1000DS closer shim adjustment

He Man · March 30, 2012, 11:30:46 AM

It doenst really have anything special. Its just ergonomic. They put ringed grooves on the face to make it grip the closing rocker arm better.

i personally just use a brass punch. if you do slip for some reason (my flat punch hasnt slipped on me) the brass shouldnt hurt anything. and if it does, it shouldnt be that significant.

WetDuc · March 30, 2012, 12:37:51 PM

Upon closer inspection, it seems the EMS tool is a lever that contacts the closer rocker at the front fork of the rocker. What I did was jam the back of the rocker.
I don't think you can let go of the EMS tool and have the closer stayed depressed...
But when you jam the back of the rocker you can fully let go of everything and do work. I think hard plastic would be a nice jamming material. Maybe 6 inch long and about 1/3" square.

He Man · March 30, 2012, 11:55:11 PM

the EMS closing rocker arm tool is just a over glorified punch.

it does nothing worth its value unless you are working on bikes all day, OR your working on a 4v where the ergonomics of the tool are quite usefull

i personally use a 8mm allen key. then i pull it out so the rocker arm slaps the closing shim so it seats the collets.

He Man · March 31, 2012, 05:33:33 PM

Did my valves today and snaped some pics and wrote a short supplemental note to help DS1000 users.

http://kuixihe.com/node/43

WetDuc · March 31, 2012, 05:44:53 PM

Thanks for the write up.
My DS has no timing sight glass.

Smokescreen · March 31, 2012, 08:12:34 PM

Are you sure there isn't a site glass on the left case cover above and behind the alternator?

WetDuc · April 01, 2012, 05:11:52 AM

I am 100% sure there is no timing sight glass on my DS, 695 or 696.
All the bikes just have smooth cases on bothsides except for the oil sight glass on the lower right case.
Is it really needed? I am sure I am working at compression TDC by way of pinky in spark plug hole method.
In any case, I put an order into EMS for new shims and will be assembling everything this week then moving on to a TB sync and CO tweak.
I very much appreciate ya'lls continuing help.

He Man · April 01, 2012, 05:54:09 AM

I cant verify that. IF you have the DS1100 motor you defintely dont have it. not sure about the others.

you just need to make sure the dots on the timing belt line up. and the piston is at tdc for the front cylinder

then you know that the front is at TDC-Compression. pinky in spark plug method is ehhh sketchy at best. i would stick a screw driver in there and feel when the piston stops coming up.

my main gripe with not having that sight is that TDC-C sort of lingers. since the piston is moving its slowest point. So you can be at TDC-C and the flywheel can move a few degrees and you wont really notice the piston moving at all.

Someone else can better chime in on finding TDC for motors without the sightglass.

K3V1N · April 01, 2012, 09:16:30 AM

My 07 doesn't have a window but it does have a plug that comes out easy to look for the tDC mark. I also hold my finger over the hole to feel for compression.

He Man · April 01, 2012, 01:15:30 PM

that plug makes it easier to manufacture i guess. Can you snap a picture of it for me so i can throw it in my tech notes?

K3V1N · April 02, 2012, 10:59:56 AM

Sure I will try and snap a photo tonight.

WetDuc · April 02, 2012, 11:47:57 AM

Yea, mine has a plug as well. So that plug can simply be removed and then the timing marks are visible?

Smokescreen · April 03, 2012, 11:43:35 AM

I'd like to see a picture of this plug as well!!!

K3V1N · April 03, 2012, 01:53:10 PM

Here is a photo I found online.

You unscrew that plug were the window should be to look inside.

WetDuc · April 03, 2012, 04:34:43 PM

Ho dang! Just popped the right engine case plug on my DS and low and behold there is the timing mark. Nice to know.
I got my closers on. Bought a large one from the dealer and was able to sand the others to fit (each closer was moved to the next smallest required shim, smallest one was no longer used). It was very rewarding to feel the cams bind and then feel the binding dissapear after sanding the shim enough. Very cool.
My closers may not all be at zero but they are damn close and all are below .002".
My openers all just got sanded and were good after that at .004".
I got tired and stopped for today, but tomorrow I will tension belts and do the TB sync and A/F tune and hopefully be set up!
I want to sincerely thank ya'll for the help on this and the past posts I've made.
I will put together a few notes on my experience and add them here as well tomorrow.

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1000DS closer shim adjustment