M696 Oil Change & Chain Adjustment

[Kev M]

Forgive this question but I've:

* Searched the Forum
* Looked at the Factory Service Manual
* Looked at the Factory Parts Manual

and none of those sources answered this seemingly VERY VERY VERY SIMPLE QUESTION


WHICH PLUG ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE CRANKCASE IS THE OIL DRAIN PLUG ON A 2011 M696?

I ask because I've identified the 14mm hex bit plug for the Oil Screen on the lower side of the crankcase.

and right below that is a small hex bit plug which I don't believe is it (I believe that is labelled as a "cap" in the parts manual).

Then at the CENTER of the underside - right by what looks like the crankcase split line and facing straight downward is a small hex bit plug with a copper/brass crushwasher that I SUSPECT is it.

However, it's a lot smaller than the parts book or the photo in the service manual would lead me to believe it should be. And when I bought the filter they put a crush washer in the box which does NOT meet the size of ANY of the plugs I see?

Also, to add to my dilemma, almost all the way to the other side (left side) of the underside of the crankcsase is yet another small hex bit plug with an aluminum crush washer which is threaded to an ANGLED BOSS (not straight up-down, but titled). I DON'T think that is it but I'm not sure.

This image from the factory manual makes it look like it is threaded straight into a boss on the underside of the crankcase, but NEAR AN EDGE?

Did they take the photo in the factory manual with the crankcase split? Otherwise there's no plug that looks it on this model?

UPDATE - ANSWER BELOW

[Kev M]

I'll add that the hex bit plug that I describe in my first post of this thread APPEARS to be in about the same relative position as the drain plug in this video, but it does look to be smaller (I wonder if the just changed the bore and plug size and that is what is throwing me off).

Ducatitech.com "HowTo" Ducati Oil Change

[thought]

this guy shows the location and process pretty definitively:

[Kev M]

GREAT VIDEO reference, HOWEVER

Our 2011 M696 is different.

Not very, but the drain plug (seems to be in a SLIGHTLY different location) and is DEFINITELY smaller.

I'll take a pic and some measurements and report back.

[Kev M]

I can see differences in the engine cases.

For instance my oil filter is fully exposed, I.e. it's not in a bore like the one in the video.

What I believe is the drain plug needs a 5mm hex bit, not a 10mm bit.

There is nothing under there that a 10mm bit would fit.

[mi_scusi]

Kev,

I ran into the same issue when doing my oil change. My bike did not match up to the video 100% either as it is a 2010 696. The drain plug is the center one with the copper/brass washer. There should be a magnet on the end as well. Did you get your filter at FBF? They gave me a larger crush washer with the filter that seems to fit nothing.  Let me know how you make out.

-Dan

[Howie]

Kev,

I ran into the same issue when doing my oil change. My bike did not match up to the video 100% either as it is a 2010 696. The drain plug is the center one with the copper/brass washer. There should be a magnet on the end as well. Did you get your filter at FBF? They gave me a larger crush washer with the filter that seems to fit nothing.  Let me know how you make out.

-Dan

The large crush washer fits the plug for the screen unless they changed that too.

[wannabfast]

yea the first time on my m796 the crush washer they gave me, was too small

and its the center plug, the newer desmodue motors use a smaller drain plug

if you are going to a ducati dealership, the tech's can match something up, i keep an old washer around just because its easier to bring something in to match up

[Kev M]

Dan - YUP - FBF - I'll let them know later this week that they're making ASSumptions that some of the newer models are the same as the older ones.

So here's my report and tips for the next guy (I'll post pics in a minute):

Turns out they changed the motor cases in 2010 or 2011 on these models. The drain plug is still in the underside center of the motor, but it's a 5mm now and not a 10mm. There are also a number of other plugs under there too to add to the confusion.

The crush washer FBF gave me is therefore the wrong size (it's for the old 10mm bit plug), and they DIDN'T think to sell me one for the filter screen as that one is larger (and I didn't know it existed the day we bought the bike). I'm glad I pulled the screen as there were some bits of paint/plastic on it as well as a few chunks of metal.

Now WHAT THE @$%@$^^* IS UP WITH THE GAWD-DAMNED CHAIN ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE?

Here's what the factory manual says:

Adjusting the chain tension
Tensioning the drive chain.

Turn the rear wheel slowly to find the position at which the chain is at its most taut.

