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Author Topic: SR4t "project" - updated 4/2/11  (Read 60277 times)
TAftonomos
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« Reply #150 on: April 03, 2011, 04:51:41 PM »

999 rotors (aluminum carriers) w/TPO buttons (lighter as well)

I think I'm gonna mill the covers.  If I can score a set of carbon covers for good $$$ I'll snag'em.

I might move the preload adjuster when I get the shock rebuilt.  The darn hose they include with the thing is way to long.  Other side of the bike has the ohlins steering damper (side mount) on it, so no room there.  I had a suspension guy tell me he could rebuild the entire shock...plan was to have it ano'd like the forks.  After 2 months of having the shock he shipped it back and told me "sorry, couldn't do it".  Maybe I will end up with a different shock without the damn octopus contraption this one has.  The pre-load adjuster is on the footpeg bracket, other side btw.

Hopefully I'll feel like working on it again after the season is over.....aluminum subframe, more cleaning up, perhaps under-engine exhaust.    I just want to ride the damn thing now!

You think black out the exhaust as well?  Or are you talking the silver ceramic?
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booger
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« Reply #151 on: April 03, 2011, 06:10:48 PM »

No no no! Keep that exhaust, it's tha bomb. You didn't say whether it had glass packing in the mufflers or not. If there were a place to buy something just like it for the other S*R bikes I'd have it by now instead of my home-core job. It really is my favorite.

Now that you mention it, I don't know whether I would semi-flat ceramic blackout the exhaust or do the silverchrome ceramic to it. I'm conflicted there. That silver ceramic looks gooood. It doesn't look like chrome, it has a polished AL or silver look to it. Makes it look a bit lighter and more expensive. But black would go with your bike better. I have a Quat-D midpipe with stock everything else, sent it to Jet-Hot and had it flat black ceramic'ed. It really does lower the surface temps and has held up admirably for the 3+ years I've been running it. If I had it to do over again I'd go semigloss, easier to clean.

After Köpfjaeger's your bike is my second fave. It's grrrrrrreeattt. Post a vid up in HD so we can hear that sucka waytogo
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Everybody got a plan 'till they get punched in the mouth - Mike Tyson

2001 M900Sie - sold
2006 S2R1000 - sold
2008 HM1100S - sold
2004 998 FE - $old
2007 S4RT
2007 Vespa LX50 aka "Slowey"
2008 BMW R1200 GSA
junior varsity
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« Reply #152 on: April 04, 2011, 07:53:15 AM »

man, a big ol' +1 on ceramic coating. Especially on the S*R and SF exhaust systems where its so close to your boot heels, or on really any Desmoquattro/Testastretta motor where a ton of heat is put out.   And even on DSS 2v Monsters with high pipes, since the hot pipes are routed closer to the riders legs.

Anyhow, I did mine the "ultra-high" temp finish in a chrome or chromex something or other named look. Its advertised as a bright, shiny finish - and it does look great. Its dulled a bit after a few years worth of heat cycles, but I think it looks fantastic still - perhaps better? (because I did not have the pipes done at the same time - they are titanium and I am not into taking some NCR pipes apart and risk botching reassembly to lose part of it down the highway while riding along).


How easy was the TPO buttons install?
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TAftonomos
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« Reply #153 on: April 04, 2011, 09:41:23 AM »

The cans have a perf core/wrapped and packed.  Sound level is a small bit louder than a termi setup.  I'll investigate the temps needed to ceramic coat the exhaust....if the packing will survive it I'll probably spring for it.  I'm thinking the silver would be much better than the black, almost make the exhaust the focal point of the bike.

TPO buttons were easy.  Just carefully grind off the stock ones and re-install.  Helps to leave a few stockers on the rotor and replace them as you go...otherwise it's a bit tricky to balance the rotor within the carrier while you are getting a few buttons on.
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junior varsity
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« Reply #154 on: April 04, 2011, 09:53:41 AM »

Ah. that makes sense. Did you need to use the shims? Reading other posts about replacing buttons, I've seen people mention shims for free play and various thicknesses - Since I haven't ripped up a rotor to do this before, its a bit foreign. (I assume its really pretty obvious when you are actually doing it).
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TAftonomos
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« Reply #155 on: April 04, 2011, 10:07:35 AM »

