Brake light stuck on...

[VeryMetal]

Problem - No increase in intensity of light when brake lever (front and rear) are depressed/ pulled. The rear light seems to be stuck on 'bright'. I'm pretty sure it's not my front microswitch, although my bike went over and those of you who saw my bent brake lever query will already know but I took it off last night and the switch seems to be absolutely fine. I'm not exactly sure about the rear one. The problem developed in the last week sometime. Is there any other kind of problem that could cause this? A short somewhere?

If anybody has experienced this before or has any ideas your input is much appreciated!

[Hedgehog]

The high filament on your brake light could be burned out.

[DoubleEagle]

I may have the same problem. I thought my rear brake light was not working , checked all the fuses and they were all ok and put back in tight ,pulled the bulb to go get a new one and both filaments are ok ? So I dont know what I've got ....a none working brake light ( light glows bright when the key is turned on but doesn't change any w/ pulling the hand lever or depressing the foot lever ) or a brake light that is stuck on as your post states ? I have a '07 S4Rs          I found the person who posted about their tach needle falling off and repairing it , you can send them a personal message    JDS 07S4Rs . If you look on page 3 under Tech where I posted about( '07 S4Rs speedometer problem ) and go down through the thread you'll see the Person you want to send the pm to.  Good luck and I'm glad you made it fairly ok. Very sorry about your bike.

[Hedgehog]

I just bought a new 1157 for my SS.  I had nothing but trouble with it, so I tried another new one.  Same thing.  It occurs to me that this may be a problem with the removal of lead from all things electronic.  The two little silver balls at the bottom of the light are solder.  In the good old days, this was a mix of 60% lead and 40% tin.  Now it's pretty much 100% tin, which isn't as malleable as lead.  As a result, it doesn't conform to the contacts as well, and may appear to be an open circuit.  My solution was to use a small screwdriver point to shine up the copper on the connector.  Seems to work, but if it fails again, I'm going to resolder the bulb with some 60/40 solder.

[Privateer]

I know you said it's not, but it could be the switch.  I had the opposite where it wouldn't come on at all.  I sprayed a lot of WD40 into the switch and tapped with with screwdriver handle and that fixed it.  It's an easy thing to eliminate before you start chasing shorts.

err, that sounded bad.


Andy

[RandyFloyd]

When I changed my brake lever there was a small metal pin that depressed the micro-switch that fell out.  I had the same problem, the brake light stayed on.  I found the pin and replaced it...working fine since.

[DoubleEagle]

I just bought a new 1157 for my SS.  I had nothing but trouble with it, so I tried another new one.  Same thing.  It occurs to me that this may be a problem with the removal of lead from all things electronic.  The two little silver balls at the bottom of the light are solder.  In the good old days, this was a mix of 60% lead and 40% tin.  Now it's pretty much 100% tin, which isn't as malleable as lead.  As a result, it doesn't conform to the contacts as well, and may appear to be an open circuit.  My solution was to use a small screwdriver point to shine up the copper on the connector.  Seems to work, but if it fails again, I'm going to resolder the bulb with some 60/40 solder.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 How do you know if your brake light is stuck on ....or doesn't work and all you are seeing is your running light  ?

[Hedgehog]

How do you know if your brake light is stuck on ....or doesn't work and all you are seeing is your running light  ?

There are two filaments in the bulb.  One is thin, that's the running light.  The other is thicker and a bit shorter, that is the brake light.

[dlearl476]

I just bought a new 1157 for my SS.  I had nothing but trouble with it, so I tried another new one.  Same thing.  It occurs to me that this may be a problem with the removal of lead from all things electronic. 

I've always had a lot better luck with P21/5W bulbs (the EU version of an 1157) in my vehicles.



They have a nickel plated body instead of a brass one and it's much less likely to corrode in the socket.  DAMHIK.

 

When I changed my brake lever there was a small metal pin that depressed the micro-switch that fell out.  I had the same problem, the brake light stayed on.  I found the pin and replaced it...working fine since.

I don't know if you guys have the same set-up as Randy and I, but that pin is critical.  Also, the switch is adjustable.  There are two tiny screw/nuts that loosen it, then it moves closer and further from the lever to adjust. The switch is open (brake light ON) further away and off when moved closer.  The pregnant dog is that you can get it working perfectly, then it moves when you tighten the two screws.  I've found that a certain mix of pr-tightening the screws, then setting the switch so that it BARELY opens (brake light on) at the end of the lever travel will net good results after the screws are tightened back down.

It's a PITA, and it takes a bit of patience and trial and error, but I think that's what you've got going on, unless you lost the pin taking the switch off.

[DarkStaR]

Test the switch(s) detached from the master/rearset.

Also, inspect the microswitch actuating pins, and how they actuate.

I had a similar problem on my 05 S2R803.

The front microswitch worked, but the mount had flexed out of spec (for no apparent reason).

I was able to fix the problem with a zip tie.

[brownwhale]

I had the same problem, ended up being something wrong with the rear brake switch, so I just unplugged it, I don't use that brake much and never without the fron also so its ok

[DuciD03]

Same problem when I replaced the ft break lever; a couple of things i noticed; theres 2 small screws that hold the swithch onto the break lever holder; the switch has very fine adjustment; so I found loosening one screw and rotating the switch is the easiest way to adjust it. 

Ths switch is pushed in by a bearing; the bearing fell out when I took off the lever the first time; this bearing also had alot of dirt / oil built up around so it was sticking; clean & lube, and watch you dont loose the bearing; the nub pushes the bearing out when you pull the lever and letting go of the lever pushes the bearing onto the nub pushing the nub in, turing the break light off.

  [moto]

[wengr]

when I took delivery of my 06 s2r1k the front brake microswitch was installed facing the wrong way, so nothing depressed the plunger and brake light always on. 

[Duck-Stew]

Check your fuses guys...

Also, if you're messing w/the tail-light (tail-chop or what-have-you), be sure to connect the yellow and red/grey wires correctly.  Otherwise, the brighter filament will be on and when you actuate the brake it will be hard to see the dimmer filament.

Also, the 2357 bulb is a heavier duty 1157...

[DoubleEagle]

There are two filaments in the bulb.  One is thin, that's the running light.  The other is thicker and a bit shorter, that is the brake light.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Both filaments are ok. Fuses are fine.