Rizoma bar end weights - instructions and questions

[metroplex]

Does anyone have instructions on how to install Rizoma bar end weights? I have a 696 and I suppose some other Ducati's also share the same handlebar ID that would take the Rizomas.

How much torque is required for the bar end screw?

Is there any risk to damaging the handlebar because of the bar end weight during a low side?

[thought]

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=48977.0

yours will be a little diff because of the diff diameter of your handlebars, but it's basically the same process.  no torque values though, just make sure it's tight.

and if you low side they will def be damaged, no way around it.  it's why they sell them in singles as opposed to pairs, so you can buy just one to replace the one you damaged.

[metroplex]

Thank you! Wow, so that's like $40 per bar end. Is there any reason I should ditch the stock plastic caps besides aesthetics? I've low sided twice with the plastic caps, once the cap started to wear down quite a bit and caused some rash on the handlebar and throttle but it wasn't anything serious. I figure with the Rizoma or any bar end weight, I'll have to replace the bar end weight and possible the handlebar because the bar end is stiffer/harder and could deform the handlebar tube?

[teddy037.3]

they have a delrin cap that screws in and acts as a bit of a slider.  iirc those are replaceable if you wear one down

they're also handy if you want rizoma barend mounted mirrors, so you don't have to slide your controls inward to make room on the bar.

they're $40 because they are pretty. and say "rizoma" on them

[metroplex]

I think I understand. The bar end weight is just that, and the slider version is the one with a plastic cap.

If I desire crash protection more than anything, would it be better to stick with the standard plugs? They're like $1-$2/ea and I can afford to just replace them as needed versus the $30-$40 for Rizoma.

[teddy037.3]

replacement slider caps for the rizoma are $14/pair at PJ's parts

if you're looking for protection, there are several options for the bars... the OEM nubbies are hardly substantial. also, the extra length of bar ends might save your levers from breaking.

do you have frame sliders?

[metroplex]

I've had my brake lever bent and scraped up but not broken so far. I do have frame sliders (Speedy Moto), fork sliders, and rear axle sliders.

I found that the front foot pegs will fold up (maybe crack in half) causing the gearshift or brake pedal to bend badly well before the frame slider touches the ground, and the bar ends then smack the ground.

[teddy037.3]

dang.  well, since you've got all the other sliders, the bars are about the only thing left 

getting slightly OT, but you said you low sided twice? how long have you been riding? how/why did they happen?

[metroplex]

For the bars, are the stock plugs really bad as sliders? They seem to be a softer plastic than the polyethylene used for the Speedymoto sliders, but they're inexpensive enough to keep a bunch in a ziploc bag.

For the low sides, it was mainly because I wasn't used to riding. I've only started early this year, the first time was because I got the rear tire on wet grass and hit cold pavement without breaking in the tires thoroughly. The second was because I accidentally opened the throttle too much when the engine was cold and the abrupt fueling startled me, I guess I panicked and used too much rear brake. Basically me being an idiot.

[teddy037.3]

the plugs are just that: plugs for the bar. also, the added length of the bar end/slider helps keep the levers from smacking the ground. a broken clutch or brake lever will quickly ruin your day.

have you taken an MSF class? they're good stuff.

[metroplex]

Good point about the longer slider, although in one instance the lever contacted the ground first due to the angle of impact. A longer bar end/slider wouldn't have helped.

I took and passed the MSF BRC and I thought it wasn't very good and certainly didn't give me the confidence I wanted. They focused way too much on U-Turns/Figure 8's and low-speed (5-10 MPH) stuff more suited for a Harley. The bikes were far too tame and after getting acquainted with the 696, I wouldn't feel safe with a 125cc or 250cc on our surface streets which frequently have 50-55 MPH speed limits. I was WOT in 1st and 2nd gear during the MSF BRC with my Honda trainer bike and they had horrible throttle response w/ a rear drum brake that never got close to locking up. I also spent quite a bit of time just waiting for the other riders to coast along for the cornering exercise and cones, so I never got a feel for the bike. In contrast, my 696 has a touchy throttle that the G2 Tamer helped with, and I can easily overpower vehicles without overdriving the bike, but it isn't too insane.

I plan to take the MSF Advanced course next year and maybe go to some of the California Superbike 2-day camps as well.

[xcaptainxbloodx]

bar end sliders wont do a lot to protect anything other than the ends of the bars. in most wrecks the force of the bar hitting and getting bent necessitates the replacement and the sliders wont really prevent that. heavy bar end weights can reduce vibration at the bars (and there are brands that specifically design for that)

your frame sliders are not designed to protect your foot controls. they are very effective at preventing engine/frame damage (and even the tank to a degree).  they are there to prevent your bike from being totaled. your bike could very well have been considered totaled in those 2 low sides had either your frame or engine be scratched or dented (even if it was only cosmetic).

folding clutch and brake levers will do more to keep your bike road worthy after a crash, rizoma also makes some aluminum "lever guards" that look like they may help too.



my advice is to not really worry about it. get the bar ends you like based on looks, get some folding levers if you like the piece of mind (they're adjustable too).  Then just ride safe, you have protected the bike as much as possible. shit will happen and there isnt an accessory in the world that will take the sting (or prevent 100% of the damage) when you go down.

[thought]

the rizomas arent the only choice in terms of bar ends, check out this page for some other cheap options:

http://www.monsterparts.com/c/Bar-Acc/Bar-Acc.html

the reason you get rizoma is mainly for the bling/fit/finish.  since you're pretty worried about banging up your bike, getting one of the cheaper sets is prob a better idea.

[teddy037.3]

I took and passed the MSF BRC and I thought it wasn't very good and certainly didn't give me the confidence I wanted. They focused way too much on U-Turns/Figure 8's and low-speed (5-10 MPH) stuff more suited for a Harley.

IMO, the low speed stuff is tricker, and certainly applicable to street riding, regardless of what you're on.  I was also surprised at how many bad habits I had picked up over the years (just re-took the BRC last week, riding my own bike).  I ended up leaving the class ALOT more confident on the bike, as far as street/traffic situations are concerned.

the BRC/ERC really aren't meant to be track/race type instruction

< / threadjack >

[metroplex]

What I meant was that a lot of the low speed stuff was tricky but not useful. The turn radius of my 696 is fairly wide, I tried doing a U-turn on my subdivision and it wasn't possible. I don't recall a situation where I needed to do a Figure 8 either. But making a right or left turn from a stop or leaving a tight parking spot are realistic scenarios that aren't really taught in the class.

If I were to take the BRC again, I wouldn't have a problem though.