The button kit was the button, a washer and the C clip.  I may end up ordering some wave washers from McMaster carr to take up some more of the free play.  The rotors can move a decent amount side to side...more so that I would call "normal".
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Raux
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« Reply #156 on: April 04, 2011, 11:30:18 AM »

mine are like that.
a wave washer, but still not solid mount like the stock 696.
you can move it but it doesnt rattle
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Oldfisti
Some call it a sub, dagwood, hoagie or footlong. I just call it my...
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« Reply #157 on: April 06, 2011, 08:06:42 AM »

Curious to know how those 54mm throttle bodies are gonna work out for you...
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It's like I keep saying:  Those who would sacrifice a free range session for a giant beer, deserve neither free range time nor a giant beer.
i have had guys reach back and grab my crotch in an attempt to get around me. i'll either blow in their ear or ask them politely to let go of my wang.
TAftonomos
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« Reply #158 on: July 30, 2011, 04:10:58 AM »

Update -

After chasing down all kinds of running problems, I reverted back to the stock (dp) ecu and throttles.  Turns out the motor ate something (may have seen my "make the beast with two backs me" thread).  Well, this AM I'm all kinds of excited to say...that the heads are back on the bike after being fixed up.

I'm headed out to find a sacrificial 14mm 12pt wrench, so I can make the tool needed to torque down the head studs with.  After that it should be smooth sailing.  Can't wait....this means I actually get to RIDE my monster (which has been down/apart/parked) for a long time, AND it means I have mo space to begin working more with the 2v stuff that is anxiously waiting.

Did I mention I found some Ohlins forks off a 888 SPO for my 900ss  waytogo waytogo
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CDawg
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« Reply #159 on: August 01, 2011, 01:19:34 PM »

Just lovely!  All the bests!
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TAftonomos
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« Reply #160 on: August 01, 2011, 03:31:08 PM »

It runs, and runs well....just won't idle.

I've sent off for the cables needed to use the ducatidiag software, which will allow me to reset TPS and other things for free Smiley.

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dbran1949
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« Reply #161 on: August 01, 2011, 03:38:46 PM »

Any links? cables and software???

Thanks
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TAftonomos
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« Reply #162 on: August 02, 2011, 04:53:39 PM »

Fiat 3 pin OBD

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053NRLHE

OBD to USB adaptor:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WIN8VQ

I just uploaded my ECU dump to the site, and I'm awaiting my unlock.  I can start a new thread if you like, but this allows you to do everything that VDST does (and more) for free.  For a small fee (100 euros) you can have complete access, flash maps, remove immobilizer, etc.
 waytogo
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dbran1949
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« Reply #163 on: August 02, 2011, 09:37:04 PM »

Thanks
This is very interesting, start a new thread if you like but please keep us updated on this
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billg69gmc
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« Reply #164 on: August 03, 2011, 08:24:22 PM »

Thanks
This is very interesting, start a new thread if you like but please keep us updated on this

I did an extensive write up on TOB, SF Forum. Feel free to look it over. http://www.ducati.ms/forums/138-streetfighter/113620-oh-my-5.html

Performed a DP Flash to my 08 Hyper, Lots of links there too... JP is the Frenchman who wrote the software. http://ducatidiag.xooit.com/index.php

You have to jump thru a few hoops, but you get a stable piece of software that does the exact functions of the VDST for the cost of a two cables off of amazon... So you are out $40.

If you choose to buy his Writer software, it's 100 Euros for the first ECU, 50 Euros for ECU's after that. Your original ECU map is saved to your hard drive, plus JP has a copy. You download actual DP maps from his site. There is also a piece of software, ECM, that allows you to read a map, export it to CSV, edit it, and re-flash to the ECU. That and the Belt Tuning App, which is pretty damn cool as well. Throw JP a few bucks if you do just the DucatiDiag, he has definitely earned it!

His software works on the 5AM and 59AM, he is also experimenting with earlier ECU's. Make sure you have Google Translate or something similar to read thru the web site.

I make no money off this. I was just an interested tuner who wrote up his experience. If you fry your ECU by hooking up the power leads backwards, then shame on you.
« Last Edit: August 03, 2011, 08:29:58 PM by billg69gmc » Logged

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