stainless. They wear slower too. They do require some different brake pads though.  They are definitely street-able, but iron doesn't like a ton of moisture (they perform flawlessly wet, but some rust can form (which will wipe off the second you tap the brakes while moving).  The iron is anodized for protection and strength.

If you're going to be rain/salted roads riding, stay stainless.  Otherwise Iron is a much better brake material as it dissipates heat better, and leads to less brake fade.  Braketech is one of my favorites in that price range, never been a huge beringer fan.  Braketech makes a stainless version. Their floater system is unique, in that the floaters are non-load-bearing so they float smoother, and transfer energy from the rotor to the wheel more effectively.

GP riders use Iron in the rain.

[ducatiz]

These are the ones I got:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310261763134

But look he's got new styles too:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310242642843
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270624197297

I would pick them up again in a heartbeat!  For SS rotors, they have functioned very well.  I have put about 800 miles on them on my S2R and zero issues.  I might pick up the other style for the SS for when I need them.  The yuan is about to be revalued and I cannot see them staying so cheap.

[Howie]

All stainless rotors should last around as long, at least blade wise.  Plus you can use sintered pads that are more resistant to wear.  Iron and ductile iron offer a better coefficient of friction and better heat transfer at the cost of wear and rust.  The rust is more an annoyance than a problem.  Sintered pads will eat iron rotors quickly.

These are the ones I got:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310261763134

But look he's got new styles too:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310242642843
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270624197297

I would pick them up again in a heartbeat!  For SS rotors, they have functioned very well.  I have put about 800 miles on them on my S2R and zero issues.  I might pick up the other style for the SS for when I need them.  The yuan is about to be revalued and I cannot see them staying so cheap.

If these make ducatiz happy they should do the same for you.  Replace the pads too, it will take a long time, maybe never for your old ones to bed.  

[ducatiz]

If these make ducatiz happy they should do the same for you.  Replace the pads too, it will take a long time, maybe never for your old ones to bed.  

Howie, I use an orbital sander on pads to get them to rebed easily.  Takes about 20-30 seconds max using 400 grit emery paper.  A hand orbital sander will cost you under $30 and you can find them as low as $15.  For old pads, they are great.

But I can't crow enough about those rotors I got.  It really makes me go "huh" every time I look at the Braketechs I have on the 900SS.  "Why did I spend that much money?"

[atomic410]

I have a beringer set up on my supermoto race bike.  pretty sweet setup.  if you are looking for a rear rotor I have an almost new abm and a galfer and I'd sell either.

[Howie]

Howie, I use an orbital sander on pads to get them to rebed easily.  Takes about 20-30 seconds max using 400 grit emery paper.  A hand orbital sander will cost you under $30 and you can find them as low as $15.  For old pads, they are great.

But I can't crow enough about those rotors I got.  It really makes me go "huh" every time I look at the Braketechs I have on the 900SS.  "Why did I spend that much money?"

That will work.

[ducatiz]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270734537856

[cokey]

Why are mc rotors so much?

[ducatiz]

Why are mc rotors so much?

because they can.

same reason you'll pay 30-50 to get a mc tire changed and balanced but only 12-20 for a car tire.

[Speeddog]

because they can.

same reason you'll pay 30-50 to get a mc tire changed and balanced but only 12-20 for a car tire.

Let's just totally ignore production volume/economy of scale in manufacturing. 

And time yourself on an R&R of front and rear wheels on a moto versus R&R of two wheels on a car. 

[ducatiz]

Don't get saucy with me, Bernaise.

I don't buy it given almost every bike made uses either a 300 or 310mm disk.  The difference is the carrier.  On cars the rotor is one piece.  Bikes have the additional cost of the carrier but the rotor surface is cheaply sourced.  Exceptions for the iron types or carbon.

cost to r&r wheels in car vs bike is offset by the cost/sq ft per vehicle needed in a shop.  I can have a 2 -3 bike shop in the same area as one medium sized car bay.

ducpond's entire shop is about the size of 1 car bays at a repair shop and they've got either 3 or 4 bike stands going.

not to mention profit from storage.  in the same space you can put 5-6 bikes, you can only put one car.  Coleman's at Falls Church has a 2 story storage facility for bikes.  probably get 35-40 cars there max, they have over 200 bikes stored.

[Syscrush]

Ive read cast iron is not as good as Stainless for street. ( i ride in the rain a lot and my rotors get rusty often).

Then definitely stick with stainless.  If you need more braking power than you get with stainless on the street, then you need to learn how to take it easy and/or get your fix at the track.

I had a set of iron EBC rotors on my old Suzuki and they were nothing but heartache.