Showa Blues, part 1&2.

[pajazo]

Do you mean that the öhlins and k-tech use a "loose" rod resting on the needle like in you mod? Then I believe it's not a problem. It is on the sprung side of the suspension too, so I guess it is quite safe to use. I have no idea how stiff the needle spring is but the upward acceleration is probably not very great on bumps so if the spring is stiff enough it should be ok.

Srad means suzuki ram air direct but is usually used to mean the 1996-1999 generation of gsx-r.

[MonsterHPD]

Do you mean that the öhlins and k-tech use a "loose" rod resting on the needle like in you mod? Then I believe it's not a problem. It is on the sprung side of the suspension too, so I guess it is quite safe to use. I have no idea how stiff the needle spring is but the upward acceleration is probably not very great on bumps so if the spring is stiff enough it should be ok.

Srad means suzuki ram air direct but is usually used to mean the 1996-1999 generation of gsx-r.

Yes, that´s correct. My Öhlins uses the same system with maybe a 3 mm rod instead. K-tech has used the same system for years with no issues, and Kayaba forks are (reportedly) like that also. I do not think it is an issue.

it is probably a slightly more elegant solution to use a slightly thinner control rod, and seal the drainage holes in the top nut insted. I used the 5 mm rod in order to skimp on the top nut sealing.... suppose the lazy streak will manifest itself given just the slightest opportunity 

Srad, OK, thanks, then I know what you are talking about.

Just as "collateral information"; I had the opportunity to look at a dissasembled fork from (I think) a 1993 900 Supersport. The fork looks slightly different wit the compression adjuster behind the fork legs, but the basic internals lookef just the same with the tell-tale orifice atthe top of the damper rod, and the "short" adjuster needle. Seems Ducati has used this system for a very long time.

[MonsterHPD]

Well,
the dedicated kit for the 50/54 mm "adjustable" Showas on Monsters, 900SS/SSie, ST4, etc...  is here.

Part number is 20SSK-INT-SHO-13, and you should be able to order it from K-Tech or their dealers. I don´t know the price of the kit, but if you install it I think you´ll be happy with the results.

[pajazo]

I disassembled the forks of my 95 superlight yesterday.

The fork bottom bolts came out easily without a rattle gun when the fork caps were still in place.

The rebound holders were incredibly tight and I could not clamp the damper rods tightly enough to undo the threads. Today made a trip to a hardware store to get a heat gun and after generous heating the stacks came off easily. The thread lock Showa uses seems to be really tough stuff. The heat gun is a must in this job.

I also improvised a wooden holder which worked very well for clamping the rods without scratching them. I made small grooves to two wooden blocks with a saw and then pressed them together in a vise. Then using the pre-cut grooves as a guide, I drilled a hole throught the blocks first with a smaller bit and after that a 8mm bit (the rod diameter is 10mm).






This way it was easy to grip the rod tightly enough to undo the rebound holders without needing a lathe chuck. I will get the k-tech parts today so i will continue later.

[MonsterHPD]

Hi,
nice work, all experiences are very valuable for anyone doing this mod (and for me).

I´ve had a report that there has been a problem with assembling th erebound stack holder into the stock cartrige rod. I´m not sure about the exact details yet, but it could be due to the condition mentioned in section 4 of the tutorial, between pictures 4c and 4d.

Clean out the unthreaded portion of the rod properly, and make sure the holder is entering the thread correctly.   

[pajazo]

I got the forks together today and have had a short test ride (although in wet weather, and still tweaking the settings) but the impression so far is good.

I had some difficulties fitting the kit because the threading of the lower end of the damper rod to which the rebound stack holder attaches was not exactly straight (even the stock rebound stack holders were a little tilted to side) and that caused the needles to bind in between the rod and holder so they wouldn't return when pressed shut. I got around the problem by cutting the thick section in half and machining some metal away from the lower part (see pic). The upper cut off part must be used to seal the inside of the rod. I didn't seal the holes at the fork cap at all because the thick part of the adjuster needle fitted so closely inside the damper rod that i couldn't feel any air passing when i tried to blow past it.

