Billet pressure plate makes clutch slip. What am I missing?

[Staggerlee]

I picked up a used EVR plate last week and after I installed it, my clutch started slipping.  It hooks up just find around town and at lower speeds, but on the freeway, whacking the throttle sends it zinging.

Everything in the clutch is brand new; plates, basket, hub, springs & caps.  I took it all apart last night, scuffed up the plates and put it back together with the stock PP and everything's golden.

I measured the EVR plate against the stock and dimensionally, they're damn near identical.  There's a notch machined out of the outside perimeter which I assumed is the indexing mark and installed accordingly.  No joy.



The other odd thing is that when I took it back apart, after undoing the springs, the billet plate just pulled right off the throw out bearing; now the bearing can be pressed into the plate with no more pressure than what two opposable thumbs can generate.

Any idears?

[Chris@CycleCat]

Show us the other side. The bearing being loose is not the issue. Toss in another steel and see if that solves the problem.

[Twizted]

Try and see if the throwout bearing from your OEM clutch plate fits better. I know a few have had this trouble and rectified it by using the OEM  bearing.

[Staggerlee]

Show us the other side. The bearing being loose is not the issue. Toss in another steel and see if that solves the problem.

Here's the inboard side; looks pretty standard to me... 

So just another steel on the top of the stack, huh?  I'll give it a shot.

Thanks guys!

[avizpls]

There's a notch machined out of the outside perimeter which I assumed is the indexing mark and installed accordingly.  No joy.

A i got a plate from someone somewhere....and the index mark was wrong. It will only fall all the way into place in one position, so make sure youre on it.

[Staggerlee]

A i got a plate from someone somewhere....and the index mark was wrong. It will only fall all the way into place in one position, so make sure youre on it.

Now that's an interesting twist.  Will a misaligned pressure still allow the clutch hook up at lower RPMs?

[avizpls]

Possibly.

To check alignment, I say do this: take a few of the plates out (say 4) and then you can put the pressure plate all of the way onto the hub so that the teeth on the PP fully engage those of the hub. The 6 posts should be centered in the 6 holes. There are only then 6 ways to put it on AT ALL and only 1 will yield the pins properly centered in the holes of the PP.

[avizpls]

That too, good point

[Langanobob]

Here's the inboard side; looks pretty standard to me... 

So just another steel on the top of the stack, huh?  I'll give it a shot.

Thanks guys!

Very hard to tell from the computer screen but from the pattern on the plate it almost looks like the pressure plate isn't making full contact all the way around?  Any chance it's distorted?  Can you check it against a flat surface?

Not likely but I thought it might be worth mentioning.

[Staggerlee]

Well adding one of my old steels to the outside of the stack seems to have solved it.  I almost think that it actually "feels" better with the stock PP & normal stack height, or maybe I just have snakes in my head.

At any rate, it engages & disengages just fine and neutral isn't any harder to find than it was before; I guess I can consider this one solved.  I'm still at a loss as to why it won't work without the extra steel though.

Oh, a new OEM throw out bearing would still just slide on into the PP; I locked it in with some sleeve seal.

Again; I appreciate the help guys! 

[Speeddog]

I suspect that either the pressure plate was bottoming out on the hub, or the piston in the slave was bottomed out.

Upshot.... not all of the spring force was clamping the stack.