With the motorcycle on its sidestand, press with a finger in the centre of the bottom run of the chain and measure the distance between the centres of chain link pins and the aluminium swingarm. The distance should be within 46 to 48 mm.

To adjust the tension, proceed as follows.

Loosen the axle nuts (1).

Turn the chain tension adjuster screws (2) on both sides of the swingarm clockwise by the same number of turns to increase tension or counterclockwise to decrease it. In the latter case, you will need to push the wheel forward.

UNLESS I'm bat-sh@$t crazy this is EXACTLY WRONG - i.e. completely opposite.

The distance between the sprockets is 24" - if I press upward on the bottom run at the centerpoint the chain was so loose it would TOUCH the swingarm - and right away I had some doubt about the 46-48mm spec.

But we continued - I loosend the axle nuts (30mm by the way) and turned the adjsuters (8mm btw) CLOCKWISE a full turn - only to find that LOOSENED the chain, NOT tightened it.

(btw, put a mark on the adjusters that you can see when the socket is on them and it's easy to make sure you move both the exact same amount).

So I went back to my starting position and turned it COUNTERCLOCKWISE - lo-and-behold it actually tightened the chain.

I got it tight enough that I thought it was approachin too tight, and pressed upward on the bottom rung and measured - the gap was now 40mm and tightening it further was not going to give me a larger gap.

That's when it hit me, that if the manual was completely ass-backwards on adjusting distance, why couldn't it also be so about how you press on the damn chain.

So I instead pressed DOWNWARD on the bottom run of the chain (away from the swingarm) and set the tension so THAT produced a 46-48mm gap (I went with 48 to be sure because it still seemed a bit tight).

At this setting I found that IF I pushed the chain upward it would no longer hit the plastic swingarm protector - as a matter of fact it JUST missed it with small enough a gap that I suspect that is on purpose and I BET a valid "quick-check" of the chain is to push it up and make sure it doesn't contact that plastic piece.

Anyway I'm bringing it to FBF next week to reset the service light, and to return the wrong crush washer and get the right ones and I guess while I'm there I'll ask the tech about my chain adjustment procedure.

But seriously WTF - I've been working in the tech manual industry for decades and I've seen a LOT of stupid mistakes (especially from translations) but this one was up there with the best.

[Kev M]

A couple of shots.

This first one shows the differences in the engine cases - how the oil filter is fully exposed. The nice part about that is you really don't need a cap wrench (though ironically I had the proper size one in my box anyway).



This next shot shows the relevant plugs. Note that not visible in this photo, but back a little behind the oil drain plug and pretty much all the way to the left side is that diagonally threaded plug I mentioned in the first post.




Hope this helps another Duc Newbie...

[mysticbluex3]

I like the recess oil filter of the older 696 better.  Having it sticking out is a bit of an eye sore.  The down side is that I'm dripping oil because I haven't gotten a filter wrench yet.

[Kev M]

I guess I'm weird that way - I like the mechanical nature of it sticking out - in the recess it's just harder to access. On my Guzzi Breva it's in a bore underneath the bike (like the oilhead BMWs) and I hate not being able to get my hands on it.

Oh, I haven't had a chain drive bike in the garage since the mid-90s.

Anyone mind giving me their thoughts on my chain adjustment procedure?

[Kev M]

One more bump to see if anyone has thoughts on the chain adjusment procedure.

[DoWorkSon]

One more bump to see if anyone has thoughts on the chain adjusment procedure.

It's in your manual...

The adjust the two bolts in rear to tighten/loosen chain to correct setting

[Kev M]

It's in your manual...

The adjust the two bolts in rear to tighten/loosen chain to correct setting

LOL, I appreciate the reply, but you didn't read the thread (probably cause it's too damn wordy).

Earlier in the thread I detailed how the information in the factory service manual APPEARS to be back-assward (direction you turn the adjusters and how your measure the ga) and I wanted someone to confirm or tell me how they measure chain play or the gap.

WOW -but while we're on the subject I just checked the owner's manual (silly me going to the service manual first) and though the owner's manual gives the same basic confusing procedure for gap, I just noticed it says 145 Nm for the rear axle nut (107 ft. lbs.) - WOAH, the service manual I have must be out of date, I think it said and I used something more like 80 Nm (60 ft. lbs.), guess I need to go out and retighten it. 

I also, didn't realize Ducati wants you to tighten the chain adjuster screws to hold the position after you tighten the axle nut - so I'll do that too...


Damn I'm such a Ducati Newbie