Apparently this problem is caused by the poor machining tolerance of the stock rod.

[MonsterHPD]

Thanks for sharing your experiences. This is the first time I hear of cocked threads in the cartridge rod, very good you found a solution.

I hope anyone doing this mod and experience a problem / find a solution / find an improvement will post here for the benefit of us all.

[pajazo]

Today I had a 250km ride trough a lot of twisties and had an opportunity to try different adjustments to the forks. I have now 30mm sag, rebound 1 turn out and comp 1 2/3 turn out and I really like how the front end feels. I'm still going to try a little bit less preload for the next ride.

[MonsterHPD]

Hi, all.

I checked with Chris Taylor at K-tech; seems apart from Pajezo only the kits I´ve flogged have been sold. I don´t want to sound like a K-tech sales rep, but compared to a set of better forks from another bike, this kit is really not a lot of trouble or cost.
Really nobody going to try this...?   

[Privateer]

it's on my list, but I'll admit I'm pretty intimidated.

[MonsterHPD]

it's on my list, but I'll admit I'm pretty intimidated.

So was I the first time I disobeyed the Duc workshop warning "do not disassemble the cartridge", but in the end it worked out OK. So, be respectful, or whatever the correct english word might be, but don´t be intimidated. It´s not bad enough for that   

[Privateer]

So was I the first time I disobeyed the Duc workshop warning "do not disassemble the cartridge", but in the end it worked out OK. So, be respectful, or whatever the correct english word might be, but don´t be intimidated. It´s not bad enough for that   

it's not that so much as the vast array of recommend tools I don't have.  Which means I'd have to pay someone to do it which makes it even more expensive.

[MonsterHPD]

it's not that so much as the vast array of recommend tools I don't have.  Which means I'd have to pay someone to do it which makes it even more expensive.

Well, maybe I´ve gotten a bit spoiled by having access to to basic workshop machinery  

Anyway, the first time I did this I had the following:
The spring compressor handle, which a friend made for me. You need something like this, but it does not have to be professional standard;
The slotted washer to keep the spring down while loosening the top nut;
Impact wrench to loosen the bottom screw / compression adjuster. One Duc club member who did this mod used a long handle and a hammer I think and it worked for him even though I never tried that.
Drill press of some kind to drill out the dimples;
Hot air gun to fry any thread locking compund; I suppose this could be done by baking them in the oven.
A 3-jaw chuck is nice, but a slotted wood block or Alu block to hold the piston rod in a vise while working on the rebound piston holder also works OK.
I suppose a torque wrench for tightening the bottom screw/compression adjuster is not ultimately necessary, but working on bikes one should really have one anyway.

Of course it depends on what circumstances one has; living in a house with a garage (that did not see a car inside in at least 15 years   ) I have most tools except workshop machines, when I lived in an apartment I did not and I´d have had a problem as well.

I think that was it. All deburring I made with a fine-grade rat-tail file and emery cloth, and all washing was with solvent and without compressed air since I did not have a compressor at the time.

I don´t know if this helps any, but in the end the whole thing is pretty basic, really. 

[hnracing]

Hi,
Please see below how a Showa Blues modified forks looks like mounted on a Monster 
No need for a Öhlins front end.
By far one of the least expensive performance mod on the bike.
The winter is long so start order the K-Tech kit and begin to diasamble the forks.
/Henrik

[MonsterHPD]

Hi.

I have made a few clarifications concerning control length and added a few pictures (Fig 9d...). The method described in the tutorial to determine the control length still applies, but if you use the ...SHO13 kit from K-Tech, the new figures shows the outcome and should save you the hassle of measuring, subtracting and so on. Just measure the cartridge rod as described, and make the control rod shorter by the specified amount. The dimensions given are valid provided you have also taken the needle tip off the stock adjuster clicker screw/rebound needle. I hope this will make this part of the operation a little easier. 

Kind regards,
Torbjörn.