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Author Topic: Trailer - tie down anchors  (Read 6880 times)
ab
ab
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ab


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« Reply #15 on: February 11, 2012, 05:19:03 PM »

GOD do I wish I could find those pics....

Yeah, where are the pics?   coffee  huh ?  huh ?  find 'em yet.  It's not up on iCould somewhere.    Roll Eyes 
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620M 2004 Dark i.e.; ~ 57K miles (all me);  Looking to swap out engine now.
Triumph Speed Triple 2006 (now ~ 44K miles bought @ 4K miles on 04/2010)
Honda Grom 2015 ~ 3500miles so far.  Love this lil bike
DuciD03
.... when did that happen...?
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BTW: thats a bad pic of Bono, not me .... ;)


« Reply #16 on: February 20, 2012, 09:19:00 PM »

.... popcorn.....

Iv done some moving of many mototcycles (and one tractor and a bunch of other stuff) on 2 different trailers and on one hitch bike carrier; and rebuilt one trailer frame up ....propely installed D ring tiedowns are cheap and worth there weight in gold for piece of mind.

Tie downs & D rings; look at the rating and I go at least double the load rating on D rings and straps.  If it says safe working load 300 lbs; that means a "perfect webbing strap with no little cuts" ... go big or ... loose your bike off the back of the trailer ... and go home (crying).  This may not account for pothole combined with an emergency stop ... (... why is my bike still moving toward the rear windshield?  ... will be the last thing that goes through your mind ... before your bike does)

D rings - check the rating and think ... bike today; tractor tomorrow ... 3 bucks for the 1000 lb d ring; 8 bucks for the 5000 lb d ring; ... you do da math ...

Install D ring through through ply and drilled through the metal sub fram studs; if possible ... secured with nuts with nylon or lock washers and or locktight are always a good idea ... if possible ... 2 front and 2 back minimum;extra 2 forward / reaward for the handlebars / frame are nice ...

webbing ... at least one strap looped low around the bottom of a rim / tire ... that way the wheel is locked in place; if you incorporate a wheel chock then around that too and its really locked in place ... I try to place straps around the non suspension fram parts; suspension ... well bounces ... then one ratching strap opposite the kickstand and sinch her down to compress the suspension ... straps and hooks rub and abrade pint

wheel chocks; like em ... but they've been knowen to bend front rotors ... load carefully

load trailer with at least 10% of weight on the hitch ... less back and forth bouncing AND on hard stops less likeleyhood of jacknifing.

also trailer frames must be towed level so get the proper off set ball and hitch ...so the trailers level

check all trailer lights the night before and replace bulbs; wiring; lenses .....

...etc...

 Dolph


 
« Last Edit: February 20, 2012, 09:35:35 PM by DuciD03 » Logged

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