695 mods and revamp

[rozer]

Hi Susyj,

Any update on your work on the 695?
I'm very interested to see your progress.

Rgrds.

[graydo]

Just discovered this post and read it from front to back... twice....

Great work and thanks for sharing

Looking forwards to seeing how it all ends 

[suzyj]

It'll be a little while as I'm currently crating the bike for a move to the other side of the country.

[graydo]

Perth?

[dbran1949]

Suzy
Great work. I have been rewiring and replacing electronics since my '65 MGB (Lucas is Latin for Dark) and   every bike since my 305 Superhawk. Haven't touched the S4RS though never seem to have enough time anymore. This has been a very interesting read and glad to see there are still people willing to tackle such issues

BTW did the same work on the MGB cast iron head you did on your bike - the neighbors loved me

[Dwardle]

My 695 engine has a ton of that paint discoloration as well.  I see that you sandblasted yours, but I'm really not looking to do a complete tear down of the engine at this point.

Are there any other ways to remove the paint discoloration, like maybe a dremel to get it down to the metal again?

[Lieutenant Dan]

Hey Suzy,

I've started down the engine rebuild path myself recently:


Day 1

One question I have for you is how much of a process was it to sand blast your heads to get down to the metal? This is something I would love to do to my 695 while I have the engine apart, but I have never sand blasted anything before... Wondering if its something I can do with reasonably professional looking results in my garage or if it's something I'm going to have to send the heads away for...  Thanks, and good luck with the rest of your 695 project! I think a lot of us are following with great anticipation for your next progress update!

Dan

[suzyj]

Here's how I'm doing my indicators.

Basically, adding ballast resistors so your indicators don't flash at double rate really offends me. I think it's much better to disable the circuitry that detects a blown bulb.

So on modern Monsters like mine, the indicators are driven from a little circuit in the gauges. It's a BTS711L1 quad high side driver, from Infineon. This little guy has four power mosfets inside, and uses them to switch the indicators. Each indicator has its own mosfet. Google-fu tells me that the BTS711L1 has a pair of "status" outputs, which pull to ground when there's a fault (like a blown bulb), telling the microprocessor in the gauges that something's amiss. When all is well, the status outputs are open collector, which means they are only connected into circuit when there's a problem.

To ensure there's no problem, let's remove them from the circuit.

First, we pull the gauges off the bike and pull the back cover off. This is what we see:



To get at the other side of the PCB where all the circuitry is, we need to pull the board off the front bezel. Start by popping the two little tabs on each side:



So now here's a view from the front, with bezel removed. The pointers have to come out to get the PCB loose. This is done by pulling the little round bits off, and then popping a screwdriver under the clear pointer at the base and levering it up. It's on the shaft pretty firm, so some courage is needed:



Once that's done for both tacho and speedo, flip it over, undo the two screws, and pop the four plastic tabs, and you'll have the PCB free. This is what it looks like:



The little dude that drives our indicators is in the middle, with the label "BTS711L1". The pins are pretty small. You'll need some very teensy cutters to cut them without mauling other pins. I borrowed a pair from my work, where I spend my days working on teeny-tiny electronics, in thumping big radiotelescopes:



We want to cut pins four and eight. Afterwards it should look like this:



Voila. Now reassemble, put it back on the bike, and enjoy.

Just for fun, I moved the current regulator board that came with my Rizoma indicators from the positive side to the negative, and used one board to drive both indicators at the back. This works because only one side flashes at any given time. I hid the little board in the wiring loom, so it's out of the way. I also used slightly better quality connectors for the indicators. Here's my tail wiring:

[suzyj]

So the loom is basically complete - there's still a couple of bugs to iron out but they should be fairly straightforward - for example my power distribution board won't allow my headlight to turn on because of the high inrush current - I'm thinking that rather than just blithly increasing the current limit, I'll add circuitry in the headlight housing to soft-start it, prolonging the life of the headlight globe.

The last thing I did for the loom was a "test fit" of pretty-much everything - the battery, coils, rectifier/regulator, airbox, tank, seat etc. I even put the (empty) heads back on, so I could see how the various bits fit and how the wiring routes best.

