How to stop my S4 from leaking gas...

Started by Dustin1231, June 18, 2008, 10:05:25 AM

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Blackout

2003 Ducati Monster 1000
2005 Triumph Speed Triple 1050
2003 Honda CR250
2008 KTM 990 SuperDuke

Howie

Quote from: Blackout on July 05, 2008, 09:05:08 PM
eh? ???

Filters, pumps and low fuel senders don't like sealers.  Hopefully you didn't kill all three.

Pancake81

YUP... had a leaky S4 tank myself. Brazzed her up and she is good as new. $350 later  :P
About the same time you're dragging your knees through a series of tight left-right-handers on Sunday afternoon, some guy in white shoes is sweating a 3-foot putt. Go figure.

ducpainter

Quote from: Blackout on July 05, 2008, 09:05:08 PM
eh? ???
If you left the internals in there the pump screen is most certainly clogged.

I hope that's all.

The pump needs to come out.

Good luck with that.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



Zipper

So I brought my bike (2002 S4) to a reputable dealer in my area to have my base gasket replaced ($802, 5 hours labor a few bucks in parts.)  They did a great job and even cleaned up a few things on the bike.  I drove it home last night topped off the gas at the local station and put it in the garage. I went to go drive to work this am and instantly I could smell gasoline in the garage and sure enough there on the ground was a small spot where gas had leaked. I traced back the drips and it seems to be coming from behind the hinge.  (I have ALWAYS been careful to not lift the tank up too high based on this and other threads.)

I didn't have this problem BEFORE I brought it to have this work done, so I feel as though the mechanic is at least partially responsible(?)  In the last month I spent $250 on a custom map and another $800 on a rear base gasket replacement.  (ouch)  If you were in my shoes what would you ask from the dealer...  request a braze?  Thanks in advance.

ducpainter

Wouldn't hurt to ask.

If it gets brazed make sure you have them coat it.

Don't let them use Kreem.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



Monstermash

I've been wallowing in my own chaotic and insecure delusions.



"Though I disagree with everything you say, I will defend to the death your right to say it."

Magnus

Quote from: Monstermash on August 15, 2008, 07:36:42 AM

WTF does this mean?

i think it means that shakespeare had sex with his tank...
'02 MS4 Black Fog

xtophr

Quote from: ducpainter on July 25, 2008, 05:28:47 AM
Don't let them use Kreem.

I'm glad I saw this thread!  I have a complete Kreem kit that I bought on ebay ready to do my tank with.  I guess I'll look for the POR-15 Tank Sealer.  Anyone know how much it will take?  I saw it on the manufacturers site and see that it comes in different sized cans.

Anyhow, the reason I'm doing my tank is that there were these little puffy white growths on the inside of my tank several years ago that turned into rusty spots.  I removed the tank, stripped out all of the internals, and was just getting ready to Kreem it when I started looking around for advice.  The rust was pretty bad at the bottom near the fuel pump based on the amount of it that was on my arm as I fished around inside to remove the pump!  The filter screen on the pump was pretty rusty, too.

Will I need to plug the tubing ends inside the tank?  Should I tape the openings while I flow the sealer around on the inside?

Howie

Quote from: xtophr on March 08, 2009, 06:55:54 PM
I'm glad I saw this thread!  I have a complete Kreem kit that I bought on ebay ready to do my tank with.  I guess I'll look for the POR-15 Tank Sealer.  Anyone know how much it will take?  I saw it on the manufacturers site and see that it comes in different sized cans.

Anyhow, the reason I'm doing my tank is that there were these little puffy white growths on the inside of my tank several years ago that turned into rusty spots.  I removed the tank, stripped out all of the internals, and was just getting ready to Kreem it when I started looking around for advice.  The rust was pretty bad at the bottom near the fuel pump based on the amount of it that was on my arm as I fished around inside to remove the pump!  The filter screen on the pump was pretty rusty, too.

Will I need to plug the tubing ends inside the tank?  Should I tape the openings while I flow the sealer around on the inside?

This is probably what you want for a single job. 

http://www.por15.com/CYCLE-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/CTRK/

ducpainter

Quote from: xtophr on March 08, 2009, 06:55:54 PM
I'm glad I saw this thread!  I have a complete Kreem kit that I bought on ebay ready to do my tank with.  I guess I'll look for the POR-15 Tank Sealer.  Anyone know how much it will take?  I saw it on the manufacturers site and see that it comes in different sized cans.

