696 clutch toast?

[asherrick]

I was on my way to the dealer yesterday and the clutch started slipping like crazy! Even under very mild throttle. I thought maybe the excessive heat (98+ degrees) might have something to do with it. I have had the bike slip a few times in the past, but those were isolated instances. Yesterday it was happening constantly.

Since I was taking the bike to the dealer anyway, I had them check it out. Turns out part of the problem was that I had my ASV clutch levers adjusted in too far, so the clutch wasn't fully disengaged. I thought this may have been an issue but when I tested it (since you can push the ASV levers forward while you ride) I didn't notice any difference. They said that after adjusting the lever it slips a lot less, but it still does happen. I think yesterday's ride may have done the real damage. Anyway, they're recommending trying to scuff the clutch plate before resorting to a replacement.

In the event that I need a new clutch, any recommendations on an after market part vs OEM? I saw these two on eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DUCATI-M620-695-696-796-S2R800-WET-CLUTCH-PLATES-PADS-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27b837df38QQitemZ170594393912QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2420wt_939

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BARNETT-PERFORMANCE-CLUTCH-KIT-DUCATI-M620-695-696-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3effab87c6QQitemZ270577403846QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1425wt_939

[booger]

If you're going with a new clutch plate pack, your best bet is good old OEM. The Barnett packs aren't as good.

Lose the ASV levers while you're at it, they slip the clutch due to their poor design and are probably the reason your clutch is burned out.

[He Man]

Ive never used barnett wets, but their drys are absolutely horrible. I use OEM for dry clutch.

As far as scrubbing the plates? no point, if you are in there, you might as well replace em if you can get a cheap alternative. Reason being, you have to pay for more work to be done over a temporary fix. it is cheaper on the long run.

Mind you, you really need to take a look at them to guage anything. If they are saveable, go for it, if not, dont bother trying to get teh few extra miles out of em. have the replacements on hand so you can decide.

[Veloce-Fino]

I had exact same problems with the same levers. You probably DO NOT need a new clutch.

See here:
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=47316.0

You need to modify the levers so that the plunger/rod thing that goes into the reservoir can seat deeper into the lever and fully disengage when not pulled.

On Another note:

Removed the clutch lever and installed the stock.

I measured the distance that the stock lever was depressing the plunger rod when in a neutral position. Then I reinstalled the ASV and measured the distance. The ASV lever was depressing the plunger rod over twice as much as the stockers.

Conclusion: ASV clutch lever was absolutely riding the clutch and preventing full engagement of the clutch when in gear.

Solution: the "cup" where the plunger rod inserts on the lever is not adjustable on the ASV, it is cnc'ed into the lever. I used a tapered drill bit to both widen and deepen the cup where the plunger rod inserts. Nearly 1/4 inch was added to the depth!!

After doing this the plunger rod was depressed almost exactly the same as the stock lever. I threw some lithium grease on the plunger rod and the lever mounting pin and reinstalled everything.

Rode bike and no more slipping.

This is the weird part.... If the ASV lever was constantly riding the clutch over the last ~2k miles why did the slipping only become an issue yesterday? And why did it stop when I fixed the issue? Shouldn't the issue have been intermittent until the point of failure and then constant after?

I feel like I just put a band-aid on the problem and my clutch is still on it's way out as a result of 2000+ miles of unknowingly riding the clutch.

*still changing the oil next weekend also.

This is the solution. ^

[Veloce-Fino]

Also:

When you push the ASV lever forward while riding only the lever itself moves, not the actuating arm that depresses the rod in the reservoir. So that would have zero effect on the slippage.

See above post for the solution, unless your clutch is totally fried, which I doubt. I had slippage for 6 months and corrected it by altering the levers and have never had an issue since.

[danaid]

  Good to know!     I was going to order asv levers, didn't because they were back ordered. Wonder if pazzio or crg have the same issue?

[Veloce-Fino]

  Good to know!     I was going to order asv levers, didn't because they were back ordered. Wonder if pazzio or crg have the same issue?

I believe Pazzo and CRG have a screw that can be used to adjust the depth that the plunger/rod sits into the lever. Giving you the ability to fine-tune the engagement point. ASV does not have this so the only option is to drill out the area where plunger/rid sits in order to adjust it.

It's a shame. The ASV are extremely high quality pieces and I absolutely love them, but for some stupid make the beast with two backsing reason the designer did not factor in clutch engagement adjustment.

[Roy]

Does this issue apply to the asv adjustable levers or just the non-adjustable ones?

[He Man]

try FP racing levers, they are my personal fav.

[Veloce-Fino]

Does this issue apply to the asv adjustable levers or just the non-adjustable ones?

I have the adjustable levers, it applies to those for sure. Not sure about the non-adjustable.

The adjustability refers to the lever distance from the bar, not the engagement of the clutch. That is actually adjustable on the stock levers and nearly all aftermarket (not on ASV though)

[Howie]

As a DIY project scuffing and reusing the plates is worth a try, at dealership labor rates I would go for new plates.

[asherrick]

I had exact same problems with the same levers. You probably DO NOT need a new clutch.

See here:
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=47316.0

You need to modify the levers so that the plunger/rod thing that goes into the reservoir can seat deeper into the lever and fully disengage when not pulled.

This is the solution. ^

Awesome! Thanks, man. I'll relay to the shop before they go nuts. Have you had any further problems with your clutch after doing this? I'm wonder if the increase ambient temperature (98+ degrees) somehow caused the lever to push against the plunger harder than normal. That could explain why I never really had an issue.

[Veloce-Fino]

Awesome! Thanks, man. I'll relay to the shop before they go nuts. Have you had any further problems with your clutch after doing this? I'm wonder if the increase ambient temperature (98+ degrees) somehow caused the lever to push against the plunger harder than normal. That could explain why I never really had an issue.

Nope, no further problems. It was 90+F here yesterday with 75% humidity and I flogged the bike for a good 2 hours with no issues. Its been about 1,000 miles since I altered the levers and have never had a clutch slip issue since.

When I had the issue at first it was very intermittent. Sometimes only at startup, the just the first few shifts, then longer into the ride. The weird thing was, there would be a month between these occurrences so I never thought anything of it. Then it started to get a lot more frequent, which is when I drilled the levers out.

Hopefully the shop uses a bench vice and wraps the lever in a towel or uses rubber faces. The levers are soft aluminum and you need to make sure the bit does not bind. If it does you're going to need a new lever. I carefully drilled 1/16" at a time until the plunger/rod when not actuated sat at the same distance into the reservoir as the stock lever. Took all of 20 minutes.  

[asherrick]

Now I wait...unfortunately my SBK is torn apart at the moment while I install a bunch of mods, so I can't even ride that in the mean time.