Removing Airbox

[bdfinally]

I need to remove my airbox in preparation for installing a new throttle cable (another story). Just looking it over I found a bolt to the frame in the front left of the box and the two hose clamps on top of the carbs. Loosened those and tried to jiggle the box, but it still feels rock solid. I've done a search, checked both the Haynes and LT Synder manuals. Looked at the parks schematic and looks like there's one other bolt towards the back of it. Anyone with FHE removing one? Thanks in advance.

oh yeah, '00 M750 carb

[knightrider]

i have a 94 so i dont know if its the same, but mine has 2 screws underneith the battery.

[clubhousemotorsports]

+1 to the battery screws.

the starter solenoid also likes to hold things down tight so pry the rubber holder off the metal barbs .
also unplug your ignition wires at the connector on the right side of the air box. You will also be removing your ignition switch to gain clearence.
good luck

[bdfinally]

Thanks guys, I did a little more digging and came acros this, anything missing in it?


1. Remove the seat and raise the tank. Use that little rod on the left side to hold it up. There is no need to remove the tank.

2. Drop the oil cooler down below the level of the front fender and leave it there until everything else is back together. You need it out of the way to get to the other things. Take the mirrors off too, since they'll just be in the way.

3. Remove the airbox top and filter. It's easier to pull them both off together rather than to pull off just the top and then the filter. Don't drop any of the clip pins. Use two hands to remove each clip and pin.

4. Remove the ignition switch so that the airbox will come out of the frame. Remove the plastic cover over the ignition switch, then using a 6mm allen wrench and a 12mm wrench, remove the bolts holding the switch in place. Move the ignition switch over to the side, out of the way.

5. Unplug the two positive battery connections from the connector on the main positive wire. This works better than disconnecting the battery at the battery terminal. (I've tried it both ways.)

6. Remove the 10mm nut for the negative connection underneath the battery box, remove the 2 wires and the gold colored wire that holds the air breather hose in place. Take a good look at how that gold wire piece is placed so that you can get it back the same way.

7. Disconnect the clear battery overflow tube, unclip the two rubber straps, and remove the battery. Put it somewhere out of the way.

8. Remove the two allen head bolts under the battery and the one 8mm bold under the front of the airbox.

9. Loosen the two hose clamps connecting the carburetor intakes to the airbox.

10. Disconnect the big hose from the airbox to the canister at the back of the bike. It's easier to disconnect at the back than at the front.

11. Pull off the starter relay under the battery case. Be careful to not unplug the wires from the ignition, or at least be aware if you do. I didn't realize that I had disconnected those wires and had to undo some of the reassembly to be able to plug the wires back on.

12. Disconnect the tube at the bottom front of the airbox that goes down to the bottom of the frame. This is easier to disconnect at the bottom by sliding the rubber grommet out of the holder, assuming you intend to put it back afterwards.

13. Unbolt the coil assembly from the airbox.

14. Unhook the 30A fuse on the right. This is easiest if you pull off the clear cover and pull out the fuse. Then insert a flat screwdriver into the back to release it and pull the assembly up.

15. Remove the airbox.

[clubhousemotorsports]

sounds like in the time it would have taken me to type that you could have had it apart and start reassembly

[knightrider]

yea thats way too much,

skip step 2, i have no idea why you would need to remove the mirrors, or the oil cooler.
but otherwise those steps will get the airbox off. 

[dlearl476]

Having just done this, here's my 2¢:

For all the "take off and get out of the way", I can't believe he suggested leaving the tank in place.  With all the crawling around you'll be doing in this area, it's tons easier to have the tank OFF and out of the way.  It takes all of 5 minutes and that way you don't risk pushing it over backwards and possibly cracking it at the hinge.  And fwiw, it's a really good time to examine your fuel lines and possibly replace them and your filter.

Take the battery out first. 

Be careful to not unplug the wires from the ignition, or at least be aware if you do. I didn't realize that I had disconnected those wires and had to undo some of the reassembly to be able to plug the wires back on.

I didn't have to re-do anything, but I did have to do a bunch of head scratching to figure out why when I hit the starter, I had NOTHING, after it was all back together.  I'd undone the molex connector from the switch just enough so it wasn't making contact.