Then I turned it on and tried stuff - indicators, horn, lights (see above), etc. The gauges sweep and the oil light comes on, as well as the check engine light. The bike has no oil in it yet, so this sort of thing is to be expected. I'll progressively tick stuff off as I get the rest of the parts. While it was together I took a bunch of photos, as I reckon it looks kinda cool like this.

Firstly from the rear, showing my tail chop with homebrew licence plate bracket and sexy Rizoma indicators:



The right side, showing just one!!! wire crossing the horizontal belt cover. I rerouted the starter lead on the other side, and brought the oil pressure line up the back.



The left side - more wiring here. The cable ties are temporary - once I get a stash of the little saddle thingies, they'll be hidden behind the frame.



Here's one under the tail, showing the absence of rectifier and coil:



Quite a bit of wire never made it back on the bike:



Here's me making the most of the bike looking like a bike again, and sitting on it making "vroom vroom" noises while wearing appropriate footwear:



Turns out I'm not the only one who does that. My faithful workshop cat also likes sitting on my bike:

[Slide Panda]

No bare feet in the shop!

As always - impressive work. I wish I had your skills. My 900 could probably well do for some electrical modernization.

[JohnEE]

A monster clean enough to eat off of! Great work.

[Stormtrooper]

Just discovered this thread and read it front to back.  I feel emasculated in the knowledge that my moto-tinkering skills are feeble and weak in comparison...I bow down to your skills Suzy .  

Awesome, SIMPLY AWESOME attention to detail and creativity.  Great work dude, uhhh, I mean dudette!  

[suzyj]

Rolled it outside this morning to take some better photos of the loom.

Still a fair bit of work to do - the heads have no valves or cams in them at present, so they have to be done, plus obviously the exhaust has to go back on.

But it looks quite a lot cleaner than when I started.

First from the left. At the bottom I've braided all the cabling - sidestand sensor, O2 sensor (even though I've asked Brad to disable it in my ECU, I'll keep the physical wiring), crank sensor, and starter +ve connection all run up the front left side of the motor in a bundle. The original spark plug leads were the wrong length to reach my relocated coils, so I went with NGK racing leads (with resistors). Doesn't hurt that they're red Without the side covers and coil bracketry in the way, you get a nice view of the rear shock.



Here's a better view of my fancy superbike shock.



The view from the other side. Now that I've chopped my tail, I think the hugger looks enormous. Anyway, the only wire crossing the horizontal belt cover is the oil pressure sensor. The oil temp sensor goes backwards and joins the loom along with the neutral wire, rear brake switch and speed sensor wiring. The starter +ve goes across the other side. You can also see the braided undle going forward to the instruments and controls in the usual position. I need to shorten my throttle and throttle advance cables.



The front end, showing not much in the way of visible cables. I like my teensy new Rizoma indicators.



When I take the seat off you can see how the cabling is done back to the taillight. I removed the five pin connector and incorporated the tail wiring into the main harness. Also hiding in the harness back here is the little Rizoma constant current cicuit to supply 300mA to my indicators rather than 12V.



When I lift the tank you can see where most of the work went on my loom. Here's the battery, coils, ECU, power distribution circuit, master 30A fuse, and Shindengen MOSFET rectifier/regulator. The wiring here is a little crowded, but reasonably tidy. If you look carefully, you'll note the coils ended up at an interesting angle. This is to get around a clearance issue with the fuel pump section of the tank.



The ECU side. I need to make a cover for the exposed wiring on the power distribution board. Here too is the only insulation tape on the whole loom. This junction was just way too complex to do with heatshrink.



The rectifier/regulator side. Again note the angle of the coils. Everything fits... Just. I've also chucked in a connector for my battery tender, so I don't have to lift the tank to put the bike on charge. Yes, I forgot to plug in one of the connectors for the rectifier/regulator.



And the whole bike with the tank lifted and seat off, just to provide some context.



All the loom works so far. I've tested all functions independently with the exception of the crank sensor, coils and injectors. Once I've thrown some oil in the motor and have bits in my head I'll do that. Fingers crossed it'll be running in a few weeks

[Raux]

with the huge difference in plug cable length will you need to retard/advance spark to match?

what kind of airflow will you be getting to cool your rectifier?

hugger...

[suzyj]

I'm not sure the difference will equate to a significant time.

Oh, and that hugger looks perfect.