Anyhow, the reason I'm doing my tank is that there were these little puffy white growths on the inside of my tank several years ago that turned into rusty spots.  I removed the tank, stripped out all of the internals, and was just getting ready to Kreem it when I started looking around for advice.  The rust was pretty bad at the bottom near the fuel pump based on the amount of it that was on my arm as I fished around inside to remove the pump!  The filter screen on the pump was pretty rusty, too.

Will I need to plug the tubing ends inside the tank?  Should I tape the openings while I flow the sealer around on the inside?
Plug the tubes on the outside.

You can use short lengths of vacuum tubing available at any auto parts store. You'll need some 5/16" and some 1/4". Remove them each time you rinse.

The fuel sender hole needs to be blocked off too as does the filler opening for both the wash and the etch.

Tape will not work well on the large openings.

You don't need to block off the filler opening for the sealing process if you're careful.

If you follow the directions exactly the POR kit works great.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



SaltLick

Quote from: ducpainter on March 08, 2009, 09:34:25 PM
Plug the tubes on the outside.

You can use short lengths of vacuum tubing available at any auto parts store. You'll need some 5/16" and some 1/4". Remove them each time you rinse.

The fuel sender hole needs to be blocked off too as does the filler opening for both the wash and the etch.

Tape will not work well on the large openings.

You don't need to block off the filler opening for the sealing process if you're careful.

If you follow the directions exactly the POR kit works great.

ducpainter i just got my tank back, its been welded and painted. They suggested i coat the inside.  heres my question:

A: There are two tubes inside the tank a longer and shorter one, do i need to block off the openings inside the tank (wont that coating go inside those tubes and clog them up?)

B: How important is it to keep all that stuff off a brand new paint job? Should i wait a few weeks before doing the POR 15, i think it was just clear coated a day or two ago.

ducpainter

Quote from: SaltLick on March 08, 2009, 10:00:12 PM
ducpainter i just got my tank back, its been welded and painted. They suggested i coat the inside.  heres my question:

A: There are two tubes inside the tank a longer and shorter one, do i need to block off the openings inside the tank (wont that coating go inside those tubes and clog them up?)

B: How important is it to keep all that stuff off a brand new paint job? Should i wait a few weeks before doing the POR 15, i think it was just clear coated a day or two ago.
The POR won't enter the tubes...but there are 4 in total on a FI tank.

You really really really should have done it before it was painted.

The soap, the acid, and the POR itself will mess up a fresh finish. It will take 60 days at 70 deg F to cure.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



ducpainter

Quote from: SaltLick on March 08, 2009, 10:30:07 PM
crapsticks....Oh well. Dammit, i know this is a ridiculous question but what are the chances that there is a leak? The welds werent by any seams, just at the top where the handlebars hit. Welded in about 4 places total. My dad said he pressure tested the tank after every weld he did. Thats how he found all the leaks in the first place. In the end he said it held the pressure in there. I am not sure how you pressure test a tank for leaks, how good of a trouble shooting tool that is i guess i should say.  Crappy thing is, here in oregon it wont get to 70 degrees on a daily basis until July. Then im suppore to wait 2 months after that? Man there would go the summer. Sigh...dammit.
What is your experience? Is there usually always a small leak after welding? Would i be insane to just skip the POR 15 part, or should i just fill it up ride it then during the summer once the pait is cured take everything out and coat it?
There isn't always a leak...but there will be rust that will develop and it won't take long.

You didn't braze the hinge while you were at it?   ???

If that's the case, that was a serious mistake.

I would say yes you'd be nuts to skip the POR.

If it does leak you'll ruin your new paint job...it's your choice.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



xtophr

Quote from: ducpainter on March 08, 2009, 10:35:34 PM
You didn't braze the hinge while you were at it?   ???

Where exactly should the hinge be brazed?  Mine wasn't yet a problem, but an ounce of prevention...

Thanks for all of the tips, guys.  So if I'm getting this right, plug the outside tubes and let the POR-15 do its stuff.  No POR will enter and plug the tubes because of the sealed outside ends?  Any suggestions as for what to use to plug the filler and sender holes?

I didn't realize that there was a 60 day wait for curing!  Good thing it's only March!