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Author Topic: Pod Filters  (Read 7109 times)
He Man
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« Reply #15 on: December 17, 2011, 06:14:45 AM »

ive gone from Airbox to CA-cycleworks pod filters with no velocity stack. absolutely killed my low end. i didnt put more than 300miles on it before going back to airbox. they sit on my shelf for sale if anyone wants to prove me other wise.
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« Reply #16 on: December 17, 2011, 09:40:05 AM »

Personally, and I hope to one day prove this.
a large airbox with forward facing intakes and a large K&N filter or filters with enough surface area to at least double stock airfilter.

then variable length intake trumpets that are short during low RPMS and long at high RPMS, using either a small motor/rheostat hooked into the rpm circuit
or trumpets that vary in length depending on throttle input using a cable from the throttle bodies.

No need, race teams have been doing this for awhile mostl'y on motors that have high rpm limits. I think about 3 years ago the Yamaha R1 came out with electronic v-stacks that vary in length to provide more HP over the rpm range, it works. In fact the new MV 675 triple boasts a "new larger air box" as part of there marketing.
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brad black
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« Reply #17 on: December 18, 2011, 04:43:00 AM »

ive gone from Airbox to CA-cycleworks pod filters with no velocity stack. absolutely killed my low end. i didnt put more than 300miles on it before going back to airbox. they sit on my shelf for sale if anyone wants to prove me other wise.

the wasp set up and the like use the rubber tubes to the airbox and replace the bellmouth inside the airbox with a machined bellmouth and put a pod over that that doesn't touch the bellmouth.  removing the rubber tubes and airbox bellmouth and then fitting a pod direct to the throttle body is guaranteed to give a bad result.  you've changed the shape, length and entry of the inlet system.

the inlet system starts when the air first flows into a tube of some sort.  you need to keep that in mind when making any inlet mods.
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xcaptainxbloodx
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« Reply #18 on: December 18, 2011, 01:54:07 PM »

just got a paul smart with the TPO beast R kit and full arrow exhaust/PCIII dynoed, 91 hp. the bike is advertised to have 92 stock.

could be a lot of things but this is a dyno that usually reads a bit high (like 5-15 over what you expect).
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scduc
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« Reply #19 on: December 18, 2011, 02:44:08 PM »

Why has no one dyno'd before and after. Well, my guess is that most of us do the work ourselves then take it in to have fine tuned. Clearly the dyno's run high. that is so the customer feels like the mods have big gains. The manufactures post high so that the customers feels like he getting a rocket. The concensus tells us that an ECU exhaust and intake nets about 7hp so even if the pods drop 2 or 3, the changes are still on the + side. Then you add in the clean look and awesome sound, well I say its a wash. Either way, you have to have someone who knows what they are doing when they tune it in. Just because you've made some changes, doesn't mean that its going to run better (or worse).
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« Reply #20 on: December 18, 2011, 03:10:16 PM »

I did a before and after dyno , pods had 0.7 hp less , i can live with that
Air box was with K&N filter with those rubber trumpets removed
Pods are on the rubbertubes
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Howley
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« Reply #21 on: December 18, 2011, 09:04:53 PM »

0.7 less than closed airbox with no trumpets?? So fully open should be even higher right?
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xcaptainxbloodx
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« Reply #22 on: December 18, 2011, 10:54:14 PM »

0.7 less than closed airbox with no trumpets?? So fully open should be even higher right?

yes. if pods were a performance gain then GP guys would be running them right? the fact that they dont tells us that there is some voodoo in having an airbox over pods. if you want HP you need a large body of still air, if you want "cool" you want pods.

thats not a "make the beast with two backsoff poseur pods" statement, thats a "know what your spending cash on" statement. theres nothing wrong picking looks over speed, especially when were talking a minor loss in power for a streetbike that can go over 100 without flinching.
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Howley
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« Reply #23 on: December 19, 2011, 01:58:34 PM »

Never realized pods were so low (or I guess that a de-trumpeted airbox was so high)
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« Reply #24 on: December 19, 2011, 03:57:28 PM »

just got a paul smart with the TPO beast R kit and full arrow exhaust/PCIII dynoed, 91 hp. the bike is advertised to have 92 stock.

That number is at the crank.

My sport 1000 dynoed 82 hp at the wheel stock.
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« Reply #25 on: December 19, 2011, 07:11:37 PM »

good point. I know of a paul smart with just the exhaust getting about 86hp. like I said, this dyno is 5-15hp high on most bikes so that still puts us far under what TPO advertises.

the other thing to consider is that on a dyno the bike has quiet air to suck in. you will get a drastically different combustion over the turbulent air that the pods suck in at speed then what you get in a nice quiet dyno room.   this is why getting pods to run perfect is so difficult, especially on the Ducs forward facing intakes.
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memetic
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« Reply #26 on: December 27, 2011, 04:40:39 PM »

So, for any easy gain in HP the best option is to remove the trumpets and that's it?

And, the pods are basically for show and sound?
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« Reply #27 on: December 28, 2011, 08:10:21 AM »

And, the pods are basically for show and sound?

For me, just for show...not so much for sound cuz my D&D are wayyyy too loud (not as loud as HD) for me to hear to Pods.

If you get pods...should try out Amazon...I got 2 K&N pods for $45 shipped.
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