Modification Questions S2R

[Deebo]

Thanks for starting this thread. I have an 08 s2r1000 and I have a few mods, all done at the dealer.

QD ex-box, speedymoto framesliders, Rizoma barend mirrors, New grips (cant remember brand)

I really want a tail chop and to do my ecu and airbox

[xsephirot]

Thanks for starting this thread. I have an 08 s2r1000 and I have a few mods, all done at the dealer.

QD ex-box, speedymoto framesliders, Rizoma barend mirrors, New grips (cant remember brand)

I really want a tail chop and to do my ecu and airbox

I'm going to start doing a better job in getting this thread organized once parts start coming in once I have the bike properly winterized.

Not sure how to do the airbox yet but this is the cheapest ECU replacement I've found online so far: http://www.gothamcycles.com/servlet/the-*NEW*-ECU/Categories

As for tail chop I've cut down my list of kits to the competition werkes one or this: http://www.ducatimonstertailchop.com/

[xsephirot]

Looking for some adjustable levers also. Does anyone know if the S4RS levers are interchangeable with the S2R? Reason is JPRs are exactly the same quality as ASVs for half the price but they only list the 1098, S4R, and other superbikes on there but none for s2r.

[teddy037.3]

I really want a tail chop and to do my ecu and airbox

airbox is easy if you have a dremel, or really skilled at hacksawing   just cut the top of the airbox lid, above where the metal retaining clips snap in. once you have the tank up and look at it, it's pretty obvious.

install whatever flavor of aftermarket filter you like, and bingo! done.

just make sure you are ready w/ECU or something at that time, to keep the fuelling right

Looking for some adjustable levers also. Does anyone know if the S4RS levers are interchangeable with the S2R? Reason is JPRs are exactly the same quality as ASVs for half the price but they only list the 1098, S4R, and other superbikes on there but none for s2r.

pretty sure they're not.

the stock masters that your S2R have are the non-radial, 'larger' pivot type.  CRG/Pazzo/brembo are usually what you need to look for.

if you want the OE brembo type (4 pos'n adjuster) I have a set off my 'tard that should fit
your bike which I will gladly unload on the cheap 

[xsephirot]

Thanks for the info Teddy! Can you pm me your price?

On another note I've been looking at how to winterize my bike. Been really worried about the expanding tank issue. Has anyone here tried using seafoam? I still peruse many other forums occasionally and it seems to me alot of jap bikers are using it now in their fuel and oil to clean it out. It may even help with the expanding tank issue in addition to coating the tank with caswell.


http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-sea-foam-motor-treatment.html

[teddy037.3]

pm sent 

winterizing? what's that? 

*I are TOB's official hawaiian, and as such no nothing of this 'winter' y'all speak of

[Buckethead]

If you've already got the Caswell coating, you shouldn't have to worry about the tank expansion issue. The tanks expand because the plastic absorbs water. The Caswell coating seals the plastic off and keeps it from even coming into contact with the water. Ideally, anyway.

So for winterizing, all you really need to do is treat the fuel to keep it from oxidizing.

What I do:

1) Air up my tires to recommended pressure.
2) Fill the tank.
3) Add Sta-Bil or Sea Foam, your call, in the prescribed amount. Then let the bike sit for an hour or so to let the fuel treatment mix in.
4) Run the engine until it's warm. This will get the treated fuel down into the rest of the fuel system (fuel lines, injectors, etc).
5) Kill the engine. Let it cool. Pull a spark plug from each cylinder and spritz in some fogging oil.
6) Put the spark plug back. Do it now, before you misplace it.
7) Hook up the battery tender.
8 ) Put bike up on stands to avoid flat-spotting the tires.
9) Have a beer and try not to strain my arm patting myself on the back.

[xsephirot]

Excellent list buckethead! Only part I'm worried about is pulling the spark plugs as I have never done it before. And looking around seems like you need a special tool (something I've realized the past few weeks is that i've been buying lots and lots of "special" tools). Is there any benefits of pulling the spark plugs and spraying oil? I'm assuming its so that when you start it up again in a few months its easier?

*edit* I should also mention that my left rear blinker light is out. I swapped out bulbs with the right hand side as that was working and it still didn't work which eliminated a dead bulb. Took off the beer tray and made sure the line was in. I wasn't able to open up the whole light as my hex kit is being shipped from amazon. Got any ideas guys on the process of elimination now?

If you've already got the Caswell coating, you shouldn't have to worry about the tank expansion issue. The tanks expand because the plastic absorbs water. The Caswell coating seals the plastic off and keeps it from even coming into contact with the water. Ideally, anyway.

So for winterizing, all you really need to do is treat the fuel to keep it from oxidizing.

What I do:

1) Air up my tires to recommended pressure.
2) Fill the tank.
3) Add Sta-Bil or Sea Foam, your call, in the prescribed amount. Then let the bike sit for an hour or so to let the fuel treatment mix in.
4) Run the engine until it's warm. This will get the treated fuel down into the rest of the fuel system (fuel lines, injectors, etc).
5) Kill the engine. Let it cool. Pull a spark plug from each cylinder and spritz in some fogging oil.
6) Put the spark plug back. Do it now, before you misplace it.
7) Hook up the battery tender.
8 ) Put bike up on stands to avoid flat-spotting the tires.
9) Have a beer and try not to strain my arm patting myself on the back.

[Buckethead]

Fogging oil is like PAM for your combustion chamber. It leaves a nice, thin, even coat on all the surfaces. Just makes it so that any sort of corrosion that may want to take place has to fight for air. Probably not necessary, but it's cheap and it makes me feel better.

Yes, there is a special "spark plug socket," but it's a standard part (not Ducati-specific and therefore $4,723). Here's a Craftsman 18mm spark plug socket for $6. The nice thing about the spark plug sockets, as opposed to regular deep sockets, is that they usually have a rubber piece on the inside that holds the insulator nose. This keeps the plug inside the socket while it's upside down, rather than letting it fall onto the threads. Makes it much easier to pull AND reinstall plugs, especially when they're recessed.

A word of caution: when putting your plugs back into an aluminum cylinder head, 1) Always spin the plug backward first to make sure it's not crossthreaded. 2) Don't over-torque. Those threads can only take so much before they strip.

Edit: You will want to double check the size on the spark plug before you buy. Worst case, just stop by Auto Zone or someplace and pick up a single spark plug (NGK DCPR8E) to take with you for a test-fit.

As for how-to? http://www.ducatisuite.com/sparkplugs.html

[hunduc]

if you worry about the spark plug, just leave it alone. it is nice to go through that process, but certainly not necessary.

[ducatiz]

Edit: You will want to double check the size on the spark plug before you buy. Worst case, just stop by Auto Zone or someplace and pick up a single spark plug (NGK DCPR8E) to take with you for a test-fit.

As for how-to? http://www.ducatisuite.com/sparkplugs.html

NGK part 4339.  there are two versions of the DCPR8E spec plug.

[Buckethead]

Good catch, Tiz. Learn something new every day.